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Cracked Shower Room Plastic Window Trim

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Cracked Shower Room Plastic Window Trim Empty Cracked Shower Room Plastic Window Trim

Post by Henrettas Dad Wed Jun 13, 2012 2:54 pm

Has anyone any information on the company Cirencester Plastics (the web address no longer works) who apparantly made the moulded plastic internal window surround on my 2006 Symbol ES for Auto-sleeper. Mine has a spreading crack starting from the window seal edge about 50mm down the trim, getting worse as travelling vibration is now causing it to flex. I'm hoping they may still have some as Auto-sleeper no longer have replacement parts (strange considering how many Symbols of this shape were made and how filmsy the plastic is) and a repair with TradeWeld White will stick out like a sore thumb, as after only 20k and 6 years all the white plastic in the shower room has yellowed.
Or does anyone know anywhere who might have any (have tried O'leary's)
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Post by Paulmold Wed Jun 13, 2012 4:05 pm

Have you tried their phone number 01285 655995 or fax number 01285 885243?
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Post by Henrettas Dad Fri Jun 15, 2012 3:18 pm

Getting number not recognised, I have the feeling they may have stopped trading.
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Post by Admin Fri Jun 15, 2012 6:06 pm

Hello Henrettas Dad

I understand Cirencester Plastics is no longer in operation, this link may be of interest as they have been discussed on the forum in the past.

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Post by p groombridge Thu Aug 23, 2012 12:39 pm

Hello

I was wondering if you managed to solve your cracked window problem. If not, I just might be able to point you in the right direction.

I have just posted a new query re cracked bathroom windows - see my message dated 23 Aug.

In my note I mentioned a firm called EECO........... perhaps they can help you. THeir number is 01274 679524 they are based in Halifax

Good luck, P
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Post by Dutto Thu Aug 23, 2012 1:12 pm

Hi there,

As a "fix it" for almost all rigid plastics I use heavy-duty Araldite.

It dries clear and often has better strength than the thing it is attached to. (I advise you to try the tubes that you buy as some of the Araldite range sets opaque white.)

I usually scratch a small groove along any crack so that the Araldite can achieve some "mass" at the top of the "V" and then dab it in with the end of a two-inch nail until it is slightly proud.

It is not that easy to use on sloping or vertical surfaces as it will "run" for a few hours after mixing. However, judicious use of insulation tape will usually keep it in place and any excess can be shaved off with a sharp Stanley blade between ten and twelve hours after mixing.

The product is cured hard after 24 hours and is then not too easy to shape, scrape etc.

Hope this helps.

Best regards,
drinksallround

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Post by Henrettas Dad Thu Aug 23, 2012 4:33 pm

p groombridge wrote:Hello

I was wondering if you managed to solve your cracked window problem. If not, I just might be able to point you in the right direction.

I have just posted a new query re cracked bathroom windows - see my message dated 23 Aug.

In my note I mentioned a firm called EECO........... perhaps they can help you. THeir number is 01274 679524 they are based in Halifax

Good luck, P

Had no success in getting a replacement surround from Autosleeper and tried everywhere I could find online, appear to be as rare as hen's teeth, annoying as Van is only 6 years old and loads of this type of Symbol were made.
In the end used Tradeweld White to repair it, it dries solid in about 20 minutes (depending on temperature), Vee out the crack both sides and dont overfill to much on face side, you can build up and spread on unseen side to give srength (a bit of glassfibre mat pressed in on the back makes it stonger) then a little light sanding with a very fine paper on the face side to flat it down (try not to take to much gloss off plastic), then a polish with a plastic window refresher gives a resonably aceptable finish.
Just a note about Tradeweld it is a twin pack adhesive, which mixes in the removable outlet tube, if you want to mix more after you need spare outlet tube(s) as it sets hard in tube, which cannot be cleaned.
When I took the surround out to fix it I noticed it had been fitted originally with the screws straight through the plastic into the support frame (no pilot holes) which left no tolerance for expansion/contraction or vehical body movement I think this created stress in the plastic and subsiquently the crack. So it's not a bad idea to drill the original holes out a little before refixing.

Hope this helps anyone else.
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