Leaky Tap HELP

Hello, I'm the Leaky Tap guy getting more desperate! (cartridge replaced)

AS sent me a newer tap which is entirely wrong (it was a gambol).

The tap on my 2006 Symbol kitchen has a 12mm threaded stud/nut, and two tails. the system is pressure sensitive.

I am some 40 miles from the nearest service and contacting them produced a fairly negative response Quote " the last one we did we had to partly dismantle the kitchen, there are dozens of different types"

I feel confident I could replace a 'like for like' assembly but so far I can't find a replacement, can anyone offer advice on this, I am supposed to be going away in a couple of weeks.

Thanks
David

Can you post a picture of the tap? Will ease identification.

Just looked at a2005 Symbol and a 2006 Symbol on EBay and they have different taps so a photo would be good for identification. Meanwhile I'll look for both patterns.

David
You should be able to identify a matching tap from illustrations given by the accessory dealers. Try Marcle Leisure, or Leisureshop Direct, or CAK Tanks.
If your nearest dealer had to "partly dismantle the kitchen", he may not have considered alternative approaches. Try a little lateral thinking , as deBono once said !
I released a tap in a Topaz by cutting both supply pipes about 12 inches below the tap, from the outside,  through the fridge vent. Pulled them up with the tap, did the tap swop and then fed the pipes back and joined the cut ends with "push-fit straight connectors".
Desperation wonderfully focuses the mind !
Keith

I changed my kitchen tap, bought one from Leisureshop direct, just bought  a motorhome sink tap, it is chrome whereas the original one was gold , had no choice couldn`t get a gold, it works fine.

I had to take out the sink, just four screws, disconnect the waste pipe, could then easily get to the taps and pipes. my system is pump pressure not pressure taps, the only difference is there are two wires to connect with a pressure switch in the taps. a lot of taps will work with both systems. just do not connect the wires if not needed.

PARTIAL SUCCESS!
The 'Boss' tells me the extra length of the new tap (Comet) is not a problem.
Which leaves me with my final problem.
The new tap fittings are ok but I have to remove the tails to lift out the old tap unit.
The brass nut locking in the tails to the tap is integral to the tail, ie when I turn the nut the tail rotates as well, so I have to separate the tails from the Red and Blue semi-rigid pipes of the internal system. I cannot see how to do this.
Can anyone explain the procedure. I intend to use the old tails as they are the right length and the new tails have a totally different fitting.
I have an excellent photo of the fitting but I cannot see a way of sending/attaching it on this
forum.
Thanks again 
David

Hi David,

I used my old tails as the new were a different size, I used two tools, a spanner and small pliers, probably unconventional,  and undid the nut , although I did remove completely then found I couldn`t fit the new tails. 

I did find it hard as I have arthritis in my hands, but I was determined they were coming off, took me two hours, so I had to fit the new at the tap end first before the water pipes end, make sure you get the red pipe to the correct side of tap, otherwise you will have hot water out of the cold tap.

 Check for leaks before putting the sink back, I put silicone round the base of the tap, next day trimmed off the excess. 
Good luck you will get there. you will have more strength than I have so will not take so long.

Hi David, without seeing exactly what you have the only thing I can say is normally semi rigid pipe uses a push fit system and a fitting that converts from push fit at one end to your tap tail connector at the other end . There is normally a ring at the semi rigid pipe end of the fitting that if pushed towards the fitting with one hand finger and thumb while pulling away the pipe with the other hand releases the fitting . Its easier to do than explain in words! To reconnect , clean up end of pipe and if in good condition just push in to fit.A photo would help but I too have not sussed out how to do it yet! Best of luck..

Hi David, without seeing exactly what you have the only thing I can say is normally semi rigid pipe uses a push fit system and a fitting that converts from push fit at one end to your tap tail connector at the other end . There is normally a ring at the semi rigid pipe end of the fitting that if pushed towards the fitting with one hand finger and thumb while pulling away the pipe with the other hand releases the fitting . Its easier to do than explain in words! To reconnect , clean up end of pipe and if in good condition just push in to fit.A photo would help but I too have not sussed out how to do it yet! Best of luck..

As for posting photos, ....



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Success!, many thanks for the replies.
You have all been extremely helpful with your responses.
Kaspian gave me the final clue, thanks.
I am glad my system avoided the need to remove the sink as per Daisy Mae, I wouldn't fancy even my simpler job with arthritis as it was awkward getting two arms into the larder!
As a newcomer to this forum I have been pleasantly surprised by the advice offered.
Kind regards
David

Well done, all a learning curve, I did have plenty of room after I took the sink out easier than not.

You'll find that this tap on eBay is virtually identical to the one supplied by Autosleeper -

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All for the princely sum of £6.99 plus £1.50 for postage.

On our Warwick Duo it is difficult, but not impossible, to access the threaded rod to release the tap through the fridge vent and has to be done by feel, as you can't see it. But once the nut is free of the threaded rod the tap be pulled up an inch or two from the worktop and the flexible hoses can be unscrewed. Just make sure that the hoses don't drop back through the hole before you've connected them to the new tap.

I replaced ours which was leaking around the swivel. The leak wasn't coming from the cartridge but from a large O ring at the swivel joint. 

Roly