Symbol Clutch

I recently purchased a Symbol with the what seemed normal a stiff, in my case very stiff clutch pedal. I purchased the van a long way from home, ( first bad decision) and rather that take it back I decided to fit the cable myself. And with the help of lots of people on here I purchased the original cable from our local main agent and left the cable in the van.
The following week we, that is the wife and I went to the seaside, about 50 miles away and the clutch pedal seemed to "free off" a bit. On the way home up a fairly steep hill the clutch started to slip so I nursed it home and rang
the garage I bought the vehicle from and arranged to take it back.
The garage agreed to install a new clutch which they did, also fitted the new cable I supplied and also a clutch pedal. I was very pleased and came home with a not car type clutch pedal but 200% better that what it was so I was a happy hector.
I decided to investigate the parts left in the van by the garage, First off the clutch diaphragm was burnt but the clutch was not worn out which made me look at the old cable. I arranged the old cable in the same angle that it had been removed from the vehicle and the original cable jammed and you could not move it in or out. From this the clutch slip was caused by the original cable not releasing itself and causing slipping under load.
Therefore should you get a stiff cable disconnect the gearbox end and the pedal end and try to move the cable in situ, if stiff to move change for an Original cable first.
I hope this is of help to some of you.
I am also looking at a design fault in the cable and later I will try a modification and if it works publish it here.

Regards Mike.

I will be interested to know how you get on with the clutch cable design. My symbol had a stiff clutch and notchy gears.

Water was leaking from the scuttle straight onto the gearbox causing everything to seize up. So fixed the leak and greased both ends of gear selection cables and joints as well as changing gearbox oil which had water in it. Everything much improved now. I'm sure if the vehicle was used daily the water would not have been a problem. I have only owned it a couple of months and I do not think the previous owner used it in the winter.
Rgds
Mick

Hi Mick,
The main reason for the clutch pedal to be hard seems to be it's length and the ingress of water from the road at the lower end were the cable comes through the gearbox case, there is a cup that fills with water from the road and runs back into the cable causing it to seize. I am working on an idea to stop the ingress of water. I would not recommend lubricating the cable with oil as it has a nylon outer and inner sleeve and oil will cause it to swell and bind. This is just my view working on old style vehicles for a long time. My Symbol had a new original Peugeot cable fitted and there is a rubber cap stopping water getting into the inner cable, on the old one this had split.
Anyone else with other cable suggestions please chime in.

Regards, Mike

Mike,

I like the logic and can see exactly how a sticking cable would cause a clutch to burn out over time.

It would be like driving with your foot partly depressing the clutch and it would get progressively worse as time went by.

Filed in the "Remember this if ANY clutch pedal starts getting hard to operate." part of my brain. Many thanks.

Best regards and many thanks,

Ian

Trying to get an image on here to explain the modification, help please

regards Mike

Flying High wrote:Trying to get an image on here to explain the modification, help please

regards Mike

Hi Mike

Have a read here:

[You must be registered and logged in to see this link.]

It may sound complicated but it isn't really!!

PB

Right this is the area to look at on the clutch cable that is prone to water ingress. Note the rubber end has gone and the cable is designed in such a way that water lays on the dished cup and pours into the cable.

Regards Mike

Thanks PB for the help with the photo link, I think I understand.

This my first attempt at a modification, the rubber is from a steering rack gaiter with a cable tie to close the end. Next week I will look around for a more watertight solution such as a rubber concertina sleeve to completely seal the end. I must add that the new cable fitted with the clutch last week had the little gaiter under the adjuster screw and NOT on the end of the cable. When I released the new cable from it's mount and held it vertical on Saturday water poured out of the cable, this was one day after the cable had been fitted.

Also if you look closely at image image one you will see fraying at the end of the cable, this was probably due to oil being added to free off the inner cable.

Well that's what I have found. Anyone with a better solution to this long ongoing problem with the Boxer please join in.

BTW my Symbol is a Diesel version and I think the petrol cable is routed differently.

Regards Mike

Hi there,

I once had a Lada that just couldn't cope with the condensation caused by the haar that sweeps in off the North Sea in Aberdeen and on many mornings I had to take the distributor cap up to the flat and dry it out in the oven.

One evening I had a brain wave when standing in my local pub toilet where the "machine on the wall" was selling exotic condoms; and one of the designs featured what looked like a tiny glove on the end.

I bought one and the very next day fitted it to the distributor head of the Lada (one main lead and four spark-plug leads) and it worked perfectly.

May I suggest that a similar arrangement could be used on that clutch cable?

You wouldn't even need an exotic design!

Best regards,

Ian

PS I have often wondered if the man I sold the Lada to ever went to a garage to get a replacement part!

Brilliant Ian,
years ago I used to do the same on a Mini Distributor using a common Marigold glove. I think your solution is much more fun.
I can see the mechanic now raising the bonnet to be greeted by a condom.

Regards Mike