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Air in fresh water tank

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Air in fresh water tank Empty Air in fresh water tank

Post by rgermain Mon Oct 15, 2018 11:03 am

Having had some work done to seal the shower tray by the bench toilet, due to shower water escaping out onto the floor, I have found that when I turn on the hot or cold tap you get a rather large amount of air spurting out before the water flow. This happens after leaving the van standing for a couple of days in the driveway. The pump does not prime when no water demand, which I assume means no water leak etc.

Don't think I noticed it before the work, but in any case I would think the dealer would say " nothing to do with us", which I would think is correct as they only raised the bench toilet to see what was going on and resealed it.

Just wondering if any other member has had such air in the system for no apparent reason?

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Post by Gromit Mon Oct 15, 2018 11:27 am

Hi Richard

It sounds to me that you might have a leak, though perhaps not one involving an escape of any water.

Sounds like a non return valve has failed, allowing the water in your pipes to fall down to the same level as the tank - i.e. to all intents and purposes you have empty pipes.

I wasn't aware that there is a non return valve, but thinking about it now, there must be or everyone would get your symptoms all the time.

Mark at A/S Service Centre will know.
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Post by AutoSleepy_Don Mon Oct 15, 2018 12:56 pm

I just been out to my Warwick Duo. Not used for a week but 50% fresh water level.
After I switched the pump on, water came immediately from the bathroom taps and shower.
Only time I get the air phase is after the first fill after winter drain down.

You dont say which pump you have. On the standard fitment whale submersible (that I have) there is a non return valve in the pressure switch. Mine failed and I replaced it last week. There was a further symptom in that the pump came on for a few seconds every 30 seconds.
I think the non return valve would affect all taps, not just the bathroom. Are you certain the kitchen taps are not affected?
(I think the Shurflo pumps have this valve built into the pump housing)
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Post by rgermain Mon Oct 15, 2018 1:27 pm

Thank you for the help so far.

I have a factory fitted standard Whale submersible pump, Shurflo as advised by Dave still sits in it's box waiting for me to fit it!. The kitchen taps are also affected.

I will have a look at the pressure/non return valve, not that I expect much can be done but to change it out, where can I get one please?

Thanks for advice, didn't think about a non return valve. Going out to the van right now to have a look.
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Post by AutoSleepy_Don Mon Oct 15, 2018 2:03 pm

I got mine from Amazon
[You must be registered and logged in to see this link.]

Actually once I got the old one off and cleaned it, it started working correctly again, so I may not have needed a new valve after all.
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Post by rgermain Mon Oct 15, 2018 3:52 pm

AutoSleepy_Don wrote:I got mine from Amazon
[You must be registered and logged in to see this link.]

Actually once I got the old one off and cleaned it, it started working correctly again, so I may not have needed a new valve after all.

Thank you. I have had a look at where the switch assembly is and due to us going away in the van for 4 nights this coming week, I have been told "leave alone till we get back" from my wife, she knows me and when I start taking screws out and springs start flying around we could be left with no water!. Also have yet to work out how to release the quick fitting pipe connectors, all a bit crammed down there in the Warwick, heater pipes etc.

Thanks for your help and will get on with it next week when home.
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Post by Gromit Mon Oct 15, 2018 4:02 pm

rgermain wrote:Also have yet to work out how to release the quick fitting pipe connectors, all a bit crammed down there in the Warwick, heater pipes etc.
Thanks for your help and will get on with it next week when home.
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Richard
I can help with that at least Richard, but it's difficult to explain.

Right next to the pipe as it enters the fitting there's a ring which must be pushed into the fitting. A thumb nail may do it, or the edge of a screwdriver if not. It hardly moves at all, so don't expect anything dramatic.

This releases the gripper and the pipe can be pulled out of the fitting. When you have done it once it will become quite obvious.
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Post by rgermain Mon Oct 15, 2018 4:16 pm

Gromit wrote:
rgermain wrote:Also have yet to work out how to release the quick fitting pipe connectors, all a bit crammed down there in the Warwick, heater pipes etc.
Thanks for your help and will get on with it next week when home.
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Richard
I can help with that at least Richard, but it's difficult to explain.

Right next to the pipe as it enters the fitting there's a ring which must be pushed into the fitting. A thumb nail may do it, or the edge of a screwdriver if not. It hardly moves at all, so don't expect anything dramatic.

This releases the gripper and the pipe can be pulled out of the fitting. When you have done it once it will become quite obvious.

Thank you, that makes it easy, so will give it a go.
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Post by AutoSleepy_Don Mon Oct 15, 2018 4:43 pm

rgermain wrote:
AutoSleepy_Don wrote:I got mine from Amazon
[You must be registered and logged in to see this link.]

Actually once I got the old one off and cleaned it, it started working correctly again, so I may not have needed a new valve after all.

Thank you. I have had a look at where the switch assembly is and due to us going away in the van for 4 nights this coming week, I have been told "leave alone till we get back" from my wife, she knows me and when I start taking screws out and springs start flying around we could be left with no water!. Also have yet to work out how to release the quick fitting pipe connectors, all a bit crammed down there in the Warwick, heater pipes etc.

Thanks for your help and will get on with it next week when home.
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Richard
Now I have done it once, I could do the whole thing in 15 minutes now but the first time was challenging. I am not a competent DIYer, just methodical and careful.
I'm pleased I did this myself.
If I can do it, anyone can.

I had 3 problems to overcome (Warwick Duo)

1) remove the cover that goes over the top of the TRUMA.
This step takes the most time. 6 self tapping screws. label the cover (top front) so you can refit the same way

2) remove one of the hot air pipes.
These unscrew from the hab side of the cupboard. Dont just pull (like I did for about 2 minutes).

3) disconnect the water pipe from the pressure switch
Push the collet back and that releases the clip. Dont try and force them apart. You need to know how to do this, I would never have guessed. I found a youtube video that explains a bit about how the clips work.  [You must be registered and logged in to see this link.]
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Post by rgermain Mon Oct 15, 2018 5:17 pm

AutoSleepy_Don wrote:
rgermain wrote:
AutoSleepy_Don wrote:I got mine from Amazon
[You must be registered and logged in to see this link.]

Actually once I got the old one off and cleaned it, it started working correctly again, so I may not have needed a new valve after all.

Thank you. I have had a look at where the switch assembly is and due to us going away in the van for 4 nights this coming week, I have been told "leave alone till we get back" from my wife, she knows me and when I start taking screws out and springs start flying around we could be left with no water!. Also have yet to work out how to release the quick fitting pipe connectors, all a bit crammed down there in the Warwick, heater pipes etc.

Thanks for your help and will get on with it next week when home.
----------
Richard
Now I have done it once, I could do the whole thing in 15 minutes now but the first time was challenging. I am not a competent DIYer, just methodical and careful.
I'm pleased I did this myself.
If I can do it, anyone can.

I had 3 problems to overcome (Warwick Duo)

1) remove the cover that goes over the top of the TRUMA.
This step takes the most time. 6 self tapping screws. label the cover (top front) so you can refit the same way

2) remove one of the hot air pipes.
These unscrew from the hab side of the cupboard. Dont just pull (like I did for about 2 minutes).

3) disconnect the water pipe from the pressure switch
Push the collet back and that releases the clip. Dont try and force them apart. You need to know how to do this, I would never have guessed. I found a youtube video that explains a bit about how the clips work.  [You must be registered and logged in to see this link.]

Thank you for the tips. If the cover is the metal one, that's the one I sliced my thumb on last year and ended up being taken to St Mary's walk in Clinic in Portsmouth to have it super glued or what ever they use!

Sounds like I could manage it, just that my wife say's I am like a bull in a china shop and need to think before I take things apart! shrugg

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Post by Toffee Mon Oct 15, 2018 5:29 pm

My van has always done this if it stands with the pump off, and if it’s driven between sites etc I don’t worry about it. I have a wale submersible pump and it works as expected. I wouldn’t go looking for problems.
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Post by rgermain Mon Oct 15, 2018 10:13 pm

Toffee wrote:My van has always done this if it stands with the pump off, and if it’s driven between sites etc I don’t worry about it. I have a wale submersible pump and it works as expected. I wouldn’t go looking for problems.

I do wonder if ours had done it before and one of those things not really noticed it. Just that I suppose I am suspect after it went into the dealers last week and they touched things. scratch head

We are off Wednesday for a few days in Dorset, so will see how things go. Wife says not noticed it pumping air before.

Still I have had some very useful tips today and will investigate fully on our return.
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