Advice please - again.

Hello Folks.
We were away last week and decided (stupidly in hindsight it seems) to bake a couple of potatoes in the gas oven at Mark 6 for an hour. The result was 2 very nice baked pots, 2 pints of curdled milk, smelly bacon and melting butter.
Does anyone know if there is such a thing as a heat deflector that I can insert between oven and fridge or should I revert to plan A and not do that again?
Very many thanks
Allan.

Confused…. don’t think oven is next to fridge on an xl ??? or have they changed configuration for 2023.

Even 2024 layout still has fridge and oven separated...

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Sounds like fridge either not switched on or not working properly.insidenif fridge is well insulated, when fridge is working hard can feel heat at top vent outside,or on worktop and side of panel between fridge and nearside fridge in WXL

Paul's photo is quite right inasmuch that the fridge and oven are separated by a cupboard. May well be the fridge not working correctly as pointed out by Bilbobaggins.
I will revisit that point.
Thank you.

From experience the main reason fridge can run hot and not work efficiently  occurs when van not level.
Fitting a fan can considerably increase efficiency of fridge in warm conditions but that’s another topic.

Another possible explanation is that the winter vent shields are still in place. They are clipped to the outside vents of the fridge, for use in cold weather. Unlike the louvered fridge vents, the covers look similarly louvered but all but one or two of the apparent louvres on the cover are in fact filled in, to prevent excessive cold-air ventilation. Must be removed in Spring. 

Cymro

Does the sliding door on the XL cover the vents when it’s open? Just a thought.

Just a thought, but was the fridge also running on gas? Maybe having the Oven on gas for that amount of time could have starved the supply of gas to the fridge?

The fridge issue and the cooker are not connected, it is just an unhappy coincidence.  I have a Warwick XL which had a 3 way fridge fitted, it was absolute junk, the slightest slope on the van it would not chill, it went back to the dealers twice for checking, in the end they told me I have to be within 2 degrees for it to function correctly which indeed it did.

However, I am not in the group of obsessives that you often see at C&MC sites, using spirit levels, phone apps etc wasting hours getting their unit absolutely level, probably to get their fridge to work.   As long as my head is higher than my feet and my beer doesn't slide off the table I'm content.  I sold the 3 way fridge and replaced it with a compressor type, it is probably the best modification I have had done. I now get cold beer, fresh bacon and solid butter and don't have to faff over getting the van absolutely level.

Tinny is quite correct, when the side door is open you are restricting air flow to the vents, another design flaw!  Cymro has also made a good point regarding the winter vents.

Hopefully when they designed the gas system they took into account the gas flow with all appliances running, your milk shouldn't curdle in an hour.

The side door is most certainly an issue with restricting vent to fridge (on Warwick xl)if wide open particularly in warm weather. Made worse if running on gas as the gas flue outlet is in the space behind grills which builds up heat. I never leave my side door fully open but wedge it to leave some grill uncovered. I have also fitted fan behind top grill to extract controlled by thermostatic switch (available as a complete kit) which has made a significant improvement to fridge efficiency.

I don’t have anything negative to say about the fridges, mine works really well even with the vents inside an unbearably hot awning, and the door covering the vents, very rarely do I have it set above 3 led’s on the display. I find it works even better on gas, freezing the food in the fridge compartment after a few days or anything above two leds.

Assuming the vents aren’t blocked I would suggest something isn’t right?