Kemerton XL internal modification

Hi, Has anybody had any experience of removing the internal side panel shown in the attached picture please? I wanted ideally to improve the insulation between the window and panel and also add a USB socket next to the existing mains socket. I was hoping it could be removed without taking out the overhead storage.[You must be registered and logged in to see this link.]

Thanks

Ours has had additional sockets fitted in that panel but done by the previous owner. I’ve looked closely at the panel but can’t see how to remove it without disassembling the cabinetry, and possibly not just the overhead lockers. Maybe he had AS do them during the build process. 

Glyne Lock has fitted additional sockets in the wooden panel above the sliding door, see thread at the link below.

Tim

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Filbert
good luck removing the panel and everything else to get the panel off
what was your power feed going to come from for the usb

some A/S campers have a socket to the left of the spot light by the side door looking down
if you take that panel down you can put more insulation as per my pictures on my post kemerton xl improvement post and will make the extra wiring a better job
the area above the fridge needs to stay fully sealed as its the vent area for fridge so is a no 
above the seat belt is steel so i would say no 
extra insulation can be put behind the panel that has the tv socket on your camper if you ever  remove that

Our 2019 EC700 LCD panel left little room to fit a Berker combined aerial and 12V socket on the panel above the sliding door. With Glyne's support through ASOF I routed an aerial coax and 12V supply from a satellite feed (which we didn't have anyway) from across the roof lining into this area. This a tough DIY project in my opinion.

In our Kemerton XL I haven't found a need to fit a USB charging socket above the fridge. On EHU we have the standard mains socket and off EHU the 12V socket that I referred to.

Picking up a 12V supply at this location is awkward. I explored this when wondering if I could supply a 12V supply to the fridge and toilet flush pump, to be independent of the Sargent EC700 and its standing current drain. There is a 12V supply going to the retractable step but that's as far as i went.

If on ECU you could add a mains powered socket next to the existing mains socket on this panel, assuming you can easily remove this panel to gain access.

What is a very useful alternative is to fit the Berker USB mod that Glyne fitted which I recommend as I also fitted one.

From Monday June 6th 2022, Glyne's post -
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Hi Relaxez-vous,

Thanks for your useful comments. We very rarely use electric hookup and find charging phones and ipads etc. a bit tight for space around the sink area and would like to make better use the worktop area opposite. We also use USB for charging our fans and fly zappers during the better weather.

Cheers

The worktop above the fridge is a good location for charging devices, if only you have the outlets to do so when off grid. You could consider mounting them on the underside of the overhead lockers, adjacent to the speaker, and fitting a false bottom inside the locker to hide the backs of the sockets and the cabling. Not ideal, but a better option than fighting to remove the rear panel.

Tim

Thinking further about this. If I were doing the install I’d locate the sockets in the outer face of the wardrobe side panel and fit a cover inside the wardrobe to conceal the rear of the sockets. The wardrobe and the drawers beneath it offer a good cable route, floor to ceiling, however I would look to run cable from the other side of the van under the steel floor rather than through the ceiling. I would get my 12V feed direct from the leisure battery, via a new dedicated fuse, and choose a route underneath the van using flexible conduit to protect the cable. That strikes me as easier than fishing cable from the existing TV point through the ceiling and into the top of a locker or the wardrobe. Those curved top panels will be just as difficult to access as the side panel you were looking at originally. Running a new feed would also provide more confidence in the fusing.

Tim

Hi Tim,
I do like the idea of mounting USB socket on side of wardrobe and routing cable under the floor. I’ll take a look and see if there are any existing through floor holes that I can exploit for the cable feed!

Thanks