Veba rear view camera, Warwick Duo

There are lots of discussions on these and our system is like the others. We have a 2012 Warwick Duo. The screen is blue and says no signal. Using the tips on the forum I have checked the connections at the driver door and in the head lining at the front. Makes no difference. Occasionally it did come on, sometimes in monochrome. Now it is staying blue. 
What solutions have members used to fix or replace this Veba kit? I want a rear view camera, it’s one of the reasons we bought this van. Our warranty is a spit in the wind and the dealer is a lying cheat so no point in going down that route. Whatever we will have to pay. Anyone used a wireless system? Are they any good or a bit like WiFi, flaky.

One factor to consider is that the cable from front to the camera at the back is bespoke to the Veba system. It includes near the rear a capsule that I suspect contains active circuitry that I think my include a 12v - 5v converter - I've not been able to test this theory. In any event, wireless would save replacing that cable. Auto-sleepers have been using a Garmin wireless system for a few years now and I've not read many complaints about it on the forum.

I too have a 2011 warwick duo and my (essential) reversing camera is failing. It initially looked like fog or road dirt on the lens but it has got progressively worse to the point where I can't see the towbar, my reference point of backing up to a fence or wall.
Tried heating it gently, no result. Got into the connector in the OS door well, disconnected then refitted, no result
I am poss 75% sure its not the monitor, all the distance graduations are there and it tells me its VGA.
Does anyone know of a source of these cameras, I have no desire to run new wiring to a different one the length of the vehicle?
Thanks in advance
Ian

Ian

Apart from the connector in the door well that you memtion, there are at least two others.

1) About halfway from the mirror to the edge of the windscreen (tucked behind the windscreen trim).

2) Behind the trim next to the throttle (held by 2 or 3 screws) it is the bit of trim that the wires go behind when you are looking at the door well wires).

Just possibly a loose connection in one of those places could be your problem.

Spospe wrote:Ian

Apart from the connector in the door well that you memtion, there are at least two others.

1) About halfway from the mirror to the edge of the windscreen (tucked behind the windscreen trim).

2) Behind the trim next to the throttle (held by 2 or 3 screws) it is the bit of trim that the wires go behind when you are looking at the door well wires).

Just possibly a loose connection in one of those places could be your problem.

Thanks so much Spose
Unfortunately done all of those, IMHO the camera is dying
Bw
Ian

Ian, very likely that moisture has gotten into the camera assembly and the only real remedy is replacement. Trick is to find who made or supplied the original. I have gone through 3 cameras on our current car in 2 years and the dealer assures me the latest is now fully waterproof! 
    I fitted a camera and monitor from e bay on our first motorhome and picture quality was fantastic . Never suffered any water ingress either in over 7 yesrs  so you dont have to pay silly prices to get good quality. I had a second camera on a roving lead and home made magnetic mount . As I had to reverse it up a driveway with 2 inches to spare either side between house and wall with mirrors folded in so 'blind'  , it was invaluable to stick the camera  on the front wing facing back  to judge clearance down one side!

Thanks K
My opinion too. I did my own diy fit on the previous MH and had zero probs! Even had a fwd facing on on the pax mirror to assist with overtaking abroad.
Prob here is that the only practical solution is an exact replacement, think I'll call AS and see if I can get a part number, or even just give up and let them replace it!
Thanks
Ian

Had similar issue on the Kemerton it turned out to be the camera that had failed.

Purchased a new one from DRW Electronics, CAM-14 £29.99. (CAM-14@cameras.drwelectronics.com)

Accessed the camera fixing by removing the high level stop light and the head lining around the doors.

I cut the cable from the old camera and removed it, cut the cable on the new camera and fitted it, then connected the cables using connectors and all worked fine.

Bit fiddly accessing the fixing nut to the rear of the camera and used a long box spanner slid over the cut cables to undo and tighten. Be careful not to over tighten the nut as the hollow bolt is only plastic.

Hope this helps and good luck.

Dave

Thanks Dave
IanH

Thanks to all re the above. Using Dave's link I bought the new, identical, camera and today fitted it.
Now, not bragging but I have a well equipped workshop and many tools, all were needed today.
Just getting to the camera is very difficult, even to see behind it, removed the upper brake light, also the door seals, and locks to rear doors. Even then had to cut some foam behind the headlining to even see the camera fastener!
Used a boroscope camera linked to my laptop in the hope of finding a connector to plug the new camera into.......didn't work!
Eventually took the plunge and cut the wire to the existing camera and, using a tool to undo the nut.
This was a length of plastic pipe, with a deep socket glued inside it, this having a clear path for the wiring for the new one. Lucking have nimble and capable wife to work through the brakelight cavity.
Got the old one out.
Spliced the existing wiring into the extension cable supplied with the new camera, and tested, two or 3 changes, then it worked! Hallelujah!!
Finished off the wiring splicing with inline crimps, having first installed the new camera with my tool, as above
The rest was easy, re-instating the trim and door locks etc.
I will say it was possible but, if you're not as well equipped as I am fortunate to be, then its an AS job IMHO

Well done Ian, glad all went fairly smoothly.

Dave.

Hi Timedout, 
Did you manage to sort your's out? My system has very similar symptoms to yours - blue screen or blank screen or suddenly working perfectly for a while then blank screen for ages. I find it hard to believe it is the actual camera when it does work absolutely perfectly periodically. Does anybody know where the power supply actually comes from ? Where is the gadget , possibly a voltage converter, mentioned by Peter ? Thanks  in advance. 
p.s. since I'm away for a few weeks I have unclipped the monitor and cable tied it to my sun visor. At least I can use the normal mirror to check for cars etc when reversing.I have checked the connectors in front headlining and doorwell.
Tim

Tim.
I did not manage to resolve it but made it slightly less unreliable. I bought some electrical contact cleaner spray. I can’t be certain but I think it is just MEK, an old fashioned industrial solvent cleaner an degreaser we used to use back in the 70s. By cleaning the contacts in the two accessible connectors in the headlining and by the driver’s right foot several times it became more reliable. At the moment it is more than 50% reliable. The strange pattern of green and yellow lines comes and goes but at least I have a picture some of the time. Like you I think both the camera and the screen work and it is poor connections in the chain that are causing voltage drop. It may even be as simple as a bad earth. Remember British cars and motorcycles from the 60s, crap electric systems and many faults were just a bad earth.
 So far I have no built up the courage to rip out the lining over the rear door to get to the concealed connector. Shame on AS for bad practice. All electrical connections should be accessible, it’s the rule for electrical work in buildings, as set out in the IET standards.

Thanks T , 
I think mine is better than before after cleaning those two connectors (tiny little pins aren't they?) but still only about 30% reliable. I would love to check the power supply and earth if I can find them! I'm actually away in the van for a few weeks and didn't bring torx and Allen 'sockets' with me, so will only disassemble behind the camera when I know for sure there is more than a camera wire that has to be cut behind there.Can anyone advise? Thanks.

I cleaned those little pins and sockets three times over. The first attempt produced no response. I have a theory that making sure the earth is good and replacing the silly plugs with soldered joints will solve it.

Yes,  I think you're probably right. The plugs and sockets are very snug fits, but were taped together from new by AS which could be a hint.