glass top for sink\basin unit

Unfortunately SWMBO has managed to break glass sink/work top into a thousand piece jigsaw. Where is best place to get a replacement please and is it best to replace it with glass or are there other, non breakable options?
Thank you.

Try Leisure Shop Direct for replacement. Example here....


http://www.leisureshopdirect.com/caravan/home/product_49518/glass_lid_for_ce-00_btk_659_sink.aspx

I'm just about to start replacing the glass lids on my hob and sink with perspex, which I plan to sand to a (hopefully) frosted finish.

The plan is then to put the (as yet unscratched) ones into storage, and I can then put things on top of mine without having to worry about scratching or breaking them. On mine (Smev) a replacement glass is more than two thirds the price of a brand new, complete unit, in the case of the sink, and not much less in the case of the hob!

Dear me! What a price! I had no idea.

We're new to these glass covers (good old stainless on the Clubman) so I'm curious to know what is the most common cause of breakage? Clearly, lowering the glass over a hot hob could do it; likewise dropping something heavy. Anything else, especially the bizarre or unforeseeable?

Trying to reduce the risk!

what happened was we bought a bunch of Tesco flowers to give to our daughter who we were on our way to visit and I rested the flower stems in the sink bowl in a bit of water and put the glass lid down over them to trap stop them from moving in transit.
Arrive at daughters.
SWMBO puts lead on dog who is well excited.
I open rear door (kitchen end) and exit.
Dog (Border Terror) lurches out of door onto step dragging SWMBO with her, who places left arm heavily on glass lid to steady herself, flowers still in sink.
Lid shatters.
£5 bunch of flowers now becomes rather more expensive.
Noone hurt and lesson learned. Not a common mishap i imagine!

Oh my goodness! Now that is an exceptional train of events which is definitely not foreseeable! At least (I hope) your Manager's arm wasn't injured?

Thanks for the full saga!

Cymro

 I'm curious to know what is the most common cause of breakage

a heavy object.......lets say a coffee jar in one of the lockers above the sink is an excellent and proven method (just dont ask me how I know)

Ah! Shall suggest to The Manager that we don't store potential missiles in those overhead lockers. Thanks for alerting me to that.
Cymro

On our handover , Frank at Cotswold Motorhomes warned us not to put anything likely to fall onto the glass lids in the cupboards. Surprised he didn't warn you likewise.

He might have, Paul, but there was a lot to take in!! And at my age.... !

Anyway, shall be careful.

-mojo- wrote:I'm just about to start replacing the glass lids on my hob and sink with perspex, which I plan to sand to a (hopefully) frosted finish.

The plan is then to put the (as yet unscratched) ones into storage, and I can then put things on top of mine without having to worry about scratching or breaking them. On mine (Smev) a replacement glass is more than two thirds the price of a brand new, complete unit, in the case of the sink, and not much less in the case of the hob!

Did you just get the Perspex cut to size in a local, er .... Perspex cutters?  I need to replace mine (not thinking that a small glass salt seller could be heavy enough to smash the glass one).  Does anyone know if there are disadvantages in using Perspex or (why do we need to see through it?) wood or another material?

Perspex will crack and break (not as easy as glass) use polycarbonate.

JDS wrote:Perspex will crack and break

Seems a bit of a sweeping statement! I've used PMMA (as it seems to be called if you don't want to use the trade name) for lots of things - many of them heat-formed into odd shapes - and it doesn't crack and break under any normal day-to-day use, provided it's thick enough. I used sheet that was slightly thicker than the original glass and it hasn't cracked or broken.

Cutting and drilling it is easy for a DIY-er. If you use a jigsaw, use a sharp blade and not too high a speed - if you over-rev it or use a blunt blade the plastic tends to melt. Leave the protective plastic on to cut, obviously, to prevent the base plate leaving deep scratches. Similarly drilling holes is easy, but it's also easy to splinter or shatter it if you're not careful. I always run the drill bit in reverse until the complete width has penetrated below the surface, then continue without too much pressure in the forward direction and that's always been fine.

I found that making an acceptable matt finish was the hardest - I didn't want to leave it in high gloss because it would scratch up immediately, so I used an angle grinder with wire wheel to take the gloss surface off (be warned, this combination will remove skin down to the bone in the blink of an eye, so use carefully!).

The see-through qualities of Perspex were not relevant to me, as I used a completely opaque type in black (which comes out grey when matt finished). I bought off Ebay and they cut the sheet that I bought into strips the right depth for me at no extra cost - I just had to cut to width and round the corners.

Other materials are I'm sure possible, but you have to bear in mind that you cannot go much above the thickness of the original glass, or the hinges will no longer work properly.