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Symphony brake upgrade?

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chrisvesey
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Symphony brake upgrade? Empty Symphony brake upgrade?

Post by fenderbender Fri Feb 05, 2016 3:12 pm

Although the brakes on the van are 'adequate', i've always thought they could do with improvement, i've recently put new callipers on the front and changed the brake fluid, can anyone recommend an upgrade with either better pads or discs, and how much of an improvement could i expect.
Thanks.
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Post by redturner37 Fri Feb 05, 2016 7:25 pm

are you sure the servo is working o.k.....makes a big difference. The brakes on my Harmony are brilliant, even with the trailer on the back .....
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Post by fenderbender Fri Feb 05, 2016 7:29 pm

Thanks never thought of the servo, will check.

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Post by fenderbender Sat Feb 06, 2016 12:11 pm

Tested servo, its working fine.

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Post by boxerman Sat Feb 06, 2016 12:19 pm

Are the back brakes working OK?

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Post by fenderbender Sat Feb 06, 2016 1:32 pm

Yes rear brakes seem fine, just mot'd last week so i presume they are ok.

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Post by boxerman Sat Feb 06, 2016 1:53 pm

Like Redturner, I find the brakes fine.
The MOT pass figure for brakes is pretty low so they can be quite poor and still pass.

What was the reason for changing the calipers? a quest for better braking or to repair a fault?
They can be troublesome to bleed properly, I push the pistons right to the back and then use a vacuum pump [sealing the nipple with silicone grease on the threads].

I recently replaced all four flexies on the front, not because they were causing issues but I reckoned that they were originals and therefore 20 years old. Brakes didn't feel any different afterwards, just did it for peace of mind.

Trying to think what else it might be but not having much luck, discs aren't rusted away on the inside are they?

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Post by fenderbender Sat Feb 06, 2016 2:16 pm

I changed the callipers because they would occasionaly stick, sometimes the wheels would get really hot, i stripped them a couple of times and cleaned them up and they would be ok for a while then it would happen again, i dont think the previous owners used it as much as i do so the damage was probably done then. The sliders were'nt too bad but the edges of the pistons were pitted.
Discs dont seem too bad, one thing i didnt do was change the pads, there was plenty of meat on em so i put them back, i might have been better changing them as well.
Could be worth bleeding the system again.

Thanks for the advice

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Post by chrisvesey Sat Feb 06, 2016 5:38 pm

Hi,
Is the load compensator working properly?
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Post by fenderbender Sat Feb 06, 2016 6:03 pm

Hi Chris, not had much to do with them to be honest, have just been doing a bit of research and it seems the vans from 96-97 were recalled because of incorrect compensator fitted, will have to investigate as soon as i get chance. From what i can gather its just a matter of adjusting, is that correct ?

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Post by chrisvesey Sat Feb 06, 2016 6:13 pm

Hi,
I know how they are supposed to work but have no idea about settings. You need one of those rare beasts called a competent mechanic, good luck,
Chris
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Post by boxerman Sat Feb 06, 2016 6:36 pm

When I fitted my air suspension, the instructions said to adjust the compensator to it's maximum setting, which I did.
<edit> by maximum setting, I mean the position it would be in if the axle was loaded to the maximum.
Unlike 'white vans' our vans are loaded to quite a high degree all of the time and never run 'empty' so there isn't the issue of locking the rear wheels on an unloaded axle.

Frank
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Post by fenderbender Sat Feb 06, 2016 6:55 pm

So will it make a difference to how the brakes operate depending whether van is lightly loaded or loaded to its maximum. I know the idea is that the rear operares slightly before the front or is it front before rear?

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Post by boxerman Sat Feb 06, 2016 7:11 pm

Its there to reduce the pressure to the rear brakes when the back axle is lightly loaded and allow full pressure when the axle is fully loaded.

As far as I know, all the brakes come on together, I haven't seen anything in the system to delay pressure from one end or the other.

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Post by fenderbender Sat Feb 06, 2016 7:49 pm

Thanks now i understand.

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Post by peugeotboxer Sun Feb 07, 2016 7:40 pm

My Harmony failed the MOT in December for inbalance of front brakes.
Never detected a problem when driving though, brakes always good even with a 750kg unbraked trailer.
Front discs (originals) and pads changed.
Passed MOT and the brakes certainly are more responsive.

PB
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Post by matchlessman Tue Feb 09, 2016 1:30 pm

I would always try pads before anything else. Cheapest and easiest to do. There are various compounds available, some give a sharp initial 'bite', others have a softer feel. We do need a fairly hard compound due to the massive weight we are pulling up (compared to your average almost empty white van), the last thing you need is brake fade at the bottom of the hill (which is why they used to recommend a low gear for steep downhills). Worth talking to your local motor factors to see what the options are to fit your (shiny new) calipers.
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Post by boxerman Tue Feb 09, 2016 3:28 pm

@matchlessman, whereas I've seen optional braking material offered for bikes, I've never seen it offered for vans [I would have liked a bit more 'bite' when I had the Trafic]. The only options I've seen for the Boxer is whether the warning light connector has a round connector or a square one.
I'm going to change my discs withing the next couple of weeks [weather permitting] and obviously I'll be changing the pads too. Please tell me more about what options are available for the Boxer.

BTW. from my experience in a 'goods inwards' capacity I would say 'usually overloaded' rather than 'almost empty' white van.

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Post by fenderbender Tue Feb 09, 2016 3:58 pm

Frank, been looking myself, have found 'drilled and vented discs' from mtec, but cant find pads with different compounds for vans, seems to be cars and bikes only, although prices vary a lot for standard pads. Will keep looking.

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Post by boxerman Tue Feb 09, 2016 4:57 pm

Hi Dave,
They are solid discs on mine. I was about to order some Mintex discs & pads off Ebay but I just saw Matchlessman's post and thought that he might know of a better option.

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Post by -mojo- Tue Feb 09, 2016 6:00 pm

fenderbender wrote:have found 'drilled and vented discs' from mtec

I've been advised to steer clear of drilled discs for anything other than track use. They are reputed to wear relatively quickly (quicker than the small amount of material removed in the drilling would suggest) and also they are said to be more prone to warping - though I've never seen any explanation as to why they should be...
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Post by peugeotboxer Tue Feb 09, 2016 6:54 pm

There's nothing these guys don't know about friction material:

[You must be registered and logged in to see this link.]

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Post by redturner37 Tue Feb 09, 2016 7:35 pm

Have you actually checked that the load sensing valve is actually working and not siezed through mis-use. Last MOT I had said brakes were brilliant and in fact nearly pulled truck out of rollers. However, the report said, discs badly corroded and pads worn and when I had a bit of time a couple of weeks later I pulled the front wheels off and bloody 'ell, they were in such a condition that I would have said they were a failure though they worked brilliant. I bought a new set of pads and discs (solid) and fitted them for piece of mind and the brakes are no better but I can stand it on its nose as before. Never use cross drilled discs on a road vehicle, they will fail early. I use them on the single seater and use very soft pads so that they work instantly from cold, but in truth we dont use brakes much, well they do slow you down...........
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Post by fenderbender Tue Feb 09, 2016 7:45 pm

Not checked load sensing valve yet, been away in van and just got back, will get under van tomorrow if rain keeps off.

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Post by redturner37 Tue Feb 09, 2016 7:54 pm

If it has a flexible joint  in the linkage it is fairly easy to test, if not, remove one end of the link arm and try to move up and down.........
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