2002 Trident T4 cry for help.

Tinwheeler wrote:

FreelanderUK wrote:Question for anybody, if leisure battery is removed and ehu connected will the 12v side work, ie lights, pump, and 12v sockets

It depends. Some systems need the battery in place to complete the circuit, some don't. The handbook should explain and say whether damage will be caused by getting it wrong.

I have not personally checked but was always under the impression that the battery had to be in place and if so in the OP’s van that would indicate that all is good with wiring and fuses when EHU is connected

Poor earth connection leasure battery ?

Nigelbs wrote:Picking up our 2002 Tridrnt Friday and I will try to have a look for you. Also print the wiring diagram. However as others have said it looks like a failing battery - to really test need to completely disconnect the existing battery and connect new in place - not just connect the two in parallel.

Thank you. That would be really helpful.

Have you found the inline fuse adjacent to the leisure battery positive terminal?

Roopert wrote:Have you found the inline fuse adjacent to the leisure battery positive terminal?

do you have a photo?

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I have this little box here on the photo.
It say 26a 12v on the side. Any ideas of what this is. Might be the culprit?

Retirerehirelife wrote:
do you have a photo?

I've never owned a T4-based conversion. All I'm doing is describing how A/S generally arrange the wiring on this type/age of conversion. In my experience they always fit an inline fuse adjacent to the battery.

It's not easy to identify the component because it is upside-down, but at a guess I would suspect that it's a thermal circuit breaker. This is the equivalent of a fuse, but should be (if the guess is correct) self-resetting. I don't believe that A/S fitted fuses of that sort from the factory, so it has ~probably~ been modified by a previous owner. A (relatively) simple test would be to measure the voltage on either side of this component while you are experiencing the problems.

However, I would also want to trace all three (?) cables that appear to be connected to the battery positive, to see where they go.

Roopert wrote:

Retirerehirelife wrote:
do you have a photo?

I've never owned a T4-based conversion. All I'm doing is describing how A/S generally arrange the wiring on this type/age of conversion. In my experience they always fit an inline fuse adjacent to the battery.

It's not easy to identify the component because it is upside-down, but at a guess I would suspect that it's a thermal circuit breaker. This is the equivalent of a fuse, but should be (if the guess is correct) self-resetting. I don't believe that A/S fitted fuses of that sort from the factory, so it has ~probably~ been modified by a previous owner. A (relatively) simple test would be to measure the voltage on either side of this component while you are experiencing the problems.


However, I would also want to trace all three (?) cables that appear to be connected to the battery positive, to see where they go.

There is nothing on the other side its blank.

So... where do the cables go?

If you can confirm that that is the main feed to the appliances, I would be tempted to substitute in a conventional fuse instead of the unknown device and see if that changes things. That would be a fairly simple trial-and-error approach.

To my eyes it looks like the 20A version of this (which is probably a Chinese copy of something made by a European or US manufacturer of a few years back):

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But of course I should add that just because it is visually similar does not mean that is necessarily the same component...

Simply bypass it just to test out, then that discounts it

Roopert wrote:So... where do the cables go?

If you can confirm that that is the main feed to the appliances, I would be tempted to substitute in a conventional fuse instead of the unknown device and see if that changes things. That would be a fairly simple trial-and-error approach.

To my eyes it looks like the 20A version of this (which is probably a Chinese copy of something made by a European or US manufacturer of a few years back):

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But of course I should add that just because it is visually similar does not mean that is necessarily the same component...

Thank you for the continued help. 
I don't have any tools or equipment to do anything, as I am on holiday in Scotland in Inverness.
there is only a handful of listed services here and they are all booked up solid. I am more hopeful of finding someone in the Edinburgh area when we eventually get there next weekend. Everything is fully functioning on EHU so we are booked at campsites until then.

FreelanderUK wrote:Simply bypass it just to test out, then that discounts it

I was going to suggest that but... the wiring has obviously been modified and it worries me a bit that the thermal circuit breaker is actually doing its job and there is something taking too much current somewhere. As it may be the only overcurrent protection in the circuit, I wouldn't recommend bypassing it, just in case!

I was thinking of suggesting simply winding 10A fuse wire around the terminals but... I won't, because then it would necessary to add other words of caution...

Thank you for all the comments everyone.
We gave up on the issue and we are staying at campsites now until we get home. I have booked it into an auto electrician as I am not confident with electrics and dont want my campervan to catch fire as a result of a DIY job.
Its booked in for the 2nd June, so I’ll let everyone know how I get on.
Ive asked the electrician to look at upgrading the battery issue too.
See if there is room to remove the metal battery surround and go for a dual battery option.

Regards Bob.

SOLVED. For reference.
I took the Trident to an auto electrician this morning and he found the problem in 10mins.
It was a the relay box for the habitation under the bonnet of the T4.
The relays were working ok, but there was some corrosion on one of the slots on the relay box.
The box was changed out with new fuses and relays and everything now works fine. I also had the vans electrics fully checked and tested while there. Also new waterproof fuses fitted to the pump and heater as they were cheap and nasty. EHU fully checked and tested too.
It was just over £114. The chap was recommended by my fab VW service garage where I go. I rang them about the issue and they told me to ring this guy as they use him for all their electrical problems.
Yes he was great and knew his stuff.

I hope this helps others.
Regards Bob.

Thanks for the update - the relays at the front on ours are a bit exposed (to rain/roadspray coming in through the radiator while you're driving in the rain).

When I last made a change (swapping out the split charge relay for a VSR) I had a good look and didn't like the state of the (then) 15 year old crimped connections, so I replaced the connectors and soldered them. £114 sounds pretty reasonable for that amount of work.