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Damaged sump.

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Damaged sump. Empty Damaged sump.

Post by AlanGT Tue Oct 18, 2016 3:11 pm

I need a replacement sump on my 2007 Boxer 290 LX MWB HDi. I'm told it is leaking because the casting is faulty and it should be relatively easy to replace it with another. Has anyone had experience of this and can anyone suggest where I might get a replacement sump. Thank, Alan.
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Post by boxerman Tue Oct 18, 2016 4:06 pm

Is it alloy? If its a porous casting, you can buy a special paint that old time motorcycle manufacturers used to paint the insides of crankcases with.
i.e. [You must be registered and logged in to see this link.]
It its a hole, why not use one of the two part fillers, JBweld or similar? rather than hunting for a new sump.

Frank
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Post by AlanGT Tue Oct 18, 2016 4:28 pm

It is alloy and it is a hole. Thank you for your help and advice. I'm now going to investigate two part fillers that I hadn't thought of using.

Alan
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Post by peugeotboxer Tue Oct 18, 2016 6:27 pm

Don't just fill the hole.
Cut a small ally plate to cover the hole and use the two part to seal that as well.
(if the hole is really small, maybe a piece cut from a drinks can?)

PB
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Post by boxerman Tue Oct 18, 2016 6:30 pm

Personally, I would take the sump off and repair it from the inside.

Frank
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Post by AlanGT Wed Oct 19, 2016 8:46 am

Thank you PB and thank you Frank. Your help is much appreciated.

Alan.
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Post by tallslimdave Wed Oct 19, 2016 11:55 am

Hi just a thought....if it's an unridged section drill and tap hole and fit short bolt with copper washer! Or self tapper etc

               Dave h
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Post by peugeotboxer Wed Oct 19, 2016 12:45 pm

Yes, it all depends on the size of the hole.
If it's a pin hole, then a self tapper would suffice.

Anything bigger, Frank is correct, take it off and repair/replace.

PB
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Post by johnnyxs Wed Oct 19, 2016 3:23 pm

if you want a permenant repair you might consider using Low temperature aluminium brazing.
I repaired my motorcycle engine casing .

You'll need a  plumbers propane lamp and a stick of low temp aluminium brazing stick and its a permenant fix .
As the sump is a large item you'll mprobably need to pre heat it in the oven at this time of year to bring the sump at to a reasonable temperature or the cold aluminium will act like a cold sink for the heat from a small propane bottle .

Excellent tutorials  on youtube

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Post by AlanGT Wed Oct 19, 2016 4:53 pm

Thank you everybody, so many excellent ideas to solve my sump problem. I have learnt so much! Thank you for the video johnnyxx.

Alan
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Post by Bulletguy Fri Oct 21, 2016 9:51 pm

I had a cracked sump though it was on a car and was steel. I picked a good 'un up from a local scrapper for a fiver and a Garage near where i worked charged me a tenner to fit it whilst i was at work. I could have welded my cracked one but it wasn't worth all the faffing about.

If you can get a good second hand one i'd go that route rather than spend money on patching.
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Post by Jaytee Sat Oct 22, 2016 11:28 am

Excellent bit of info on ally brazing Johnnyxs thanks muchly  allthumbz 
 Well worth knowing.

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Post by johnnyxs Sat Oct 22, 2016 12:01 pm

Jaytee wrote:Excellent bit of info on ally brazing Johnnyxs thanks muchly  allthumbz 
 Well worth knowing.
i found it by accident on youtube last year. It enabled me to save a Lambretta crankcase worth £150 from the scrap pile .

The only thing that caught me out was how a large heavy piece of aluminium, like a crankcase , can act as a heatsink and soak away the heat from a small propane blow torch nozzle . If the piece is pre heated in the oven until your spit sizzles then brazing is very easy and quick.

Something like this would be adequate for most small brazing repairs and for soldering fittings in general plumbing work
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