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Symphony: Switch on back of driver's seat on

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Post by mike.armstrong Tue Jul 17, 2012 3:40 pm

Hi all,
We've just acquired a 1998 Autosleeper Symphony and I'm slowly working it all out.
There's a switch on the back of the plinth that supports the driver's seat with a red light on it - what does it do?! I'm guessing it's related to the leisure battery under that seat but I can't suss it out.
Any and all tips would be appreciated.
Cheers
-Mike
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Post by Bartfarst Tue Jul 17, 2012 6:50 pm

Hi Mike,

Welcome to the forum. Please take time to introduce yourself to the group on this page: [You must be registered and logged in to see this link.]

I suspect that the switch you mention is not AS original equipment but was added by a previous owner. It probably relates to the leisure battery under the drivers seat in some way, or one of the feeds from it. The driver's seat platform is relatively easy to remove - just four hex head countersunk screws - then you will be able to gain access to the battery compartment with ease and hopefully suss-out the wiring.

Bartfarst

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Post by mike.armstrong Tue Jul 17, 2012 9:28 pm

Thanks Bartfast,
I assume that the switch is original equipment as it matches the design of the 240V plug sockets and the master switches in the cupboard under the cooker for the water heater and the battery charger...though I suppose the previous owner might have just done a good job of sourcing parts!
Thanks for your thoughts - if nothing else pops up here by the weekend I'll have a delve and see if I can suss it out - I hate tracing wiring though!
Cheers
-Mike
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Post by chrisvesey Tue Jul 17, 2012 9:41 pm

Hi,
You could try switching it off to see what doesn't work snigger
Chris
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Post by boxerman Wed Jul 18, 2012 10:06 am

mike.armstrong wrote:Thanks Bartfast,
I assume that the switch is original equipment as it matches the design of the 240V plug sockets and the master switches in the cupboard under the cooker for the water heater and the battery charger...though I suppose the previous owner might have just done a good job of sourcing parts!
Thanks for your thoughts - if nothing else pops up here by the weekend I'll have a delve and see if I can suss it out - I hate tracing wiring though!
Cheers
-Mike
My 1995 Symphony doesn't have a switch there so unless it's an addition on later models, it must be a mod.
Finding matching switches, sockets etc. is no problem, most motorhome/caravan accessory shops will have them, they're pretty standard.

Frank
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Post by Paul RG Thu Jul 19, 2012 12:28 am

Just a though after reading about this unknown switch. Try this switch of ignition, then turn on switch and see if radio works "Im thinking of do this to my Symbol" Hope this helps Paul RG allthumbz
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Post by mike.armstrong Thu Jul 19, 2012 9:35 pm

Paul RG wrote:Just a though after reading about this unknown switch. Try this switch of ignition, then turn on switch and see if radio works "Im thinking of do this to my Symbol" Hope this helps Paul RG

Good idea Paul - but that's not it!

I've had a quick glance tonight while removing the battery for a top-up of fluid and a charge. It seems to be a wire from one terminal to the other with a blade fuse in it's holder and this switch, now what's the point of that!?
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Post by bertb Thu Jul 19, 2012 10:32 pm

Wired like that it must be a fuse tester, "switch on-yes that ones' blown OK, next" allthumbz
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Post by SteveUK Fri Jul 20, 2012 12:52 am

Is it by any chance a switch to connect the starter battery to the leisure battery via a fuse? Could be to charge the engine battery while on mains hook-up? Fuse blows and isolates the connection if you forget to throw the switch before starting the engine.
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Post by roli Fri Jul 20, 2012 6:42 am

Try contacting the previous owner and ask them
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Post by BobK Fri Jul 20, 2012 10:27 am

mike.armstrong wrote:Thanks Bartfast,
I assume that the switch is original equipment as it matches the design of the 240V plug sockets and the master switches in the cupboard under the cooker for the water heater and the battery charger...though I suppose the previous owner might have just done a good job of sourcing parts!
Thanks for your thoughts - if nothing else pops up here by the weekend I'll have a delve and see if I can suss it out - I hate tracing wiring though!
Cheers
-Mike


The description sounded familiar so I checked my owners manual for the Rienza, as I have the switch as you describe, in the bottom cupboard of the cooker. The manual states that it operates the Truma Ultrastore but that is not the case on mine as the water heater has a seperate switch. . . My switch has been used as an isolating switch for the electric hob on the four burner cooker. It doesn't seem to isolate anything else. I'm sure you will have checked it but could it be that the switch with the red light under the cooker is for the hob and the mystery one on the back of the driver's seat is for the ultra store (or vice versa) scratch head

regards Bobk

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Post by mike.armstrong Fri Jul 20, 2012 2:26 pm

SteveUK wrote:Is it by any chance a switch to connect the starter battery to the leisure battery via a fuse? Could be to charge the engine battery while on mains hook-up? Fuse blows and isolates the connection if you forget to throw the switch before starting the engine.

Ooh, nice idea - I'll have a delve. Thanks
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Post by mike.armstrong Fri Jul 20, 2012 2:30 pm

BobK wrote:
The description sounded familiar so I checked my owners manual for the Rienza, as I have the switch as you describe, in the bottom cupboard of the cooker. The manual states that it operates the Truma Ultrastore but that is not the case on mine as the water heater has a seperate switch. . . My switch has been used as an isolating switch for the electric hob on the four burner cooker. It doesn't seem to isolate anything else. I'm sure you will have checked it but could it be that the switch with the red light under the cooker is for the hob and the mystery one on the back of the driver's seat is for the ultra store (or vice versa) scratch head
regards Bobk

Thanks Bob,
The Symphony only has a two burner hob and they're both gas! The isolators in my under-oven cupboard are labelled for the battery charger and the water heater.
Thanks for your thoughts though - I'm amazed by the number of helpful people on this forum. You do all know that the internet is supposed to be used for being sarcastic and aggressive don't you? ;o)
Cheers
-Mike
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Post by Bartfarst Fri Jul 20, 2012 5:27 pm

mike.armstrong wrote:
SteveUK wrote:Is it by any chance a switch to connect the starter battery to the leisure battery via a fuse? Could be to charge the engine battery while on mains hook-up? Fuse blows and isolates the connection if you forget to throw the switch before starting the engine.
Ooh, nice idea - I'll have a delve. Thanks

I agree too. What a nice little project that would be. I envisage something a little more sphisticated than a fuse though - some sort of current trip would be nice. Any ideas techies?

One problem that I've encountered is that if you common the batteries and, say, the vehicle battery is flat, rather than current being drawn from the Zig unit charger, a large current is drawn from the leisure battery to charge the vehicle battery. The most that a Zig charger will deliver is 5 Amps so perhaps the leads from the Zig 12V output should be split beneath the driver's seat, each of which might have a 'load sharing' resistor and a diode in series so that one battery doesn't hog the charge current and so current can't go between the batteries. Does that sound reasonable? It is also possible to make a current limiter using the ubiquitous "Three Leg Reg" IC such as a 7812 or another member of the 78xx series. This woild probably obviate the need for a diode too.

Another add-on would be a connection to a solar panel to provide a trickle charge.

Again, do others with solder in their carpets have any ideas?


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Post by mike.armstrong Wed Jul 25, 2012 9:45 am

SteveUK wrote:Is it by any chance a switch to connect the starter battery to the leisure battery via a fuse? Could be to charge the engine battery while on mains hook-up? Fuse blows and isolates the connection if you forget to throw the switch before starting the engine.

I was really hopeful about this idea, but had a proper play last night and it's not it.

I'm getting 10V across my leisure battery (I know! I'm working on getting a new one on the warranty cos they promised a habitation service before delivery) and 12.5V on my starter battery. If I turn the battery charger on with the mystery switch off I get 13.5V across my leisure battery and still 12.5V on my starter. Turn the mystery switch on and...still 13.5V on the leisure battery and 12.5V on the starter.

Back to the drawing board!
Cheers
-Mike
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Post by RML Wed Jul 25, 2012 7:20 pm

Try measuring the voltage across the switch connections in all positions with the charger on and off.
Rich.. scratch head
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Post by murph Thu Jul 26, 2012 9:40 am

Hi Bob,
You have enlightened me on something, we have a switch under our cooker and in spite of owning the van for over 2 years I have never known what it was for, as Mrs M does not use the electric hob, so that our cooker is effectively a 3 burner, just tried it and bingo that is it, and there is another isolating switch behind the lower grill for the fridge.

Brian2
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Post by mike.armstrong Mon Jul 30, 2012 12:08 pm

Right, I've finally made/found time to have a proper look into this and traced the wire back, through the bodywork, to a pair of spade connectors hanging down near the waste water outlet. They were already on the list for investigation - so it's two birds with one stone!
I assume that it was for connecting a solar panel to keep the leisure battery topped up, but the connectors were dangling in a way that I didn't like, and were filthy and corroded too, so I've ripped the whole lot out and sealed up the holes.
Thanks again for all of your ideas
Cheers
-Mike
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Post by Paulmold Mon Jul 30, 2012 1:58 pm

It could have been used as a 12v supply for a summersible pump to fill the fresh water from a water container. I have seen some motorhomes/caravans with a small 2-pin socket on the outside for this purpose. Bit late now you've removed it but perhaps an idea for the future but a proper job not daggling spade connectors.
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