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Removing drivers seat on Nuevo/Boxer

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Removing drivers seat on Nuevo/Boxer Empty Removing drivers seat on Nuevo/Boxer

Post by brains Thu Oct 17, 2013 4:58 pm

The driver's seat on my 05 Nuevo is fixed with two 13mm bolts at front - no problem, but at the back there are two allen key bolts with (I think) a 16mm nut underneath. Not enough room to get a socket onto the nut, or even a ring spanner, Tried a long allen key and it will obviously break if I push any harder - it seems AS just don't want you to remove the seat - why didn't they just use 4x13mm bolts? 

Anyone got a tip? I need the seat out to replace the leisure battery. At present, drilling out the two rear bolts looks the only way forward...

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Post by jimthefish Thu Oct 17, 2013 9:02 pm

They recalled all 2005 boxers because the bolts on the front drivers seat were not made of the correct steel. Unfortunately when they put the replacements in they did it with the addition of drop of stud lock.
The only way to release mine was to use a hammer and a centre punch one the top face of the bolt to start it turning, once you have broke the stud lock seal they come out easily. From what I remember the nuts are fixed to the seat support base. (might be wrong)
One other word of warning, make sure the new battery is the same height as the old one, I purchase a larger leisure battery and the terminal were about 1/8 inch from the metal swivel seat frame. a bit too close for comfort. I put the old bolts back without the stud lock, that was 4 years ago and they haven't come loose yet. 
Good luck
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Post by jimthefish Fri Oct 18, 2013 8:46 am

Hi Brains forgot to add. I had someone apply pressure with the Alan key whilst I hit the head with a hardened centre punch, stud lock is difficult to break free.  Also on my thread about your fuse I mentioned the weigh of the seat, be careful its top heavy and the sharp edges on the swivel unit can do damage to you or your motorhomes paintwork. Best of luck mate.
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Post by brains Fri Oct 18, 2013 10:12 am

Thanks jim - I'll give it a go...

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Post by boxerman Fri Oct 18, 2013 10:19 am

jimthefish wrote:
The only way to release mine was to use a hammer and a centre punch one the top face of the bolt to start it turning, once you have broke the stud lock seal they come out easily.
Good luck
Would an impact driver not be a better way to loosen them?

Frank
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Post by brains Fri Oct 18, 2013 12:03 pm

It worked! Used a centre punch on the first one, and it loosened relatively easily. The 2nd one didn't want to budge, after much hammering, so I trained a blowtorch on it and then had another bash - bingo!

Many thanks Jim

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Post by boxerman Fri Oct 18, 2013 12:12 pm

brains wrote:so I trained a blowtorch on it and then had another bash - bingo!

Many thanks Jim
You're skating on thin ice there Jim! using a blowtorch next to a battery which gives off Hydrogen innocent 

Frank


Last edited by boxerman on Fri Oct 18, 2013 12:36 pm; edited 1 time in total (Reason for editing : zpelink)
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Post by Peter Brown Fri Oct 18, 2013 12:32 pm

Yes, I knew heat would loosen the thread lock but couldn't think of a way to apply it safely and effectively other than by using an old big copper soldering iron (heated in flame, not by electricity). I have one but I don't expect many have.

Peter

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Post by brains Fri Oct 18, 2013 12:42 pm

Well I didn't let the flame go anywhere near the battery or the seat fabric, and only used it for 10 seconds. Caution is required with these things, but common sense care is sufficient.

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Post by inspiredron Fri Oct 18, 2013 3:07 pm

Hair drier or electric paint stripper would have been safer. But I guess that clapped out battery wasn't giving out much hydrogen anyway! Well done!

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Post by boxerman Fri Oct 18, 2013 3:37 pm

I blew the top off a clapped out battery once, testing it with a starter motor. Frightened me out of 10 years growth!
Didn't do that again happyno 

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