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Rear door blinds Kemerton XL

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Post by BazJools Thu 17 Oct 2019 - 16:52

Hi All, 
Just wondering if anyone can advise on removing a damaged pleated blind from the rear door. It's become skewed and appears that a cord is either broken or has become detached so I need to remove it to see whats happened and hopefully repair. It looks as though the plastic corner pieces just pull off but they are very tight and I don't want to break anything by forcing them. Also I'm not sure if the rear door panel will need removing to get it out.
A search of the forum revealed a useful post with a post from PaulMold with a link to a repair article ( [You must be registered and logged in to see this link.] ) but mine are slightly different. Strange but I can't find a manufacturer's name on them.
Any advice gratefully received.
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Post by Dbvwt Thu 17 Oct 2019 - 17:17

Stick a photo on if you can Baz (to compare) and I may be able to help.
I removed the rear door panel when fitting my Thule bike rack and while I was at it sound deadened and insulated the back doors and also had a good look at the blind to see if any improvements could be made to it while it was out.
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Post by PLOUGHLIN Thu 17 Oct 2019 - 17:29

Does it look like this one? If so installation instructions here (scroll down) [You must be registered and logged in to see this link.]

Looks like the 4 corners slide off, pull towards you.

Rear door blinds Kemerton XL Dometic_car-plissee-blinds_9104116018_63270_11

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Post by Dbvwt Thu 17 Oct 2019 - 17:40

Excuse the poor picture but does it look like this? Is that the same one Ploughlin?
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Post by Kemerton-bath Thu 17 Oct 2019 - 18:03

I've no idea what make our rear door blind cassettes are, but I do know that the plastic corner covers do not reveal any fixings when prised off.  Our blinds are attached to black plastic panels that are screwed into the door window frames.  If yours are the same you'll find two screws at the top and bottom of the black panels, covered with snap-on black plastic covers.  The photo below shows the top fixings.

It's easy enough to prise them off and undo the screws.  I think you'll then find the cassette is fixed through from the rear of the black panels.  Once you've removed the cassette from the black panel, thereby exposing the rear of the cassette, I imagine you'll be able to access the cords and their means of fixing.  It sounds as if one of them has come adrift.

Tim

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Post by Dbvwt Thu 17 Oct 2019 - 18:26

Exactly what I had to do on my Symbol Tim. Not sure if the Kemerton is different but I had to remove the tall rear door card in the first place, not difficult just a lot of screws!!
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Post by Kemerton-bath Thu 17 Oct 2019 - 20:20

Thankfully on the vans of the age ours is, the door cards only fit the lower section of each door and not around the windows.  The OP's door cards are more likely to be like yours, given the similar age of van.

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Post by Kemerton-bath Thu 17 Oct 2019 - 20:25

Dbvwt - off topic but one advantage of your full-height door cards over our version is that they must provide an extra layer of insulation.  Our rear doors are a massive cold spot in the van, and "help" to keep the temperature in the Kemerton's shower room around 4C lower than in the living space.

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Post by Dbvwt Thu 17 Oct 2019 - 20:32

Kemerton-bath wrote:Dbvwt - off topic but one advantage of your full-height door cards over our version is that they must provide an extra layer of insulation.  Our rear doors are a massive cold spot in the van, and "help" to keep the temperature in the Kemerton's shower room around 4C lower than in the living space.

Especially after I increased the insulation behind the panels while fitting the bike rack (making sure there was still drainage if ever the door leaked).
You wouldn’t believe - or probably you would - the pathetic insulation fitted by A/S!!
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Post by Kemerton-bath Thu 17 Oct 2019 - 21:11

Dbvwt wrote:
You wouldn’t believe - or probably you would - the pathetic insulation fitted by A/S!!

I would, sadly.  I plan to put more into the rear doors just as soon as I've found a source for automotive insulation that requires me not to buy it in bulk quantity!  Having recently removed the inner assembly of my 400x400 Remis roof vent (separate thread) I've seen all too clearly how little insulation is present even in the ceiling, which must be a major loss of heat alone.  While at the Dusseldorf van show recently we noted with interest a cut-away cross-section of a PVC by one of the German converters, showing much greater quantities of insulation, and most likely demanded by the large number of folks who use their vans for winter sports over there.  Different market, different conversion priorities, but it was the one aspect where we felt German vans were better than ours.

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Post by BazJools Thu 17 Oct 2019 - 22:43

Many thanks for all your replies. 
Blind looks similar to all the photos but will check it out properly tomorrow. 
May have to wait until the end of the monsoon season if the full length door panel needs removing.
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Post by Dbvwt Fri 18 Oct 2019 - 8:55

BazJools wrote:Many thanks for all your replies. 
Blind looks similar to all the photos but will check it out properly tomorrow. 
May have to wait until the end of the monsoon season if the full length door panel needs removing.

I took mine completely off as I was fitting the bike rack but to just remove the blind you may get away with removing just enough screws to unscrew and slide the blind out without completely removing the panel.
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Post by GP1069 Fri 18 Oct 2019 - 12:08

Kemerton-bath wrote:
Dbvwt wrote:
You wouldn’t believe - or probably you would - the pathetic insulation fitted by A/S!!

I would, sadly.  I plan to put more into the rear doors just as soon as I've found a source for automotive insulation that requires me not to buy it in bulk quantity!  Having recently removed the inner assembly of my 400x400 Remis roof vent (separate thread) I've seen all too clearly how little insulation is present even in the ceiling, which must be a major loss of heat alone.  While at the Dusseldorf van show recently we noted with interest a cut-away cross-section of a PVC by one of the German converters, showing much greater quantities of insulation, and most likely demanded by the large number of folks who use their vans for winter sports over there.  Different market, different conversion priorities, but it was the one aspect where we felt German vans were better than ou
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Post by Kemerton-bath Fri 18 Oct 2019 - 18:11

GP1069 - many thanks for those links Peter.  Just what I was looking for.

Tim

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Post by BazJools Sat 19 Oct 2019 - 16:49

Job completed after much head scratching over the correct routing of the blind cords. Removing the door card was made more difficult as apart from the multitude of screws some bright spark had glued it in places. The blind was attached as in Tim's photo. 
As others have mentioned the insulation in the door was pretty poor. Shortly after we got the van we had a damp patch on the other door which Mark at AS put down to condensation due to lack of insulation so I have ordered some more to install before replacing the door panel. 
Thanks to Peter for the link.
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