Winter jobs

Hi All
     I am just about to start a couple of "Winter Jobs" the 1st is to fit a seperate switch for the electric water heater so it is not left on all day.I want to take the draw out at the bottom of the wardrobe is there a easy way or do I have to unscrew the runners, the 2nd the habitation battery has gone flat has anyone fitted a remote access for charging.
 regards
Alan

Hi
  I have a early Surrey the drawer is also at an angle I have tried lifting and pulling but to no avail update I have removed the drawer by taking out the 3 screws each side on the runner no problem
regards
Alan

Right now I can get to the fuse box It's a nightmare all premade connectors and heat shrink "DO NOT GO THERE" 
   Next find the cable that goes to the electric water heater,cables everywhere DOES ANYONE KNOW THE POSSIBLE COLOUR OF THE CABLE AND WHERE IT GOES INTO THE WATER HEATER
thanks 
Alan

Don't know your particular lay-out Alan, but I know from recent workings with flat-pack furniture, that the runners may be screwed to the sides first, and then the drawer slipped on to the runners, and secured to the runners from inside the drawer.    If so, you may find that there are screws inside the drawer securing it to the runners.    Undoing them would permit the drawer to be slid out leaving the runners in place.


And :   is it not possible to control the use of the water heater from your control panel ?? or are you talking about a frost heater


Good luck.



Sorry Alan  ..  crossed post, I see you've managed to extract the drawer

Hi 
   I only have a basic control panel,The fuse box and combined Water Heater switch are under the wardrobe floor so once the wardrobe is stacked with clothes it is impossible to get to so I want to fit a extra switch in line above the floor simple really if I can find the correct cable and entry point into the heater HELP!!
regards
Alan

Should be a 3 core cable, normal mains colours blue/brown/green yellow, with a white or yellow casing.

Easiest way is to fing the existing switch and see which cables go in/out. I would not interfere with the connection at the heater, but break into the cable and fit a junction box to extend the cable to your new switch.

Hi
     There is about 4 cables coming out of a heatshrink multi plug at the botttom of the Fusebox so I really need to find out where it goes into the water heater so I can be 100% sure I am on the correct cable
regards
Alan

The cable will go to the switch first then on to the water heater, look at the switch.

Hi
  The switch for my water heater is part of the fuse box and 4 cables come out of the fuse box on a multi plug and it is impossible to determine which cable is the one for the waterheater.,Do you know where on the water heater the power supply go in?
Regards
Alan

gemdeco wrote:Hi All
     I am just about to start a couple of "Winter Jobs" the 1st is to fit a seperate switch for the electric water heater so it is not left on all day.I want to take the draw out at the bottom of the wardrobe is there a easy way or do I have to unscrew the runners, the 2nd the habitation battery has gone flat has anyone fitted a remote access for charging.
 regards
Alan

You should already have an isolation switch, fused at 10A, located in your wardrobe and wired between the Sargent PSU and the Truma Ultrastore water heater.  If you want to switch it at a more convenient place, use the patress (mounting box) of the existing switch as a junction box and extend both cables to the new switch location.  NB, I always remove the fuse when the heater is empty to avoid the risk of accidentally switching it on and burning out the element.

If you have two habitation batteries they should be connected in parallel and will both charge together through the normal hook up point and internal charger.

Hi 
   I wish it was that easy I have a Hager fuse box and built into that I have 3 on/off switches  "FIRE" "OVEN" (Microwave) "WATERHEATER" the wires leave the fuse box in premade multi plugs that connect into the bottom of the fuse box I have 2 white mains cable that go to the bottom of the wardrobe.one I presume goes to the electric fire and the other to the control unit of the waterheater but they are hidden by the fire ,hot air pipes etc and I do not really want to have to take out the fire for access
Regards
Alan

At the time your van was made you could have had either a Sargent or and MES electrical installation, the handbook on the AS website describes the Sargent system. If you have the MES I would appreciate seeing an picture of the switch unit you have that shows it in the context of its location and accessibility.

How did you manage to get the drawer out? I've tried the usual lift and pull method on ours but because of the angle only managed to get one side out.

Hi 
    there are 3 screws each side that are exposed when you pull the drawer fully out Just undid those and the drawer came out dead easy,There were no screws at the far back so all could be seen
regards
Alan

gemdeco wrote:Hi 
    there are 3 screws each side that are exposed when you pull the drawer fully out Just undid those and the drawer came out dead easy,There were no screws at the far back so all could be seen
regards
Alan

Thanks! That saves me struggling.

When my van was new I too could not work out how to remove that drawer.  Mark told me to simply lift it, just like a conventional kitchen drawer, and to not be afraid to pull and wiggle.  He was right!  It does vcome out but it is pretty tight and it is just as bad to get it back again. But I have had it in and out half a dozen times since with no screw removal.

I have decided that I cannot work out which is electric supply cable for the water heater and which is the one for the habitation heater 2 options let Mark at AS sort it out  or cut an access door below the wardrobe floor  between the bathroom and wardrobe problem itis just above the toilet any thoughts
regards
Alan

inspiredron wrote:When my van was new I too could not work out how to remove that drawer.  Mark told me to simply lift it, just like a conventional kitchen drawer, and to not be afraid to pull and wiggle.  He was right!  It does come out but it is pretty tight and it is just as bad to get it back again. But I have had it in and out half a dozen times since with no screw removal.

When I had work done on the Truma heater recently, that drawer had to come out. It was a nightmare. Eventually the cause of the problem was found: the rear screw which should have secured the running channel to the side of the space in which the drawer fits had come undone, and the channel had dropped. It was evident that AS had made a few unsuccessful attempts to screw on the channel. Now cured and - I assume but haven't tried - the drawer should be more easily removable by now.