Restoring acrylic bumpers

Hi there. The bumpers and other acrylic trim on my van are looking rather jaded and sad. Can anyone please recommend a good product to treat them and restore them. They were originally black but are now greyish. Cheers.

Loads of suggestions will now be forthcoming from shoe polish to linseed oil.

I am firmly in the boiled linseed oil camp. Takes very little time to rub on and buff off gives a really nice shine and lasts about 6 months. Beware though, it seeks through whatever cloth you use and if the oil touches your clothing it will be ruined

I think the bumpers are made of a sort of fibrous reinforced plastic, the Autsleeper panels are either ABS or GRP. You can apply all sorts of stuff to revive the bumpers but for a long lasting result spray paint with Plasticote aerosol paint.

Boiled linseed oil works for a whole summer season--cheap and very easy to apply.

John

Thanks for all the rapid replies folks. Forgive me asking a stupid question - how do you do the boiled linseed oil ?????

Buy it in a bottle from any diy store, think I paid about £3. Wash the bumper clean first. Wipe on with a soft cloth, leave a short while and then buff off with another soft cloth. It takes a while to dry fully so try and avoid brushing against it or it will still transfer to clothes.

NORGIL wrote:Buy it in a bottle from any diy store, think I paid about £3. Wash the bumper clean first. Wipe on with a soft cloth, leave a short while and then buff off with another soft cloth. It takes a while to dry fully so try and avoid brushing against it or it will still transfer to clothes.

But be careful with the used rags, prone to self-ignition.

I use linseed oil, works better than anything else I have tried, not only is  it easy to apply, just takes a few minutes and lasts months, can buy from Wilkos, I prefer a brand name not a stores own version. also B&Q sells it, also very economical. try it you will not be disappointed,

I wouldn`t recommend any paint, 

Best regards,
Margaret

After boiling do you wait to it cools down or use it hot.

chrisk wrote:After boiling do you wait to it cools down or use it hot.

No you do not boil it,  you buy it ready boiled, it will say on the bottle, .....Pure Boiled Linseed Oil.

daisy mae wrote:

chrisk wrote:After boiling do you wait to it cools down or use it hot.

No you do not boil it,  you buy it ready boiled, it will say on the bottle, .....Pure Boiled Linseed Oil.

Thanks Daisy Mae

Your very welcome.

I am going for it with the boiled linseed oil. Will let you know how I get on and will be sure to dispose of the cloths carefully. Thanks everyone 

[You must be registered and logged in to see this link.] This method will last about ten years without any further restoration have used it on a '98 Symbol. Basically it releases the colour pigment from the plastic and bingo. Treating with oils etc is only a temporary fix It would be a good idea to remove the bumper to be treated so you don't burn body paint. Keep the gun moving and not to close. As soon as the pigment leaches out move to the next area before any distortion takes place. It's very easy to do and will look like a new part.

biffobear wrote:[You must be registered and logged in to see this link.] This method will last about ten years without any further restoration have used it on a '98 Symbol. Basically it releases the colour pigment from the plastic and bingo. Treating with oils etc is only a temporary fix

Been there done that, It took a lot longer and the finish wasn`t nearly as good as the Linseed oil, which only takes a few minutes to do both bumpers, use lint free cloths otherwise the bits will stick to the oil. 

This is just my experience of the two methods, the OP will find his own best way , which ever way suits, if he tries different ways.

daisy mae wrote:

biffobear wrote:[You must be registered and logged in to see this link.] This method will last about ten years without any further restoration have used it on a '98 Symbol. Basically it releases the colour pigment from the plastic and bingo. Treating with oils etc is only a temporary fix

Been there done that, It took a lot longer and the finish wasn`t nearly as good as the Linseed oil, which only takes a few minutes to do both bumpers, use lint free cloths otherwise the bits will stick to the oil. 

This is just my experience of the two methods, the OP will find his own best way , which ever way suits, if he tries different ways.

Just offering a different approach. Sorry I for got to mention it does take longer than applying Linseed oil, but I found the finish I achieved  was as I said like a new part when I did it. It is not a method you can rush and you have to be patient.

I use Teak oil to good effect.

Must agree with comment about auto ignition!

I did a lot of yacht work and we always damped down or removed any wipers that had these types of oil on them well before close of play.

Did not want a burned out boatyard

crosgor wrote:I think the bumpers are made of a sort of fibrous reinforced plastic, the Autsleeper panels are either ABS or GRP. You can apply all sorts of stuff to revive the bumpers but for a long lasting result spray paint with Plasticote aerosol paint.

Or Raptor Truckbed sealer. comes in a kit with spray gun and I've seen it used at the VW camper jam. As the name suggests it is very tough and wont flake off after a year or so

chrisk wrote:After boiling do you wait to it cools down or use it hot.

Arsonist Alert!!!