Hartal habitation door central locking

Can anybody point me the right direction for this.

The central locking on the Hartal door has stopped working, lock works fine with the key and I can hear something happening when the fob is pressed but no movement of the lock, so possibly some linkage loose or broken. 

Not taken the door inner panel off yet, from photos I’ve seen the innards seems somewhat complicated.

Has anyone got ideas what I should be looking for?

Many thanks, Mike.

Hi Mike

This may sound daft, and it probably won't fix the problem, but it will only take a second.

Try moving the inner door handle to the opposite of what it is now. That is, if it's locked, manually open it . . . or the reverse. Then press the fob.

According to our tame Mr Fixit, the doors work on a simple flip/flop mechanism, which can sometimes get out of synch.

Probably won't work, but if it does I don't much like lager! 

Thanks Dave, but I think I tried in all combinations yesterday, van is in storage so I will do as you suggest in a more organised fashion when I go during the week, before I get the screwdriver out.

So if doesn’t work you’ll have a larger!

Mike

Good luck.

I suspect you will have to delve into the innards, but it's always worth trying anything quick and simple first.

The central locking on my Hartal door stopped working. One of the wires at the rear of the ‘plunger’ contacts had come adrift.

Easily checked by removing the two screws and is worth checking before carrying out major surgery.

I understand you’re hearing something happening but check the contact wiring first.

Thanks StewPotch I’ll certainly give that a check over first.

Mike

They corrode as well Mike, so a gentle caress with some very fine emery where the contacts meet might also help.

Dave

There are a couple of bowden (like bike brake) cables inside the overly complicated door than can be adjusted. One of them may be your solution.

Thanks Jansellsbond, at least I now have some ideas where to start looking for the problem, very grateful for peoples suggestions, I’ll update when I’ve had a look at it and hopefully fixed it.

Mike

You may have a problem with the actuator solenoid. Mine failed and I had to replace it a year or two ago.

Had a look at it this morning the lock mechanism all working fine with no stiffness or any other problem. The actuator struggling to work, when removed from the door it does work but doesn’t seem To have the power to do its job.

So it looks like a new actuator is required, where did you get yours from Ron?
A quick look online they seem to be 2 or 5 wire, but mine has 3, couldn’t see any markings on it.

Mike

Sorry Mike, it was quite a time ago and I can't find the bill.

Thanks for looking, Ron. 

Mike

Autosleepers should stock them.  They certainly have the springs which can go.
You need your job number from inside the glove box and ring the parts department. It is possible that they will only have the full mechanism at about £300 wish.  They are pretty good at locating the correct part if they stock it.
I am a little surprised that it just became weak. More likely seems to me to be a wire partly detached or corroded somewhere increasing the resistance. Or possibly friction in the mechanism.

Thanks for your thoughts Safariboy, Yes I would have thought they are the type of thing that either works or doesn’t. I didn’t have my multimeter with me so couldn’t fully check the electrical connections only visually. Mechanically everything was working properly and easily. I’ll check electrics next when I remember to take my multimeter.

It looks like the standard size of generic actuators available for under £10 with the exception it has 3 wires instead of the 2 on the usual slave actuators, not sure what that extra wire is for.

Mike

I seemed to find that the hab door locking or not locking  ( it does it when it feels like it  or unlock at its own volition even when selecting the radio on this am when parked up )  May to do with the voltage of the battery me thinks .  I did have it disconnected from the system some months ago so it operated on the key only  which worked well for us  but someone’s reconnected it ! Doh!

inspiredron wrote:You may have a problem with the actuator solenoid. Mine failed and I had to replace it a year or two ago.

Same on ours. Unfortunately we can’t remember where we got it either.

Nlora

I have now a working lock, well I have had for the last week but only just got round to updating this thread. First of all the actuators I could find had either 5 wires or 2 (master or slave units) mine had 3, and the hole at the end of the piston was round rather than the oval on mine. Otherwise they were identical in size, mounting holes and reach of piston. After tracing the wires, they connected to 5 wire loom that run through the door, out the bottom and behind the fridge, through the fridge vent hole I found that only 2 of the wires were connected into the van loom, so ordered the 2wire version at £5.

The existing actuator is fixed with two 3mm bolts screwed into the backing plate. To test the new one I just fixed it with the top bolt, Hartal had not been consistent in connecting same coloured wires together so first time round I was locking the door when I thought I was unlocking and vice versa.

The actuator piston moves in and out only, whereas the peg it attaches to has some movement side to side, which may have contributed to the failure so I decided to try a secure fix with one bolt to allow the actuator to move sideways when operated

The new unit worked but must be slightly shorter in reach as it didn’t allow free play for the inside handle to release the claws that hold the door shut, so I drilled a new mounting hole about 5mm below the existing one, this worked but the door when unlocked also physically opened the door. This is were the oval hole in the piece on the end of the old piston comes in to allow unlocking without pulling on the door opening lever. I elongated the hole in the new one towards the piston shaft where it was thicker to avoid weakening it.

Finally it all worked as it should. The actuator was fixed to the backplate only at top with a bolt with two nuts locked together, I would have used some loctite if I knew where it was! I will check after some use if the fixing is still secure.



This photo is of the old actuator.
 I did find on line on one of the sites that sell parts a Hartal door lock motor at just over £90 but with no picture so not certain if it is the correct part.

Another member asked while I had the door inner cover off to photograph the position of the springs on the claw as he had to replace them, I will post them in a separate thread in case they are of help to others.

Mike

Well done sir Looks like a job well done, glad you found a solution. Thanks for coming back to let us know how it panned out

Philrobson497

https://www.autosleeper-ownersforum.com/f36-asof-welcome-section-new-members-please-introduce-yourself-here

I notice you have a Bailey. This forum is for Auto-Sleeper owners, others are welcome but you won't get answers specific to a Bailey.