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Warwick Duo Heating Duct

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Post by Bessbus Tue May 12, 2015 8:10 pm

I would like to add another heating duct. My truma combi has a spare outlet and I would like to utilise this to provide an additional duct to the lounge. I am trying to follow Nimbus's posts on this subject and hoping that he will reply to my query. I have purchased an elbow (as suggested from Leisureshop direct) and have also purchased the ducting, an outlet and a back nut. I have also purchased a holesaw (57 mm) which might be slightly on the small side. However I cannot get the elbow to fit into the spare top outlet on the combi boiler. The blanking plug  also does not fit properly. The problem seems to be that there is a small metal clip fixed to the outlet and on the underside of the clip is a protruding lip. This clip is preventing the blanking plug and/or the elbow to fit properly. I know the elbow needs some persuasion but my attempts  so far are not successful. Perhaps if I remove the ply board which runs the length of the seat at the rear would give me better access from above. Help please - I think I need to lift the rear panel ( the part that hides the secret compartment) and I think that I need to use long nosed pliers to remove the metal clip. I wonder if anyone else has encountered this problem.
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Post by nimbus Tue May 12, 2015 10:09 pm

It will certainly be a lot easier with the rear flat panel and the cushions removed, which is straightforward. The clip is only used on the flexible ducting to hold it in place, so remove it and refit it after you have installed the elbow to the duct. The elbow is best fitted with superglue, so make sure that the angle is correct before it sets in place. I also used a really tiny stainless self tapper to hold the elbow in place. If you haven't got a spare clip for the outlet end just stretch the duct so that it's held in place by compression.

At the other end I made the mistake of cutting the hole in the wrong position and the bench leg dropped down right in front of it, but it was straighforward to reposition the leg.

I also had to tidy up the mess of cables and reposition the fresh water pipe to allow space for the duct. Truma recommend that the duct has a dip in it but I didn't have the space so it's almost flat between boiler and the outlet.

Let us know how you get on.
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Post by Bessbus Tue May 12, 2015 10:28 pm

Many thanks Nimbus. That all makes sense. It will probably be next week when I next have time to tackle this job but removal of the clip seems to be the key. I will let you know how I get on.
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Post by pjkxpjkx Wed May 13, 2015 12:00 am

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Post by pjkxpjkx Thu May 14, 2015 6:36 pm

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Post by pjkxpjkx Thu May 14, 2015 6:39 pm

Self tappers

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Master switch repositioned

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sorted.  Thanks to Nimbus
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Post by Bessbus Thu May 14, 2015 6:56 pm

Excellent, neat job Pete. So far I have managed to relocate the master switch but I still need to remove the rear panel to provide better access to the truma unit and I have still to remove the clip from the outlet. I have all the parts and just need the time to tackle this job. Excellent detailed pictures. Can you please which size of holesaw you used -I have bought a 57mm size which might be slightly on the small side but could enlarge the hole with a file or sandpaper. Again many thanks to both yourself and Nimbus. 
Malcolm
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Post by pjkxpjkx Sat May 16, 2015 12:00 am

The wood is some sort of composite which is quite strong so I would recommend the correct size hole saw.
70mm?  I will go out and measure to be sure...

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Post by Bessbus Sat May 16, 2015 4:59 pm

Many thanks Peter and Nimbus. I think that I will need to buy a 60mm holesaw - I will try both 57mm and 60mm holesaws to a spare kitchen cupboard first and try out the heating outlet for size before I drill the hole in the van.
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Post by Infared Sun May 17, 2015 11:44 pm

pjkxpjkx wrote:

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PeteJ
Do you know what the extra black vents are for?
 
I found that when it is windy outside that there is quite a cold blast of air coming from them due to the vents in the floor being just beneath them.

I'm thinking of blocking them off as they weren't there in previous years model.

Ian
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Post by pjkxpjkx Tue May 19, 2015 9:24 pm

I will go out and measure to be sure...
The outlet diameter is 59mm.

Here is a photo of the parts...
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Do you know what the extra black vents are for?
Presumably AS thought that the space under the bed needed more ventilation.  I covered over the vent in the floor mainly because I was trying to get the temperature of the frost protection device up to 7c and the icy blast comes up right next to it.

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Post by Infared Wed May 20, 2015 12:09 am

pjkxpjkx wrote:
Do you know what the extra black vents are for?
Presumably AS thought that the space under the bed needed more ventilation.  I covered over the vent in the floor mainly because I was trying to get the temperature of the frost protection device up to 7c and the icy blast comes up right next to it.

PeteJ
Don't think it is a good idea to cover the floor vent unless you put one in elsewhere.

I agree the present one is in a silly place being next to the frost protection device.

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Post by pjkxpjkx Sat May 23, 2015 11:12 pm

unless you put one in elsewhere.

Thanks, now uncovered, at least for the summer while I think about that.
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Post by Wigley Woggled Thu May 28, 2015 2:52 pm

Infared wrote:
pjkxpjkx wrote:

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PeteJ
Do you know what the extra black vents are for?
 
I found that when it is windy outside that there is quite a cold blast of air coming from them due to the vents in the floor being just beneath them.

I'm thinking of blocking them off as they weren't there in previous years model.

Ian

I can't understand why three ventilation grilles and ports are needed. Two circle black ones and one brown long one placed as if scooping up the dust from the floor scratch head . Surely one ventilation grille of a suitable size would have sufficed and would looked neater. They seem to be placed so particular that it makes me think there's a specific reason but all I can see is that they take in room space air to recirculate.

I agree with the fresh air intake in the floor being so close to the auto frost dumping valve. I wouldn't close it off as essential fresh air is needed. Better to place it elsewhere in the compartment though I haven't bothered.

We managed to camp overnight with electric hook up, the temperature was down to -4C and the sites water tap froze solid. So we kept our heating on all night in the hope that some heat from the boiler would stave off the -4C coming in from the vent. Having been successful it made me wonder how cold one can get away with it without the auto dump tripping.

Just noticed. Under 'Warwick Duo Modifications' thread Nimbus picture doesn't show the two circle black grilles just the brown 'floor scoop'. So does that mean the black ones aren't standard and have been fitted as an extra for some reason?
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Post by Infared Thu May 28, 2015 11:54 pm

The black vents seem to be standard on later model Duos, mine is a 2011 and has them, Nimbus has a 2009 and doesn't have them.
If they make it too drafty or cold I'll cover them up.

If you keep your heating on overnight then I don't think the auto dump valve would trip unless it got really cold. The problem is when you have no heating on i.e. driving around, when it could activate.

Ian

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Post by pjkxpjkx Sun Apr 16, 2017 7:39 pm

Another outlet makes five.
The outlet to the bathroom finally fell of because it was cut too short and not straight.

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I thought that the bathroom was too warm anyway so an excuse to split that hot air feed with the lounge.

The first version did not work.

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The second attempt works very well given that the duct has to go underneath the van first.

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The burning smell reported by many members when the Truma Combi is heating water has now disappeared.

PeteJ

ps the new Warwick Duo is different.
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