Nuevo rear door not central locking

On a short break on the Isle of Wight and the rear door on our 2011 Nuevo EK will not lock or unlock using the remote key fob. The front doors work fine. Fortunately I have brought the spare key so I can lock it manually.
Has anyone had this happen and is there a cure? It is going in for a habitation check soon so I wil ask my dealer to fix it under the warranty but wondered if there was something I could do to get it working again meantime?

Hi Moggy... the central locking on the hab door does seem to be rather flaky, despite Auto-Sleepers looking at ours on two separate visits. They tried fixing it by cleaning the contacts and checking the alignment which seemed to do the trick but we still occasionally have the same problem. Sometimes it will go days without any problems, then it will suddenly start playing up for no apparent reason... for example I went out earlier this evening to get something out of the van and had the same trouble as you and had to use the door key!! So do let me know how you get on? as we may consider trying to get ours replaced if it still keeps playing up, will check again with the service centre when we are next there in a couple of weeks time to see whats involved and costs.

CC

CruizingComet wrote:Hi Moggy... the central locking on the hab door does seem to be rather flaky, despite Auto-Sleepers looking at ours on two separate visits. They tried fixing it by cleaning the contacts and checking the alignment which seemed to do the trick but we still occasionally have the same problem. Sometimes it will go days without any problems, then it will suddenly start playing up for no apparent reason... for example I went out earlier this evening to get something out of the van and had the same trouble as you and had to use the door key!! So do let me know how you get on? as we may consider trying to get ours replaced if it still keeps playing up, will check again with the service centre when we are next there in a couple of weeks time to see whats involved and costs.

CC

Thanks CC glad I am not the only one having trouble. Will let you know how we get on after the hab check. Have got a few problems I want sorting. Just keeping my head up and carrying on!!

moggyminor1966 wrote: Have got a few problems I want sorting. Just keeping my head up and carrying on!!

Sometimes it's the only way Moggy

Good luck getting it sorted mate

CC

CruizingComet wrote:

moggyminor1966 wrote: Have got a few problems I want sorting. Just keeping my head up and carrying on!!

Sometimes it's the only way Moggy

Good luck getting it sorted mate

CC

Went out this morning had to lock it with the key so when we came back tried it with the remote and it unlocked! Just think it is going to be a bit temperamental but will still get it checked.

That's exactly what happens with ours Moggy... no rhyme or reason as to why it plays up, it just does... have wondered if it's to do with being parked unlevel as we seem mostly to have this problem on the driveway more than anywhere, have added it to our list for AS to look at when we next take it in again.

CC

I had the same problem take the top cover off to expose the wire fitting the contacts and you may find that with closing the door the contacts have come adrift I cured mine by soldering the wires to the contacts No more problems .

Nuevo II EK wrote:I had the same problem take the top cover off to expose the wire fitting the contacts and you may find that with closing the door the contacts have come adrift I cured mine by soldering the wires to the contacts No more problems .

Thanks for reply could you please advise which is the top cover I need to remove if possible could you post a photo. Thanks

Stand in the motorhome facing the hab door there are 2 locking points on the left hand side its the upper one you need to look at , on the door frame there is a light grey coloured plastic cover over the locking mechanism held by 2 screws the screw heads are covered by small plastic grommits . Remove the grommits and the screws pull away the grey cover and the other side of the contacts will be exposed you will then see the power wires to the contacts there are 3 contacts , but on mine only the upper 2 have power connections with very small push on connectors I removed the connecters and soldered the ends of the wire to the tabs on the contacts to prevent them coming off with continual use of the door.

Nuevo II EK wrote:Stand in the motorhome facing the hab door there are 2 locking points on the left hand side its the upper one you need to look at , on the door frame there is a light grey coloured plastic cover over the locking mechanism held by 2 screws the screw heads are covered by small plastic grommits . Remove the grommits and the screws pull away the grey cover and the other side of the contacts will be exposed you will then see the power wires to the contacts there are 3 contacts , but on mine only the upper 2 have power connections with very small push on connectors I removed the connecters and soldered the ends of the wire to the tabs on the contacts to prevent them coming off with continual use of the door.

Thanks for that. Our. Nuevo is going in for a hab. Check soon and. It s still under warranty I will ask our dealer to sort it. Will be interesting to see what they say! If It plays up outside the warranty I can then do as you suggest and in the meantime I will use the key.

I had the same problem on my newly acquired November 2010 Marquess Lancashire (Auto-Sleeper Nuevo) which I recently acquired.

It was diagnosed as that outlined in "Nuevo II EK" post and subsequently fixed by Brownhills of Birtley as an approved warranty claim.

Apparently this is a well recognised defect by a range of manufacturers and as a consequence I understand they are required to rectify it even if the motorhome in question is out of warranty.

There may of course be other reasons why central locking may not operate on the habitation door but this seems to be the major cause.

When deadlocking the cab doors using the 3 button Peugeot key Brownhills advise that this would not deadlock the habitation door which from a fire safety point of view is probably just as well.

However since the fix on one occasion habitation door has deadlock. Does anybody know the reason for this.

Wearsider wrote:I had the same problem on my newly acquired November 2010 Marquess Lancashire (Auto-Sleeper Nuevo) which I recently acquired.

It was diagnosed as that outlined in "Nuevo II EK" post and subsequently fixed by Brownhills of Birtley as an approved warranty claim.

Apparently this is a well recognised defect by a range of manufacturers and as a consequence I understand they are required to rectify it even if the motorhome in question is out of warranty.

There may of course be other reasons why central locking may not operate on the habitation door but this seems to be the major cause.

When deadlocking the cab doors using the 3 button Peugeot key Brownhills advise that this would not deadlock the habitation door which from a fire safety point of view is probably just as well.


However since the fix on one occasion habitation door has deadlock. Does anybody know the reason for this.

Hi wearsider and welcome to this great forum. Your comments are very interesting and if as you say the problem is recognised then I am surprised Autosleepers have not brought out a fix. Hopefully my dealer will sort it.

Decided to whip the grey cover off today and the black lead had come off so I shoved it back on and it works now. Will still tell my dealer to sort it as I am sure it will come off again as the wire moves in as the door strikes the spring loaded pins.

Got tee'd off today with my hab door and decided to take things apart.
Internal wiring (the two black ones) were still in place on the two lower spring loaded pins but the bolts took over half a turn each.
Not surprised since there is no locking washer of any sort.
Hmmm...why are designers moving backwards at such a rate of knots.....smooth washers in a vibrating environment,... plated steel low voltage contacts,....etc? (Never mind reverse gears as high as second!)
No joy.....still intermittent locking/unlocking.
It was then that the cogs in the old grey matter started to turn...............Nuevo IIEK had certainly zeroed in on the problem, but for others, the problem could equally be in the wiring on the other side. i.e. the contacts and associated wiring in the door.

Thankfully, I remembered to spread a large sheet on the ground before nipping up the steps. Armed with a No.3 Philips, out came the two screws holding the mating three pin assembly on the door and out dropped loads of little bits. BINGO!!!!
After much scrabbling on hands and knees the problem soon revealed itself. The same poor design......tinned wires trapped under smooth washers....absolutely ridiculous. I dispensed with the washers and wrapped the tinned wires around the tiny bolts and screwed them firmly home. I'm hoping the compressed solder will give enough grip to lock.........time will tell.
Derek

Hi All,
Our hab door is not included in the our self lock system, but the last post advising of insecured nuts and bolts in the mechanism brought to mind somthing from my Kart racing days. Namely locktite, available under several different names, this is a liquid which solidifies in the thread and forms a very efficient lock, it used to be available in several grades (I dont know about now,) he mildest one being suitable for slotted screws and stronger grades are suited to hexegon bolts etc.

Brian2

Had the same problem on our Suffolk on 2 occasions but fixed by Marquis in around 15 minutes each time, workshop forman when told of fault said at once "I know what that is" so it must be a fault across the range of vehicles, I will remember the tip about removing the cover to check for loose wires many thanks.
Don

We have this some times. I fiind that if I remotely unlock the front cab doors then use the remote lock button this usually locks all doors. also the door will not lock if it is not quite closed fully so worth opening then firmly reclosing door to try again. And if a front door is not fully closed, although not visibly open, it affects the remote locking, so open & firmly close them.

Yes, we have to make sure that our hab door is firmly shut just to be sure. Apart rom that, no problems

We have had our habitation door and central locking adjusted again while at the AS service centre a few days ago (been done several times now) a few days before our trip to North Wales our top catch broke, (no doubt due to slamming the door shut) AS fixed it but it was broke again as soon as we arrived in Wales so arranged with them to fit two new top and bottom catches. After the catches were fitted and everything adjusted I was told by the fitter it was OK only to find as he was demonstrating how the central locking "now worked" it failed again! Another attempt and it seemed OK although I was advised to give it a good slam to make sure the CL was making contact, after getting inside the van to try again myself I was unhappy that the door could be pushed in and out at the top by a good 2mm and with visions of door rattles while driving I told them I still wasn't happy, so after two more attempts at adjusting the door and catches they have got it as good as it's likely to get realistically and providing you shut it hard (yes, by slamming it) it does open & lock with the fob (for how long though remains to be seen) getting fed up of constantly having this problem so I thought stuff it... we'll just get another new door fitted but they quoted £1,200 + vat so not really an option at that price....

CC,
Replacing the door won't cure the problem (unless your existing one is actually warped), the electrics and the type of contacts will still remain the same.
If they had been upgraded, then surely all they have to do to cure the problems is just fit the upgraded items.
For well over 100yrs now, everybody has known that copper, or a copper based alloy, is favourite for a low voltage contact in a vehicle. Once a company decides (presumably on cost grounds) to dispense with that, they chuck quality and reliability out of the window.............and their reputation!
Derek

Hi Derek... I only considered a new door as it's been a pain since we have owned the vehicle, it's well documented than many of the doors were poorly fitted around the time our Nuevo was built, the doors are said to have prematurely deteriorated due to being poorly adjusted when fitted from new. What's really annoying is the previous owner could have had the door adjusted under warranty but chose not to for whatever reason this probably explains why we have already had both the top and bottom catches replaced due to premature wear which I put down to the constant slamming of the door.

The thought of having a new door appealed because I would then expect it to shut without having to be slammed and for the central locking to work each time as well, otherwise it would have to be corrected... (also was thinking this might be covered under warranty) as per my earlier post it's been adjusted a number of times and is now the best it's been, the central locking does work providing it's closed hard enough so it's an issue with the door contacts not making contact with the frame contacts on ours that causes the central locking to not fully function.

CC

Now that I've finally got my lights & fob to speak to each other my bl**dy habitation door lock is playing up, as above.

NURSE.....!!!!!

CC,
The point I was trying to make is that in all of these instances we are dealing with a very simple series of electro/mechanical interfaces.
In order these are:
1 The integrity of the wiring to the moving contacts on the door frame.
2 The unsuitability of the contact material to transmit low voltage.
3 The integrity of the wiring to the fixed contacts on the door.
4 The electro/mechanical switching inside the door.

Earlier posts show that for some members, investigating and correcting No 1 has effected a cure, whilst others will have to progress further down the diagnostic chain.
In my case, all of the first three were at fault. I excluded No 4 by the simple means of using jump leads to bypass 1, 2 & 3. I then rewired both sets of contacts and stoned their faces.
I would suggest that in your case, maximum throw of the arm on the door by physical adjustment has failed to effect a cure, therefore the problem would be electrical.
Given the scant regard for good practice at 1, 2 & 3, I would also suggest that Seitz have used the same 'quality' on the door lock.
The main problem that we face is the fact that Seitz have given us poor mortals no easy access to the mechanism to check.

Has an engineer actually removed the fixings on your door, removed the inner skin and checked for electrical continuity internally?

Derek