Gearbox OR clutch problem ?

Hi.

I'm looking for advice re problems I'm experiencing with my Autosleeper Rambler (similiar to the Symphony model).

It's a X reg Sept 2000 Boxer 2.0 petrol which I have owned for 5 years and it's only done total 32000 miles.

Initially like many MotorHomes it was used infrequently but for the last 12 months I have been using it on a regular weekly basis.

It's always been inclined to make a crunching / grinding noise if hurried too fast when engaging 1st & reverse gears - after fully depressing the clutch  waiting for a few moments before slowly selecting 1st / reverse I found helped to avoid it but not always.
Also it became very stiff changing from 1st to 2nd hesitating in neutral for moment helps a bit - but recently both these problems have got worse.
It has now over the last couple of months also started to make a different grating noise when changing from 3rd up into 4th. All other gear changes are still clean.

In very hot weather the gear lever 'squeaks' too which I have tried to cure by lifting the gaiter away from the lever and using a spray Lub on the inner mech which has helped but not entirely stopped it.


When I put it in for it's MOT (it sailed through Ok) I mentioned it to the garage but they were very busy and could not fit in for a proper check of the problem but hinted it was probably the gearbox and that it could carry on for sometime before it needed a replacement.


But is it the gearbox or is it the clutch that's causing the problem although there's no clutch slip occuring ?
I believe these are a cable operated clutch could that be the problem?

I had the gearbox oil drained & refilled last year in case water had got in but they said that it had not & it was OK.

I'm not a mechanical savvy person & having looked for info on Google which showed up lots of stuff & now I'm completely confused hence advice needed so I don't get caught spending out on unnecessary repairs / replacements. 

Obviously there is a big difference in cost replacing a clutch cable against replacing a clutch or reconditioning a gearbox - could you give me your opinion as where the problem lies.
 

What would a clutch likely to cost including fitting ?

What would a new or recon gearbox cost including fitting ?

Obviously I'm now reluctant to go any distance in it until I can pinpoint & resolve the problems.

Where about in south Wales are you? 
I know a good gearbox place near Pontypool that could help.

I had a 1995 vintage 2.0ltr Petrol engine and gearbox in my Harmony before swapping the power unit for a 2.0HDi Diesel. As is common with these earlier gearboxes, by the time I got to 65,000 miles, 1st to 2nd was crunching a bit going up. It was OK in the other gears, nevertheless you are probably suffering the same issue. I can't remember whether it crunched on the way down (first is so low-geared that one seldom has to go down into it). I suspect the issue is one of synchromesh wear, but not sure.

That said, it could be that your clutch is also either failing or in need of adjustment. For me the first important question is where on the pedal travel is your clutch 'biting'? If it's high then putting your foot to the carpet should be sufficient to properly disengage. But if it's biting low down then the clutch may not be fully disengaging but 'dragging'. Check the end of the cable where it engages into the clutch arm on the gearbox: if there's loads of slack there then that too points to it being out of adjustment. In which case it's a simple matter to tighten the nuts on the end of the cable, but not so far that the clutch release bearing is always running on the pressure plate. Another potential source of dragging, even with a properly adjusted clutch, is oil contamination. Is the bell housing joint between engine and gearbox dry? If so then this can be discounted. I presume the clutch 'feels' OK with no juddering or squealing? I've found it worthwhile to occasionally give a little-used clutch a bit of a burn from time to time, but not so much as to cook the thing, just to freshen-up the surfaces.

Changing the clutch obviously requires removal of the N/S drive shaft by breaking a suspension joint and putting the strut on full lock. Then you have to remove the gearbox from the engine. I've done the job, but its a big, heavy gearbox, and getting it back on again and liming-up the gearbox input shaft with the clutch plate is a right game. Best left to the professionals if you haven't got a trolley jack with a good lift height. It goes without saying that if you have the clutch changed then it is prudent to go for all three elements: clutch plate, pressure plate and release bearing.

Hope this helps.

Bartfarst