Symbol -- Draining water system

Hi,
Not using my 2004 Symbol for a few weeks & because of the low temperatures, I've drained the water system but I now notice in the A/S handbook they recommend removing & draining the water filter on the Shurflo pump.
My pump, as I would imagine all Symbols & vans of this type, is concealed beneath the false floor of the small cupboard under the cooker.
I can just about see the pump, let alone get to it, has anybody out there attempted this?
Any info will be greatly appreciated.

Hi Mike.

The filter on the Shurflo pump can be a little difficult to remove. First of all, if it's the first type it will be a clear plastic straight through type of filter, when you try to turn the filter body to remove the filter gauze they tend to break off at the inlet side. This does not damage the pump by the way. If its the second type black plastic with a clear plastic front. The clear plastic part can be removed to take out the filter gauze. They have now improved on this type and both can be got to replace the first type. They cost about a tenner and are about 20mm longer than the original. Easy DIY job to fit. However if you close all of the taps exept the shower. Open all drain taps including the water heater drain. Take of the shower handset and blow down the shower flexible hose you will remove neary all of the system water.
I always do this each winter when not using my van and never had a problem with frozen pipes or pump.

Good Luck. Whisky.

We've had our Symphony (older than yours) for 8(ish) years. The first year we had it I decided to remove & clean the pump filter but it was so awkward and tight that I decided not to bother in case I broke something.
I haven't bothered since either

Frank

Hi,
I would have thought the delivery valve on the pump would prevent you blowing right through the pump (and the suction valve) I loosen the delivery pipe connection last and run the pump then blow back through the pipework, the only sure way is to take the pump out,
Chris V
must admit I don't bother

Just had another look in the pump compartment & the filter is behind the back panel & to access it I would have to remove this panel.
The problem is that the MCBs & the switch for the mains supply to the Truma water heater are attached to it & to get it out I would have to disconnect these items.
I foresee non-stop AG!

mikemelson wrote:
Just had another look in the pump compartment & the filter is behind the back panel & to access it I would have to remove this panel.
The problem is that the MCBs & the switch for the mains supply to the Truma water heater are attached to it & to get it out I would have to disconnect these items.
I foresee non-stop AG!

Unless you're filling your tank with pond water, I don't see how this filter can get blocked. Mine hasn't in the last 8+ years.

Frank

boxerman wrote:

mikemelson wrote:
Just had another look in the pump compartment & the filter is behind the back panel & to access it I would have to remove this panel.
The problem is that the MCBs & the switch for the mains supply to the Truma water heater are attached to it & to get it out I would have to disconnect these items.
I foresee non-stop AG!

Unless you're filling your tank with pond water, I don't see how this filter can get blocked. Mine hasn't in the last 8+ years.

Frank

I'm not worried about it getting blocked, I'm worried about it freezing. My A/S manual states that in below freezing conditions the filter should be removed & cleared of all water.

Hi again Mike.

I can understand you thinking the AS manual has all the good info. But in this case the filter medium is only a inch and a quarter disc of stainless steel gauze. The holes in the gauze are actually quite large for a filter and would only filter out quite large particles. As Boxerman states you hardly ever need to take them out to clean them. It is for this reason that I doubt it would retain an amount of water in the filter. I don't know of many people removing it in the frosty weather and they seem to not suffer damage. Mine never has. As I said before it is more likely to damage it by taking it apart.

Hope this helps you decide what to do.

Whisky.

Thanks guys for your observations.
Yeah! I'm not going to bother, too much trouble.
Although my brother in law had a ruined pump through the filter freezing, but his van was stored on a site for the winter months.
At least my van gets a bit of warmth if the temp' dips below zero, I run the Eberspacher for a bit & put in a 60W cylinder heater overnight.

mikemelson wrote:
Just had another look in the pump compartment & the filter is behind the back panel & to access it I would have to remove this panel.
The problem is that the MCBs & the switch for the mains supply to the Truma water heater are attached to it & to get it out I would have to disconnect these items.
I foresee non-stop AG!

I have had to have this panel off when i replaced my consumer unit, 4 screws and there is enough play on the cable length behind the board to allow you to move the panel about with the MCB still atached to the panel (unplug the EHU first)

Harper22 wrote:
I have had to have this panel off when i replaced my consumer unit, 4 screws and there is enough play on the cable length behind the board to allow you to move the panel about with the MCB still atached to the panel (unplug the EHU first)

Same here - had to remove mine to access the water pipes and - as with yours - there's plenty of free cable to swing it round and get behind it.

As a matter of interest, what made you replace the consumer unit?

-mojo- wrote:

Harper22 wrote:
I have had to have this panel off when i replaced my consumer unit, 4 screws and there is enough play on the cable length behind the board to allow you to move the panel about with the MCB still atached to the panel (unplug the EHU first)

Same here - had to remove mine to access the water pipes and - as with yours - there's plenty of free cable to swing it round and get behind it.

As a matter of interest, what made you replace the consumer unit?

Its easier to direct you to the post "EHU frustration" Long story short Narrowed the issue down to the MCB or Wiring. changed the MCB wasnt that then unfed the cables to first socket and it had melted and was causing a short. sadly by that time had already done the knock outs on MCB so couldnt return but now i know its up to date and CB's easily sourced.

Appologies re off topic