Nuevo poor workmanship

Gef

My problems are/were not caused by switching the EC700 off before the Truma CP.  I take a mirror with me now and a head torch.  I was told by the dealer to hold the reset button down until the amber LED comes on.  There are 3 LEDs in a row close to the reset button - green, amber and red.  I don’t think I have actually seen the reset button, I feel for it with my finger.  The existence of the LEDs like the reset procedure is not in any document I have seen.

My drawer is tight to remove but it does not need undue force. No trace of scuffing around the aperture and certainly no snagging of materials. Dave's cutouts would be an improvement but I haven't got round to it.

Caraman
I have not seen led lights as like you it was feel around behind  the twin wires.  I believe faults are not in the book as they were not supposed to happen could be a surprise to autosleeper and truma.  I do not now your motorhome knowledge but on the first water heat of the season I alwys bleed from a tap after 10 mins as there is often an air pocket which stops heater getting to temp

Browsing through the AS Forum this morning I have found mention of non removable under wardrobe drawers from 2016. Some character has been doing this and damaging the timber runners in my case and for Dickie9, for some time, all for the sake of 3mm of scruffy plywood edging. Such operatives have no place in any operation and will never change.

Off topic which doesn't worry me at all, I have learned an awful lot on forums when off topic comments are made.

Caraman and I have been debating the Error 514 issue for a while and I wanted to find the Reset Switch, just in case I need to use it on that cold night in Timbukthree.
First I had to remove my fit once only drawer, then follow the instructions given by Caraman's dealer which included a photograph of the wrong Printed Circuit Board (PCB) with an arrow pointing to a Reset Switch which does not exist. I have found that my Combi 6 does not have a said switch, it has the same PCB as the photo the dealer used.


Above my PCB, photo taken today.

My conclusions are, that there are two versions of the Combi 6 used currently and for several years. Our research has found no references to this, only confusion in that some users say that Error 514 needs to be corrected by pressing the Reset Switch and others that if you leave it for 15 mins then press the big button on the Truma control it clears. Obviously Caraman and geff have Nuevo's 3 years apart that have  Combi 6 versions with a Reset Switch. Bailey of Bristol talk only of waiting 15 mins in there FAQ section.

Marconi
I had a new boiler fitted recently with truma control box but not with any control by app.  My previous boiler failed to work properly for 3 years do to one live wire not connected properly. A very long story.  The reset button is very small( pointy end of a biro) and behind and below  two wires to the left .

gef wrote:Marconi
I had a new boiler fitted recently with truma control box but not with any control by app.  My previous boiler failed to work properly for 3 years do to one live wire not connected properly. A very long story.  The reset button is very small( pointy end of a biro) and behind and below  two wires to the left .

Oh golly you have confused it more   

On the left, is that not the thermal cut out button. Caraman will tell us his Reset Button is on the right. That is looking at the PCB photo. When you limbo dance through the wardrobe door cut out and lean over the boiler that would be on the right. The Truma illustration of that is below, labelled 45.

Mine (Warwick Duo 2013) is exactly the same as in Marconi's photo. It has no reset button. Mine doesn't have a display of fault codes either. It's a case of watching the flash code - led flashes two batches of four mixed long and short flashes repeatedly. It's easier than it sounds to match the flashes to a list of flash codes. I have obtained a pdf as used by dealers to diagnose and list of actions for repair. They are numbered 1 -  255  so I can only guess code 514 possibly (possibly not, treat this as an example)) translates to code 214 on my list which says :
214: l.l.s.l.     s.l.l.s.   (s = short flash, l = long flash)
Fault: electronic fault.   Fault description: failure in electronic PCB
1st action : recheck fault code.  2nd action: restart heater.
3rd action : replace electronic PCB.

Sorry this is all rather wordy, but no reset button or code readout required.
I can't manage to share the list of codes and actions as its a pdf downloaded on my ancient Kindle, but always happy to look flash codes up for any forum member if it helps. The flash code saved me ££££'s by diagnosing combustion air motor drawing too high a current. Easy to replace myself once the problem was known.

Thanks postman

After a little thought I was pretty sure that gef was visualising the PCB as viewed from behind, not realising that I had used my new Panasonic 1G pixel Xray colour camera to photograph through the wall of the Nuevo, well, actually its all done with mirrors  .

I have found a 2019 list of engineer codes, not available for download, but I can overcome that with a little effort, they actually go up to 858.
Yes they are easy to read, I read them as Morse code your example is QP. Its well worth having them just in case.

Earlier I wrote :-
When you limbo dance through the wardrobe door cut out and lean over the boiler that would be on the right.
Of course that should read left.

To be honest I have to stand on my head to see mine, so it made perfect sense to me.

I have had to change  the 240V fuse (more difficult than the 12V one) .  Taking a photo with a mobile phone makes the job much clearer.
I have not discussed this with Autosleepers but wonder if taking the two air hoses that come out under the wardrobe and bringing them into the locker might help with the fuse problem. Looking at my heater it is so wound round with hoses that it it not surprising that it overheats,  It would also solve the problem that the air distribution is not good.

Safariboy, a different motor home to ours I know, but it's worth checking that all the flexi air ducts are securely attached to the heater outlet stubs. We had a problem with nearby water hoses going brittle and cracking - turned out to be due to hot air from a detached flexi in a rather inaccessible spot blowing on the pipes.

This topic came up on my newsfeed as I hadn't been on the forum for yonks. I feel for you finding out just how badly built these "hand built" coachbuilts are - my 2003 Clubman suffered from poor quality workman(person)ship so the problem isn't new. I documented it on this forum several times.
The fridge was held in by 1 screw, the others had missed there mark and as a result the fridge banged and clonked along the way. Electrical wires stretched around corners and chaffing, "sick" wood where overtightening screws or missing the mark was throughout the build. I could go on....................
I'm not knocking the design and materials used but the build quality was poor, especially in areas hidden by the "luxury" facade. Once I'd rectified these defects I had a quiet reliable van but this should not have been allowed to happen in the first place - non existent quality control. We've since moved onto an "inferior" brand in some eyes with a Renault based Lunar Telstar, Luner used to get slated for their build quality in the press and fora but in my opinion they built a better van than AS. Unfortunately the went down the tubes earlier this year after an unsuccessful "phoenix" arising.

Eltel wrote:Unfortunately teething problems happen.

I am sure it will be corrected 

Happy Motor homing

Eltel

Sorry to correct you, but these faults are NOT TEETHING PROBLEMS!!!!

I had over tightened screws cracking plastic trim on our 2007 Topaz.

When will they learn.

It was brought to the attention of Mr Curry, who agreed the remedial work and is still there.
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Richard

rgermain wrote:

Eltel wrote:brought to the attention of Mr Curry, who agreed the remedial work and is still there.

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Richard

Why wouldn't he still be there? He is the customer services manager.

Unfortunately I also experienced a lot of problems on my brandnew Kingham, delivered end of june 2019.
First of all I had tremendous delivery problems.
Filling the system with water we had a big water leak (water running through the camper underfloor) due to a connection which was poorly connected.
Lighting which was badly installed and therefor got damaged was not replaced but hidden behind the leisure battery.
The overflow of the leisure battery was not connected. (fortunately nothing happened with the battery).
Top roof window poorly installed resulting in water inserting on to the bed.
Kitchen sink was not fixed with screws.
The remis system on the front window was poorly attached (2 screws were just loose).
After 2 weeks the touchscreen panel broke down and had to be replaced.
One cover of a loudspeaker just fell out (poorly fixed).
The carpet cover around the bedroom window came loose below and above the window.
Besides these serious issues we had a lot of smaller ones.
Flydoor not installed.
Wrong colour of floor lighting.
Cabinets poorly aligned.
Dirty finger marks left in the camper.
Markings for screws were not removed after screws were placed (mainly in the bathroom).
Cabinet doors opened from themselves during driving (due to poor positioning of closing system).
Draws were rattling like crazy during driving because of poor adjustment.
The carpet don't fit properly.  Either it is cut wrong or the fixing parts are positioned wrong.
A long list of problems.  Fortunately I have a very good dealer who has already solved all the problems.
But this is not what I expect from a brandnew (and not cheap) campervan.
Quality control at AS is below any standard.  I can not believe that my Kingham had any final inspection whatsoever although it was standing around for weeks at AS because of a missing mattress.
By the way : a replacement mattress had been ordered locally by my dealer with a 24 hour service so that we could go on holiday as planned.
I am still very happy with the design of the Kingham and with all the features it has.  But if I ever will buy a AS again is very, very doubtfull.

Paulmold wrote:

rgermain wrote:

Eltel wrote:brought to the attention of Mr Curry, who agreed the remedial work and is still there.

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Richard

Why wouldn't he still be there? He is the customer services manager.

What I meant was he is still there so should recall early problems and maybe he would have kept an eye on things and you would have thought they would be sorted by now.

Well that was what I was trying to say anyway.
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Richard

I have to admit that I would expect the service dept to pick up regular problems and report them to the production team. Maybe Mark used to do that and got frustrated at nothing being done and maybe that's why he left after 30 years. I know that's a lot of maybes but maybe that's correct.

I've just checked my wardrobe drawer and it fits properly. I have taken it out a couple of times to see what's behind and underneath and although it was fiddly I didn't have to break anything. I checked the plywood wardrobe front frame just above the drawer and it is rough and un-sanded so I will probably see to that.
I'm not trying to sound as if I am saying A/S is perfect or even good.
The first thing I did when I found out it has a Whale Submersible pump was to dump it - or more accurately leave it in place, disconnect it and its pressure valve and fit a Shurflo pump. My opinion is that I think Whale Submersibles are designed to last two weeks. After ten years of use you can dismantle a Shurflo and replace small rubber valves and off you go for another ten years.
The next thing I did was to gawp at the plumbing and battery layout under the bench seat, and relocate it all in a sensible layout shortening pipes, and putting the leisure battery just in front of the wheel arch.
There are a few less-than-best things about my 2015 model, which had done 1,800 miles when I bought it a few months ago. One of the overhead locker doors has its plastic mock-wood finish shrunk away from the shiny strip leaving a brown wood-ish bit showing. It is noticeable as soon as you get into the lounge area. I might take it to the A/S stand at the NEC and ask them politely if they think it should be replaced.
Another trivial build-quality thing is the door latch on the washroom frame which is loose. That's about all really other than one zip on the bed seat pad has come undone along its length and cannot be re-zipped up. And the kitchen sink drain ran uphill before I fixed that.
Trivia like that I can put up with, (but why should we, on what is probably the most expensive make of Britiah motorhome?) In the recent 4 years I have dumped a new Rapido Motorhome Of The Year, because of a) its terrible build quality and b) its terrible electric bed. I became on first name email terms with the bed designer in Italy and the Rapido production manager in France trying to resolve the bed's never-ending problems. I got the design and installation manual for it and now I know how they work I will never go near an electric bed again.
Also I dumped another Rapido that I got to replace the first one because of several awful design features. Also a Pilote campervan because of terrible build quality and design items that I had to fix because it was easier than taking it back to the dealer.
My first AutoSleeper, in fact my first ever motorhome was an AutoSleeper VW LT28 panel van, one of those made of tree wood and brass hinges. They were proper quality and I reckon in fact the best motorhomes are from two or more decades ago.
I was told when looking around, by a Burstner dealer that the German way of producing motorhomes is that the factory workers get a bonus based on the number of vehicles that do not come back to the dealers with warranty claims. With all other British and European makes, the workers get a bonus according to the number of motorhomes they get out of the factory gates. Therefore German ones (in particular referring to his Burstner ones of course) have the least number of faults.
No one buying a car would expect to put up with the poor quality of the motorhomes we buy. With a car you wouldn't expect rattles and things that don't fit and things that go wrong as often as they do on motorhomes.  However of course you will never read about these faults in the press. It just goes to show that when looking at a motorhome you have to not only test everything but you should even get hold of a drawer on runners and check that it comes out without having to use Thor The Mighty Hammer.

Last week a neighbour had great pride in showing me his new Burstner, a quality build I must say. He had pleasure in pulling down the front overhead bed... as he did so the front trim just fell off. I know of a Laika ( now part of Hymer) where the toilet fell through the floor and met a Dutchman a couple of years ago taking his Neismann and Bischoff back to the factory for the fifth time after the windscreen fell out! There is no doubt A/S are not built to the quality a decent yacht but amongst motorhomes they must be a fair way up the table.
By contrast I have used RV's in Canada and they seem to be built much more ruggedly, the downside is that they weigh half as much again as European vans equivalents.
Its just one big compromise I am afraid

sorry to say everyone built over the last 10 years is a monday morning build.