Auto-Sleeper Warwick Duo Modifications 2017+

Hello,
           Thanks for your posts I've found them very useful. Could you possibly tell me the name of the interior light or the seller's name as I'm having trouble finding it. Many thanks , Paul.

You cotton on quickly!

Do you mean this one ? 
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I have not tried to take the old one out yet the plan is to replace the one by the loo door that catches on the light. 

Many thanks for the light info.

Dbvwt wrote:
3- any other suggestions for another light to replace the thin existing one

We use a battery powered LED light of the type that you push the centre of the unit to turn it on and off (this is not touch sensitive, you are operating a micro-switch). The unit contains three AAA batteries and it is secured to the toilet room ceiling with Velcro. In 4 years use, we have not had to change the batteries and the light output at night is not too bright, perfect in fact for those short trips to the loo.

How about these PIR activated so do not even need to switch on 

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I would mount it with velcro.

Hi jennyandpeter

I have a 2014 Warwick Duo and I really like the mods you have been making to your van.
I agree with you that the rear curtain set up leaves a lot to be desired. I contacted AS service centre with a view to having the later model blinds system fitted to my van. Could not believe the price they quoted, talk about an arm and a leg! Anyway I still wanted the rear blinds and managed to find a set of second hand ones and fitted them with trim material to match the exiting interior. Thought you might like to see my efforts.[You must be registered and logged in to see this link.]

Very nice did you insulate the inside of the doors at the same time ? Something autosleeper forgets to do properly.

No I didn't put anymore insulation into the doors, perhaps will look at this at a later date.
According to AS my vehicle has the G3 insulation system installed.

See page 1 of this thread, I have been insulating each part as we get access

Our van has the same hopeless rear curtains. We bought the blinds (as in the photo) from AS complete with the black frame surround/mount plate (as per the Kemerton). The cost was eye-watering. 

Seven years later they are still sat in a box in the house waiting to be fitted, along with the remnant roll of 'Judy Olive' to finish it off. 

Nearly every trip we still moan about the curtains.......

Looking at a simpler solution to fit how about something like this [You must be registered and logged in to see this link.]

I just use internal insulated screens. They simply store between bench end and door.

The problem with all blinds in the rear door windows of the duo range is sitting up in bed and resting your head on the curtains.
If blinds this becomes much worse, at least the curtains are flexible!
We have 6 magnets, tiny things, 5mm dia x 5mm long and use these to hold the curtain material to the door window surrounds.
This keeps a lot of light out and the magnets don't car if you rest four head against the curtain.
A £2 solution to a £2 problem, not a £50 solution to a £2 problem!!!!

We use magnets as well but it would be good to have a bit more darkness ar 5 in the morning.

jennyandpeter wrote:Cleaning the van yesterday came across the scuttle drain problem. I removed about half a cupful of dirt at the end of the pipe behind the drivers side wheel arch liner. If only this drained down vertically it would not cause a problem, will be keeping an eye on it in future.

I noticed that the drain was blocked this weekend, but I can’t for the life of me work out how to unblock it.  To be honest, I shoved my head into the wheel arch and came back up with a mucky face but no idea of where the drain hole came out 

If you’ve any suggestions of how to unblock it, and/or photos of where it comes out and what I can use to clean it, that would be helpful.

Many thanks
Sally

Once blocked it is really difficult to unblock. A year or three ago mine was blocked. We have very high water pressure and I directed a hose down the pipe getting terrific blow back but very little crud. Eventually I resorted to poking very carefully with an unwound wire coathanger coupled with the hosepipe with no fitting. Eventually it did unblock. The outlet is quite difoficult to see as it is hidden behind the shock absorber/McPherson strut. Over winter I have had a length of pool liner under the wiper arms and trapped between bonnet and engine compartment to keep crud out of the gulley. I will put a bottle brush into the tube during the season.

inspiredron wrote:Once blocked it is really difficult to unblock. A year or three ago mine was blocked. We have very high water pressure and I directed a hose down the pipe getting terrific blow back but very little crud. Eventually I resorted to poking very carefully with an unwound wire coathanger coupled with the hosepipe with no fitting. Eventually it did unblock. The outlet is quite difoficult to see as it is hidden behind the shock absorber/McPherson strut. Over winter I have had a length of pool liner under the wiper arms and trapped between bonnet and engine compartment to keep crud out of the gulley. I will put a bottle brush into the tube during the season.

Thank you Ron - can I do any damage to the tube if I poke around carefully with a straightened coat hanger? I don’t know anything about the shape or position or material of the tube, so I just want to make sure.

Sally

P.S. apologies if I’ve taken this thread away from the mods done to the van.

If you remove the pipe from the bottom of the scuttle you can push it through with a stick. The bottom exit is behind the wheel arch liner but you can get your hand behind to clear it out.

I use a length of curtain wire (the hollow spiral type use for net curtains) and just poke it down the blocked drain. This is less likely to do damage than something very stiff, such as a wire coat hanger. A length of about two feet should be enough and as a precaution against loosing the wire down the drain tube, I put an eye in one end and this gives something to hold onto. A further refinement is to screw a round-headed screw of the same diameter as the curtain wire into the probe end and this acts as a streamliner to help the curtain wire go down the tube. The last bit of advice is to smear a bit of Fairy Liquid over the end of the wire to help it slide down the tube (this really does help).

Thank you everyone. Ill check it out at the weekend.

If you have, and you should have, a tyre compressor, it'll have come with all manner of ends for it.
Plug it in, shove the appropriate end into the drain, believe me it'll clear. Poking wires etc down there is a recipe for disaster,  use science!!

I’m IanH wrote:If you have, and you should have, a tyre compressor, it'll have come with all manner of ends for it.
Plug it in, shove the appropriate end into the drain, believe me it'll clear. Poking wires etc down there is a recipe for disaster,  use science!!

I have the Ring RAC900, which runs off the main battery. It came with a few bits and bobs, so I’m not sure which is best to use.

Is it okay to run it unconnected and unpressured, i.e. powered up but not connected to a tyre?