2007 Topaz handbrake

I have a 2007 Topaz on a VW transporter T5 LWB which has a poor handbrake. The rear disc has an inner brake drum and brake shoes for the handbrake and standard discs for the main brake, both systems work independently. I have since had the brake discs replaced as the old ones were looking worn but this has not improved the handbrake. The van will roll backwards when setting off on a hill and definitely needs to have wheel chocks if not left in gear when parked on a slope. The handbrake is good enough to pass the MOT but no good for everyday use. Has anyone had a similar problem and maybe found a solution.

Thanks

Sounds like something is not right here: the transporter is basically a delivery van and the parking brake should comfortably hold the vehicle on a steep slope when laden to its max permitted weight; in fact they design them to hold the vehicle when massively over-laden, as a safety margin.
I would have a word with your local VW commercial dealer, rather than a "Quick-fix"(!) type place; they are used to working on these utility vehicles.

We also have a 2007 Topaz and the parking brake does need a good tug but when it is on, it is positively on! What is a bit of a concern is having to release the parking brake to swivel the driver's seat, especially if one has had to use leveling blocks; chocks 'n rocks are definitely the order of the day.

Cheers,
Pete.

Yo

My Peugeot Boxer hand brake was'nt holding so took it in to be adjusted it turn out to be both brake cylinders was leaking.

Stewart John wrote:Yo

My Peugeot Boxer hand brake was'nt holding so took it in to be adjusted it turn out to be both brake cylinders was leaking.

Doesn't the Boxer have rear drums, rather than Discs?

Yo Pete

Got carried away and never read the Disc part.

Stewart John wrote:Yo Pete

Got carried away and never read the Disc part.

Yes, but the OP says that the handbrake is in a drum which is part of the rear disc.
I expect that it is just a mechanical arrangement rather than any hydraulics involved.

Not familiar with this arrangement though

PB


Just found this which may be of interest:

Adjusting handbrake
* Adjustment may only be made at both adjustment mechanisms of the rear axle. Adjustment must not be carried out at the handbrake lever!
* Ensure the handbrake cables are routed and guided correctly.
* If the brake shoes have been renewed then the free travel must be set to the 5th tooth and the brake shoes run-in by a single braking manoeuvre from approx. 50 km/h.
– Handbrake lever in released position.
– Remove rear wheels.
The brake discs must move freely, press a brake shoe back slightly or move the rear brake cable to and fro lightly if necessary.
– Turn brake disc until the parking brake adjustment nut is visible through a wheel bolt hole.
Adjusting brake shoes on both wheels

– Insert a screwdriver through the hole in the brake disc and turn the adjustment nut -A- back against the resistance of the spring -B- until the brake disc can no longer turn.
– Then loosen the adjustment nut 6 teeth. The brake disc must then be able to turn freely.
– Then recheck free travel at handbrake lever.
– Install wheels.
Checking free travel at handbrake lever
* Depress handbrake lever 2 or 3 teeth. Wheels must turn without the brake shoes touching/scraping.
* Depress handbrake lever 5 to 7 teeth. Wheels must lock. If the wheels turn then the parking brake must be adjusted.

Came from [You must be registered and logged in to see this link.]

(Hope that's OK to link?)

PB

That sounds quite a palaver doesn't it?!

I've since discovered that there are kits available to lower the handbrake lever to allow seats to swivel; will investigate and report back but I think it is pretty risible of Auto-Sleepers not to have done this in the first place, considering that a new van can be getting on for £60k!

Cheers,
Pete.

Pete Taylor wrote:I think it is pretty risible of Auto-Sleepers not to have done this in the first place, considering that a new van can be getting on for £60k!

Pete - I don't want to be too quick to jump to A-S defence, but they are "authorised" VW converters, which I'm pretty sure means that they have to conform to VW's rules about what can be changed and what cannot in order that the VW base vehicle warranty should remain valid. I would not be at all surprised if these rules do not permit A-S to make any changes to the vehicle's brakes.

I will be interested to hear what you find out about handbrake levers that can be lowered while engaged, though.

Apologies for delay on responding, we have been "away"!!!

There appear to be two manufacturers of brackets to move the VW T5 handbrake lever away from the driver's seat; both of these are TUV approved, so it should not be a problem for AS to fit them. What would be an inconvenience is that there does not seem to be a way of replacing the cover over the lever mechanism once the brackets have been fitted. Also, without the cover, the lever and brackets would probably skin your ankles when stepping between the front seats!

Having used levelling blocks a few times now and having had to release the handbrake whilst doing so, I'm not terribly impressed. We have the yellow Fiamma ramps, with removable chocks- these are the only ones I can find space for in the Topaz; the procedure is to drive right to the very top of the wedges in order to fit the chocks, release the brake, swivel the seat and put the brake back on. There is not really any adjustment as, despite there being several positions to fit the chocks when the levels are being demonstrated in the shop, when you have a wheel and tyre involved, you can only get to the first chock position up the ramp, unless you teeter right on the brink at the top of the wedge. I watched a guy drive right off the top of these ramps when we were away the other week, fortunately it is not far to fall!

I'm somewhat jealous of folks who have the space to carry those stepped Milenco Quattro stepped levels- there would be no problem with releasing the brake but I would need a trailer to carry them in! Life is about compromise and we chose the Topaz in order to go up goat tracks where larger outfits could not venture, so we'll make do.

I'm planning to fit a buffer at the top of my ramps in order to reduce the risk of going over the top; I'll post a photo when the job is done. Also I'm looking to find someone who has moved their handbrake in order to assess the possibility of modifying the cover (spot the Engineering Designer!).

Cheers,
Pete.

Pete Taylor wrote:
I'm planning to fit a buffer at the top of my ramps in order to reduce the risk of going over the top

Pete - while I wouldn't normally attempt to discourage an engineer from re-engineering things, my own personal experience of "going over the top" is that a buffer at the top probably won't help at all.

In my case I didn't actually drop off the end. What happened, and I suspect happens in most of these (very embarrassing) cases, is that I got to within what appeared to be a safe distance just below the top, but the momentum of the van as I applied the brakes caused the ramp to rotate around its forward lower edge, the back end of the ramp then flipping up into the wheel arch behind the wheel. A buffer at the top of the ramp would not stop this happening, and might even make it more likely to happen.

Photo of modifed ramps.

I'd suggest caution if you decide to test whether it works as intended or not. From here it seems that when you get to a position where a significant proportion of the van's weight (on that wheel) is resting on the buffer, you will have nothing vertically underneath to support it.

The ramp will (if I'm correct) simply rotate around its forward lower edge, the back end of the ramp (which has no weight on it) will flip up and that wheel will rapidly be back on the ground again. Believe me, you will get little warning - once it starts to go, it is (or was for me at least) over very quickly! I should add that a significant factor in my case was soft ground, which allowed the lower edge of the ramp to dig into the ground as it rotated.

Are you sure that you did not simply drive too quickly and over the end?

Basic laws of Physics, Mr Bond.  :think_smiley_4

-mojo- wrote:
In my case I didn't actually drop off the end. What happened, and I suspect happens in most of these (very embarrassing) cases, is that I got to within what appeared to be a safe distance just below the top, but the momentum of the van as I applied the brakes caused the ramp to rotate around its forward lower edge, the back end of the ramp then flipping up into the wheel arch behind the wheel. A buffer at the top of the ramp would not stop this happening, and might even make it more likely to happen.

I know it's bad form to quote myself, but the above is what happened. There was no high speed involved - it was an auto transmission Transit so I could make it creep up the ramp with no need for a run up.

Take a look at what is vertically below the front edge of your buffers. Nothing - just fresh air.

I would be happy to be proved wrong, but if you decide to test if it works as you expect, please do so carefully!

Mojo,

I have moved the subsequent discussion here:

[You must be registered and logged in to see this link.]

because I think it has drifted some way from the OPs original point. As you will see I did some experiments and concluded to use the ramps differently but without the extensions! 

Cheers,
Pete.