Changing door opening on 2013 Lancashire

Fed up with the habitation door and the stay which restricts to 90 degrees. How do I establish where the supports are in order to remove the stay and fit a clasp to hold the door against the van? 
Thanks

From what I know of the construction of AS coach built van sidewalls, there are no supports as such. It's a lightweight bonded construction of thin ply inside and aluminium or plastic sheet outside with a core of narrow lattice timber and insulation.
My door clasp is held on with two self tapping screws, but the main bond is Silkaflex or some such adhesive. It's held fast for the last 14 years.
But be aware that these clasps are not capable of holding the door back in strong winds. In such cases we use a bungee from one of the rear wheel piercings to the inside door handle.
Al

Not familiar with the van can you not shorten the length of the stay arm?

Could the stay be replaced by a gas strut, long enough to open the door wider. This firm were recommended on another forum..

https://www.sgs-engineering.com/gas-struts

Nice idea Paulmould but not sure how I could attache to door and frame without it being in the way.

Another thing to bear in mind if you plan to have the door clasped back against the van for long periods in hot weather is that it will restrict airflow round the fridge vents and cause the fridge to be less efficient.
I wonder if this is why AS restrict the door opening to 90 degrees on newer vans.
Al.

Think i mentioned about mine a while ago, mine don't do anything its nackkered when i contacted AS they said was to stop it slamming shut in windy conditions. i never replaced it, at nearly £100 we live with it, bungee strap is cheaper.

I made a door retainer for my Executive from a strip of 25mm x 1mm steel strip. I bent one end through 180 degrees and the width of the wheel arch return so that it clips on to the wheel arch and sticks out. I pushed the door back so there was a little bit of tension on it and marked the outer edge of the door then cut it to length plus 20mm. I then put a twist in the length of the strip so it sat flush to the door edge and square with the wheel arch. Then I bent it 20mm from the end at 90 degrees so that clips onto the door edge.

Hope that makes sense. It lives under the sink.

Brian.

Just put this on another thread, but it's the easiest idea I've ever pinched from someone else! 

A length of half inch wide (or so) webbing with velcro at each end forming quick release loops. One end round the door handle and the other end round anywhere suitable - the door mirror in our case.

Adjust to length as you make it (obviously) and it's the work of a second to attach or remove it, and it won't chafe the paintwork.

There is no hope of using anything other than a cord or bungee on a 2011 body style. Without any form of stay the door can only open to about 150 or 160 degrees because of the way the body flares out around the rear wheels. Any form of clip would need to be around a foot long, maybe more. And the wind getting behind the door will overcome any strut, hydraulic or friction.

Ah yes - thought I had some photos of the door strap somewhere.





Badly fitted in order to show the velcro more clearly.

We had a discussion on this issue way back in 2015, the Hartal door is the one thing I REALLY hate about our Stanton. If you scroll down this thread: 
https://www.autosleeper-ownersforum.com/t13230-malfunctioning-door-strut-on-2014-broadway?highlight=stanton+door
Near the bottom you will see what I did. The thread sort of runs out as I disappeared on a trip but I'm reasonably sure that I did later post some shots of the aluminium components I made up to the strengthen the crap plastic original ones, can't find that thread though. The main thing was to source a much longer stainless countersunk Allen screw for the stay to body, held in by Loctite, this means the little screw falling out into the long grass scenario cannot be repeated; if the longer screw does start to loosen you are alerted to the fact as the door starts to catch on it long before it falls out. I think I may have some of the screws left, if anyone is interested.
wrt fitting a longer link, or a gas-strut, to allow the door to fold back, I really could not come up with a solution, due to the limited clearances between the door and it's frame.
Am I correct in thinking that A-S is now using a different door?

EDIT: The source of "Real Bungy Cords" referred to has dried up (I believe they are made in the US).

Gromit wrote:Ah yes - thought I had some photos of the door strap somewhere.





Badly fitted in order to show the velcro more clearly.

 The problem I found with this type of fix is that the Hebridean gusts can still blast the door against the side of the van, breaking the stay fittings. That's why I came up with the two-way solution in the link immediately above.

Hi, first post anywhere ever so hope this works and the content is useful.
To stop the habitation door on our executive 2003 from being fully open (which restricts air flow to the fridge vent), or fully shut (the only other option), I have come up with this. NB it is work in progress with plans to use a turnbuckle such that the door opening can be adjusted when fitted.  
The part that fits the catch on the motor-home body is actually part of an old suitcase adjustable handle simply filled with nylon strimmer line, heated with a heat gun until it fills the internal cavity. It has then been drilled and filed into the shape you see to fit the catch and enable some rotational movement.  The other part is a piece of 6mm diameter rod bent to to fit the catch on the door and threaded at the other to attach to the other part. As they say a picture paints a thousand words and saves a lot of typing trying to explain .........
Any comments and ideas appreciated.

Hi, could not see the photos  so Ill try again

Parsley wrote:part of an old suitcase adjustable handle simply filled with nylon strimmer line, heated with a heat gun until it fills the internal cavity.

That's clever - I've never heard of that technique before, but it makes sense. I guess you could achieve something similar by filling it with a 2-part epoxy glue, but it would cost a lot more and it probably wouldn't be as durable as home-moulded nylon!