Removal of Sargent EC500

As I mentioned in another post I have had the Sargent EC500 out to fix a bad connection to the solar panel. One thing I discovered is that I cannot get the panel out as wood trim is stopping it. I'm concerned that if I need to replace this, or I need to access the wiring behind, I won't be able to do it.

I've attached a photo so you can see what I mean.

I was wondering if anyone with a Broadway EB has had the same issue, and how the panel was removed / the wiring accessed? I'm wondering if the only way to do this is to remove the fridge next to it.

Cheers

Gary

WoW!  What muppet designed that, surely the van doesn't need dismantling???
  Can the unit be lifted or moved back or side to side?  If so I  wonder if the shelf above can be lifted & the unit tilted & lifted up & out.
Sorry, I have a different van, just thinking ideas.

modelman wrote:WoW!  What muppet designed that, surely the van doesn't need dismantling???
  Can the unit be lifted or moved back or side to side?  If so I  wonder if the shelf above can be lifted & the unit tilted & lifted up & out.
Sorry, I have a different van, just thinking ideas.

There is no slack in this anywhere. In the photo it is as far out as I can get it, and when you push it back in it is in the position it is fixed into the unit. There is a hole in the unit that is just the right size so no left or right movement either.

I've looked at the shelf above, and can't see an obvious way of getting this off either. Even if I did it couldn't be lifted upwards because of the hole - I'd probably have to cut it out!

As its shown in the photo, this is the best access I can get......

burlingtonboaby wrote:I was going to say, send the query to A/S workshop, however they seem to be still closed.
Don't know who the workshop guy is there now, but Mark used to be able to put you right track.
Boaby

Yes - my thought too..... I only collected the van in March and have a long list of questions building up for AS...

You have my sympathies - I have not-so-fond memories of removing/resealing the roof windows in my old Flair (built in 1999), and finding that the wardrobe overlapped the window by half an inch!

However, I suspect that the shelf above will be removable with a sharp upward tap. Once that's out you should be able to lift it enough to disconnect the cables (by feel) and then hopefully it will lift up and there will be enough space above to turn it and get it out, left hand edge first.

I say this, not because I know your van in any detail at all, but because A/S must know that an EC500 could fail under warranty, and they would not want to land themselves with having to pay the manhour cost of completely removing the cupboard!

I’ve got a 67 EB. I’ve just had a look.... there are 2 plastic covers on the underside of the shelf which pop off revealing an ikea type cross header fastener.  ( on left hand side of ec500 cupboard) Take the table out and there are 2 sponge deco covers , remove them to reveal the male fitment. Unscrew and remove. The fridge side will probably need the fridge to be removed in a similar manner.

Roopert wrote:You have my sympathies - I have not-so-fond memories of removing/resealing the roof windows in my old Flair (built in 1999), and finding that the wardrobe overlapped the window by half an inch!

However, I suspect that the shelf above will be removable with a sharp upward tap. Once that's out you should be able to lift it enough to disconnect the cables (by feel) and then hopefully it will lift up and there will be enough space above to turn it and get it out, left hand edge first.

I say this, not because I know your van in any detail at all, but because A/S must know that an EC500 could fail under warranty, and they would not want to land themselves with having to pay the manhour cost of completely removing the cupboard!

Thanks for replying - unfortunately the shelf is fixed and a tap won't do it 

pagetheoracle wrote:I’ve got a 67 EB. I’ve just had a look.... there are 2 plastic covers on the underside of the shelf which pop off revealing an ikea type cross header fastener.  ( on left hand side of ec500 cupboard) Take the table out and there are 2 sponge deco covers , remove them to reveal the male fitment. Unscrew and remove. The fridge side will probably need the fridge to be removed in a similar manner.

Thanks for replying. I went out and looked at these - the seem to connect the shelf to the side panel where the table pullout is and the divider to the fridge. I've undone these and the shelf won't budge. Looking at them the panels pull sideways, so can't be moved without either moving the fridge, or the table pullout (which in turn is connected to the pull out bed!).

In the table pullout there are also a series of 4 screws that seem to go into the front panel where the door to the cupboard is mounted. I don't see any other connectors.

I had a good look again and I'm thinking the only way is to take out the fridge, but I'm wondering if there will be an opening if I do.

Oh, and where the EC500 is mounted there are 4 more 'Ikea' type covers. I think they might connect the panel the unit is mounted to with the upper and lower shelves. 

I ve had another look and agree your findings. I think removing the fridge would be right to give access the the right hand side shelf fasteners. There are 4 white stoppers that pop off to reveal a deep seated pz2 screw. I’d pull it out gently as there will be a semi rigid gas pipe connected. The work top looks fastened down with the ikea fasteners and May have to come off to give better access. The mastic looks v thin and should be easy to reapply once done. Hopefully via the fridge disassembly route you con leave the bed box and frame in situ.

is a (upto June) 2017 van not still under warranty?

A-S have never considered the customer when fitting units. As long as they are in that’ll do! Two examples, with the new Truma combi fitted to the  coachbuilts, try getting acces to the reset button. Take out drawer under wardrobe, wriggle your top half in, prise cover off control unit, get back out, acquire small mirror and ballpoint pen and torch. Get back in, with torch in teeth, mirror and pen in hands. Use mirror to see reset button and press with point of pen. Withdraw, not forgetting to replace cover. 
If any older members can recall the Transit based Pescara, it had the same basic layout as a Broadway, but being so much older used a Zig unit for electrical control. Now my Zig unit failed well out of warranty so I set to replacing it. Got new unit and started on job. Where is it installed? After a fruitless search, I gave up and asked the dealer, he said that he thought it might be under the wardrobe floor. Ok thinks I that should be easy enough but the floor was fixed, so I rang Willersey and they confirmed that yes it was under the floor which would have to be cut out! Ho hum. I forget now what I used but out came the floor and there was the unit. Straightforward job but even then they didn’t make it easy, so I made up a simple sub frame that all gave good access and fitted supports for the floor.
The designers should be made to work on these things before they ever get to the production stage.

Hello Gary gpilky, 
Did you ever manage to remove the Sargent on your BWay EB? I have to do the same on mine I think. 
Solar it delivering 25V+ at source, yet the Sargent is using more Amps to power itself than it is reporting the solar is delivering to it. So something not right. But, until can access rear of Sargent of terminal ends of the panel at the controller, I too am stuck.
Nathan.

“yet the Sargent is using more Amps to power itself than it is reporting the solar is delivering to it.”


Welcome to something that many of us with the EC500/700 are very familiar with. There are many threads on the subject, fitting a new efficient solar controller that bypasses the EC500 completely is a good start!

Dbvwt wrote:“yet the Sargent is using more Amps to power itself than it is reporting the solar is delivering to it.”


Welcome to something that many of us with the EC500/700 are very familiar with. There are many threads on the subject, fitting a new efficient solar controller that bypasses the EC500 completely is a good start!

Yes indeed, as a new-joiner to ASOF I've been reading/digesting all those threads. If that's the route to go down then I'd like to find the other end of the cable from my solar and to do that I need to remove the EC500. Naturally I would rather be told of the "simple way" in preference to dismantling the cabinetry.

Even with a small gap you should be able to get your hand in and unclip the solar cable connector from the back of the EC500.
I’m away at present so can’t give much help but I’m sure others will be able to.

Dbvwt wrote:Even with a small gap you should be able to get your hand in and unclip the solar cable connector from the back of the EC500.
I’m away at present so can’t give much help but I’m sure others will be able to.

I can confirm that you can get to the solar cable through the gap - I had a poor connection that I fixed by attaching an extension to this (to take the tension off the loom). You can also see the solar controller. I've still not worked out how to remove the controller without destroying the woodwork though.......

Thanks Dbvwt, your combined posts today has cleared some fog from my brain to maybe in the not too distant  future, consider doing as you indicate, fitting a more efficient solar controller to end our woes of flat starter batteries during the gloom of winters past.

gpilky,
No problem just leaving the existing controller in place but if I remember, mine just slid out without too much trouble.

Paramedic wrote:Thanks Dbvwt, your combined posts today has cleared some fog from my brain to maybe in the not too distant  future, consider doing as you indicate, fitting a more efficient solar controller to end our woes of flat starter batteries during the gloom of winters past.

I thought you had done ‘the solar mod’ long ago Paramedic. Definitely recommended.

We’re just down the road from you in Pagham for the week having a lovely time, been so lucky with the weather. If I can help in any way regards the mod, give me a shout.

Can't understand autosleeper  logic  they tell you not to obstruct vents on main unit  but they fit it in the unvented wardrobe over the heater