Peugeot 2010 Engine Oil & Fuel Filter changes

I have just completed an engine oil & filter change and a fuel filter change.
Both are simple quick jobs to do.
I have sent Roli a detailed description of the Fuel Filter change process for posting in the technical section.
The engine oil and filter change is probably the easiest vehicle I have done one on, since the filter and drain are so accessible.
It helps to raise the front off side wheel slightly - driving up on a 2" or 3" piece of wood is sufficient.

Following is a photo taken from ground level without any raising of the vehicle.



Both the Filter cannister and the sump drain plug are close to the front and reached without any need to go under the vehicle.
Note the flange at the top of the filter cannister is screwed fully up to the mounting body which has the Ford logo on it.

With a suitable container in place, undo the sump plug to drain the old engine oil, 6 litres.
Then unscrew the filter cannister which contains the paper filter.
Remove the old filter, and the 'O' ring and clean out the cannister.
Lightly oil the new rubber 'O' ring to roll it over the cannister threads, up into the top groove.
Refit cannister and sump plug and refill the oil.

I used 6 litres of Comma pro-tech 5w-30w Fully Synthetic oil, £34 and a Mahle original filter, £4.
The whole job is easily done within an hour.

Compare that with main dealer prices.

Thank you very much for that info backtrax as I will be doing my own servicing when my Broadway runs out of warranty.

John.

John,
You are welcome.
See also the article I did of a full brake stripdown, which Roli posted for me last year in the technical section.
Ken

Thanks for that - raising the O/S front wheel? Is that for ease of access or to help the old oil to drain? It would be obvious but I don't want to go down the garden to look now! Interesting confirmation that the filter mounting has the Ford logo and not a Peugeot logo.
That raises the question - does the Ford engine have a timing chain like the Fiat 2.3 or a timing belt? The latter would need replacement at 6 years. I think that it is a chain, which I would welcome.

Ron,
Raising the front o/s wheel is for both ease of access and drainage - although for the change I did last week I did not bother. Think I would for the next one, as I did for the first, to give extra clearance on my oil drain pan.
The Ford logo is because it is a Ford engine. Peugeot would maintain the engine was a joint development but it is full of 'Ford' parts!!
The following is a technical summary I was given:

2.2 LITRE HDI DIESEL ENGINE
This new 4-cylinder HDi common rail diesel engine has been specially designed for commercial vehicles. Its capacity is 2198 cm³, obtained by a bore of 86 mm and a stroke of 94.6 mm.
This engine is equipped with a cast-iron engine block, a 16-valve aluminium cylinder head and two overhead camshafts. The camshafts are chain driven and a fixed geometry type turbocharger is used. By using the latest-generation common rail direct injection system, with an increased injection pressure of 1600 bars, the system reduces both noise and emissions.
The system ensures that there is always high pressure fuel available for each injection phase during the combustion cycle. The operating principle involves the use of electromagnetic injectors, controlled individually, which enables a finer fuel spray to be injected into the combustion chamber. The gains in terms of complete combustion and energy efficiency provided by this process, results in reduced emissions, fuel savings and a higher engine torque output. A high-capacity exhaust gas recirculation system, controlled electronically (e-EGR), lowers the combustion temperature and helps to reduce emissions of nitrogen oxide and 'black smoke' by around a half. This 'intelligent' electronic system monitors the flow of air and corrects it automatically in the event of an EGR unbalance, or if a valve is jammed. It continually adapts to the engine's operating conditions and is water cooled.The 100 bhp version is combined with a 5-speed manual gearbox and has a maximum torque of 185 lb ft at 1500 rpm.

My favourite phrase: "The camshafts are chain driven..." !

Will save a lot of money over the lifetime of the engine / ownership.

Thanks for that brilliant summary!

Hi Backtrax,  Good discription and picture for oil change.
I always did my own and still do on my bikes.
However my local dealer does my vehicles for 40 pounds. so not worth getting my hands dirty.  

regards

Mike

InspiredRon
Just given main dealer my engine number and VIN.
They confirm ther is no cam belt it is chain driven.

They also confirm that the Engine Oil, Fuel & Air filter change with a check & clean of the brakes would be £366 compared to the £70 it cost me with a bit of time.

Backtrax wrote:

They also confirm that the Engine Oil, Fuel & Air filter change with a check & clean of the brakes would be £366 

WHAT.............................HOW MUCH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!   

PB

Backtrax wrote:InspiredRon
Just given main dealer my engine number and VIN.
They confirm ther is no cam belt it is chain driven.

They also confirm that the Engine Oil, Fuel & Air filter change with a check & clean of the brakes would be £366 compared to the £70 it cost me with a bit of time.

Thanks, again. I paid about £380 for the full 2 year service. I will certainly do my own oil change after this season.

Cymro wrote:My favourite phrase: "The camshafts are chain driven..." !

Will save a lot of money over the lifetime of the engine / ownership.

Cymro, it may interest you to know that the only failure of cam drive that I have had since 1962 was a chain driven device. It was on a Toyota Yaris, on the overrun travelling down hill at about 30 mph. The chain snapped and wrecked the engine, pistons hitting valves.

I do prefer chain drive (or better still gear drive like in the old MG PA and PB), it does seem a more secure system than a fabric belt, but it's not 100% infallible even with regular maintenance.

[quote="Spospe"]

Cymro wrote: it does seem a more secure system than a fabric belt, but it's not 100% infallible even with regular maintenance.

It's not "fabric" it's "Kevlar" and Kevlar is immensly strong, probably weight for weight stronger than steel.   

Frank

Quite right Frank, Radio Amateurs use it as guy lines for supporting big masts

Hi,  Its not always the belt that fails first. Tensioners and pulleys can fail and also the Water pump before the belt.

regards

Mike

mikethebike wrote:Hi,  Its not always the belt that fails first. Tensioners and pulleys can fail and also the Water pump before the belt.

regards

Mike

Yep, I once had a tensioner pulley fail (bearings seized ) pulley stopped-dead, & the belt was stripped of just about all its 'teeth',  needless to say, the engine stopped a bit sharpish, many valves destroyed,  all in the fast lane of the M1, 'coasting' back to the hard-shoulder was shall we say, 'interesting'.  

modelman wrote:Yep, I once had a tensioner pulley fail (bearings seized ) pulley stopped-dead, & the belt was stripped of just about all its 'teeth',  needless to say, the engine stopped a bit sharpish, many valves destroyed,  all in the fast lane of the M1, 'coasting' back to the hard-shoulder was shall we say, 'interesting'.  

When Vauxhall brought out the first belt driven OHC engines, a spokesman was asked how long the belt would last. His answer was that it would last as long as the engine. This was more or less true when you think about it   


Frank

Yes Frank . Its a well known fact on many vehicles that its not the belts fault.

VW and plastic pulleys come to mind.

regards

Mike

When I do an oil change I use an Extractor Pump ,  saves getting under the van

Hi Leaves oil and sludge in the bottom.
OK if you do very frequent oil changes.
regards

Mike