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Fitting New Water Inlet

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Fitting New Water Inlet Empty Fitting New Water Inlet

Post by Carver Sun Apr 28, 2019 5:20 pm

Hi all,
The water inlet fixture on our 15 year old Symbol is showing it's age, so I have bought a new one.
It comes with a thin sponge type gasket, but I was wondering if any one else had used any other sealer (silicon etc) to prevent water ingress when doing a similar job.  
I am also changing the 240v mains inlet to smarten things up so the same question applies there.

Thanks for your advice,

Carver
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Fitting New Water Inlet Empty Re: Fitting New Water Inlet

Post by Peter Brown Sun Apr 28, 2019 7:31 pm

[You must be registered and logged in to see this link.]

Sikaflex 512 (white) is what you want.
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Fitting New Water Inlet Empty Re: Fitting New Water Inlet

Post by Carver Sun Apr 28, 2019 9:44 pm

Thanks Peter
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Fitting New Water Inlet Empty Re: Fitting New Water Inlet

Post by Roopert Mon Apr 29, 2019 1:30 am

The one caveat I would add - if you ever have to get either the mains connector or the water inlet off again, it may be better to use a non-setting sealant, because it's a real pain to do if the sealant is a strong one! Butyl rubber tape might be a better option from that point of view.

We've already had one try at replacing our water inlet on the Trooper (because we don't have the key) and we had to concede defeat, temporarily...
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Post by Carver Mon Apr 29, 2019 10:45 am

Thanks for that Roopert.
That potential issue had crossed my mind and although it's unlikely that I would want to change them again during our ownership, one never knows.......
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Post by Peter Brown Mon Apr 29, 2019 4:32 pm

Roopert wrote:The one caveat I would add - if you ever have to get either the mains connector or the water inlet off again, it may be better to use a non-setting sealant, because it's a real pain to do if the sealant is a strong one! Butyl rubber tape might be a better option from that point of view.

We've already had one try at replacing our water inlet on the Trooper (because we don't have the key) and we had to concede defeat, temporarily...

I can only speak from personal experience that I find it easier to cut through a set Sikaflex 512 joint and then peel off the residue than heat up a non-set sealant to remove the component and then find a solvent to dissolve the residue.
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Post by Roopert Mon Apr 29, 2019 5:47 pm

The problem (unsolved, to date) on ours is that the flange is very tight to the bodywork, so it's very difficult to come up with something strong and rigid enough to slide in between, and sharp enough to cut through the sealant, which will not damage the paintwork.
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Post by Peter Brown Mon Apr 29, 2019 6:36 pm

I use a 'putty knife' [You must be registered and logged in to see this link.] - mine is similar to that at the link but circa 45 years old and well honed.
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Post by Roopert Mon Apr 29, 2019 10:18 pm

Thanks - I just need to be a bit braver and whack something like that in there. Unfortunately the construction of the Trooper is such that it's a bit of a pain to get to the back of the filler as well.
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Post by Carver Tue Apr 30, 2019 11:39 am

Peter,
Thanks again for your advice / experience.
My new electrical and water inlets have foam type gaskets supplied.  Would you use the Sika in addition to these or instead of ?
Thanks
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Post by Peter Brown Tue Apr 30, 2019 12:39 pm

No, I would make sure all surfaces are clean then use the gaskets.
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Post by Carver Tue Apr 30, 2019 2:57 pm

Thanks Peter,
I have now fitted both water and mains inlets using the supplied gaskets.  
Roopert, - I too had a little difficulty removing the old fittings, but a thin bladed flexible knife did the trick.  I put some masking tape on the paintwork around the area to protect it from inadvertent slips  up!

Thanks both.
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