Manual Fridge Ignitor & Cables

HI, hopefully a simple one for you wizards out there!

I have just installed my new firdge (RM4200s) in place of the old RM212F, and have a couple of queries:

1. The RM212F was electronic ignition, and the new fridge is manual piezo. Do I need to do something with the sopare cables, or can I jjst tape them up?

2. Possibly linked to this, on running on 12V this morning, the red 'fridge' light on the Zig didn't come on, and nor did the illuminated red switch. I suspect I have blown a fuse somewhere, which is why neither work (or the fridge obviosly), but a thought did cross my mind that the Zig light was somewhow linked to the electronic ighnition cables, but this would seem unlikely.

Also, if I have blown a 12v fuse as suspected, does anybody know where this fuse might be?

Thanks all in advance.

CJM.

1. I don't know your layout but I would insulate the spare cables.

2. Are you trying to run on 12v with the engine running? There should be a relay to remove the 12v from the fridge if the alternator isn't giving a charge.

Dave, thanks.

1. How do I insulate cables? With insulation tape? If so, that's what I've already done.

2. Yes, with the engine running. The battery is fine, and no problem with the charge. I have since found out that the switch on the fridge isn't illuminated, but that still leaves the question of the light on the Zig panel, and where this draws power from?

Also, I was wrong with the loose wires being from the electronic ignition, they are actually two of the cables that were on the 3-way switch on the RM212, which almost cerainly explains why the fridge ain't working! Pictures below, and its the top two wires onto the switch (black with piggy backed red):

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Anbody any idea where I should attach these on a RM4200??

Also, still to find out where the various fuse boxes are!

Ta.

FIRSTLY PLEASE IGNORE ABOVE POST WHICH IS WRONG!!

Sorry for going on, but I've just run a few further checks to see if I can work out why the red light on the Zig isn't coming on, and why probably the fridge might not be working on 12v after my install!

- No fuses in the Zig have blown.
- There is 12v at the dc cable as it goes into the fridge, measured.

I suppose the question is why the red light doesn't come on, and I can't work it out!

The only cables 'left over' are the red/black 12v leads which powered the electric ignition, and another red cable which has a piggy back, and which connected to the old three way switch.

As ever, any help appreciated!

Cheers.

I'm sorry that I can't contribute much here, as I haven't worked on that type of fridge since I sold my last van over 3 years ago. I remember the connections on that switch well, because A/S don't leave much slack on them, and when I pulled my fridge out I found that all 3 had pulled off the switch... but sadly I can't recall any more detail than that.

However, the more general observation is that if you have DC power and testing shows that the appliance itself is working, the area to focus your attention on is whether the switch is working, and whether there is a circuit to the chassis from the negative side of the appliance. On older vehicles, the path to earth is often a cause of problems, due to corrosion...

Mojo thanks. 

I certainly haven't installed any negative circuit that I know of! Perhaps that is what the red piggy back cable is for? Or to connect to the zig. 

Think I need a sparky!

Cheers.

it would be very irresponsible, although not impossible, of someone to use red for the negative circuit. Black is normal in the UK and brown was normal for Germany - not to be confused with the brown AC live!!!

Like -mojo-, all my experience of fridges comes from a long time ago so I would be reluctant to offer further suggestions.

Could it be part of the switch circuit though? It's definitely not the main negative lead which of course is black, and connected as normal.