Electrolux 3-Way Fridge

I have just bought a 1992 VW T4 Trooper and the fridge isn't getting cold. I've tried it on 240v whilst hooked up to the mains and using gas. The gas appears to be igniting correctly. I say appears as the clicking stop and the light on the switch goes out.

I'd like to remove the fridge to see if there is power getting to the fridge when on mains and also to confirm that the pilot light is actually lighting.

My question is how is the fridge held in place, I can't see any screws inside the fridge or at the rear of the fridge after removing the vent cover.

Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks,

Andy

Typically these fridges are held in with 4 screws from the inside out, two on each side just inside the door, covered by plastic plugs.

You should be able to tell if the gas is lit, as there should be a sight glass hole in the back corner of the fridge through which you can see the flame.

If the fridge has not been run for a while then it may take a while (I would say leave it running on gas overnight to be sure) to get the internal circulation started - and the van must be reasonably level for it to work well on any power source.

With the upper outside vent off, you can test whether power is getting to either of the elements simply by turning it on, leaving it running for half an hour (or going for a longish drive round with the 12V element turned on) and then putting your hand in to touch the fins to see if they are warm. Be warned - they get pretty hot if it's been working for a while!

Have you tried lighting the cooker hob first ? after a minute or so, then try to light the fridge. gas seems to come through quicker after lighting the cooker.

Roopert wrote:Typically these fridges are held in with 4 screws from the inside out, two on each side just inside the door, covered by plastic plugs.

You should be able to tell if the gas is lit, as there should be a sight glass hole in the back corner of the fridge through which you can see the flame.

If the fridge has not been run for a while then it may take a while (I would say leave it running on gas overnight to be sure) to get the internal circulation started - and the van must be reasonably level for it to work well on any power source.

With the upper outside vent off, you can test whether power is getting to either of the elements simply by turning it on, leaving it running for half an hour (or going for a longish drive round with the 12V element turned on) and then putting your hand in to touch the fins to see if they are warm. Be warned - they get pretty hot if it's been working for a while!

I can't see any screws inside the door 

However I can now see that the gas is lit through the sight glass, which I hadn't spotted. 

I've been using a spirit level to ensure the van is level, I've not left the gas on all night but I did leave it switched on on hook up over night. I've got the upper vent cover off now so I'll leave it for a while and check the fins. 

Thanks for your help.

daisy mae wrote:Have you tried lighting the cooker hob first ? after a minute or so, then try to light the fridge. gas seems to come through quicker after lighting the cooker.

Thank you, the hob was the first thing I tested and was working correctly so the gas was pulling through. Also I've now found the sight hole and can see that the gas has ignited, as I had suspected. 

I'll probably follow the suggestion above and leave the gas on overnight and see if that works.

cornishrunner wrote:
I can't see any screws inside the door 

You won't, because as already said, they are covered by plastic plugs!

Roopert wrote:

cornishrunner wrote:
I can't see any screws inside the door 

You won't, because as already said, they are covered by plastic plugs!

 I looked closely for plastic covers.

Whilst the gas may be lighting, there may not be enough to get the fridge working properly. There are se earl YouTube videos that show the quote substantial difference between a flame when the gas jet is clear and when it has dust in it. At the age of your van it's highly likely the jet is partially blocked with fine dust. The gas burner can be accessed through the vents at the back of the fridge. There's really no need to remove it.
It is highly unusual for all three forms of energy to stop working at the same time, though again, the age of the van could mean the mains 240V element has broken. 
Usually if the energy sources exhibit heat at the top vent grille but the fridge doesn't chill, then it means the refrigerant isn't circulating. This is usually caused by the van not being level either fore and aft or side to side. Again, older fridges are more prone to this issue.

steamdrivenandy wrote:Whilst the gas may be lighting, there may not be enough to get the fridge working properly. There are se earl YouTube videos that show the quote substantial difference between a flame when the gas jet is clear and when it has dust in it. At the age of your van it's highly likely the jet is partially blocked with fine dust. The gas burner can be accessed through the vents at the back of the fridge. There's really no need to remove it.
It is highly unusual for all three forms of energy to stop working at the same time, though again, the age of the van could mean the mains 240V element has broken. 
Usually if the energy sources exhibit heat at the top vent grille but the fridge doesn't chill, then it means the refrigerant isn't circulating. This is usually caused by the van not being level either fore and aft or side to side. Again, older fridges are more prone to this issue.

Thanks for all the information.

The pipework leading into the cooling fins is hot, very hot! 

I've also spoken to an engineer this morning and have been told that the refrigerant can clump up if not used regularly preventing circulation. I've read on the T4 forum that rattling the pipes with a piece of wood can help getting it circulating, I'm going to give it a try.

I have found 3 screws on the outside of fridge (both sides), which when removed appear to be long enough to be securing the fridge. The fridge is still being held in place by something, I'll keep looking.

Years ago when we had caravans, we often took the fridge out and shook it, this was in the 80`s then stood it upside down, for a while. it worked really well after that.

We now have the fridges switched on all the time when on the drive and always on EHU. when at home.

Good luck.

There is often a wooden batten across the front base which will prevent it being pulled forward. Prior to 1996, Electrolux fridges only had a tolerance of  a 3 degree slope. If tapping the pipes doesn't work and you can get it out, turn it upside down, leave for 24 hours then right way up and if you're not stuck for time repeat after another 24 hours.
As for dust/rust particles on the jet, I can confirm that it doesn't take much to stop the fridge working. I've recently had mine serviced and jet cleaned in solvent and now working well. Do not under any circumstances poke anything in the jet hole to clear it, this will enlarge the jet and you'll have a flame thrower.

Just to close this one off, I did eventually manage to remove the fridge. The screws were well hidden two on one side low down inside a cupboard and a third on the other side behind the drivers seat. There was a fourth behind the drivers seat hidden beneath the cloth use to cover the woodwork. This one was so rusty it broke anyway.

As suggested I left the fridge upside down overnight and then let it settle the correct way up and it worked! It works great on 240v not so great on gas (ice box doesn't freeze) but good enough. I assume it's working on 12v but it's not on 12v long enough to really find out.

Thanks for all your tips!