Levelling ramps

Having seen someone drive over the top of his Fiammas, I have slightly modified ours in order that I can tell when I reach the point of no return.

Super idea that Pete

like it may give it a try

Nuevo and dencol- read this update........


I have now concluded the experiments to see what happens if one "goes over the top"!

The surface was our tarmac drive; I'm not sure what would happen on soft ground.

With my alluminium extensions fitted it was possible to make the ramps tilt off the ground at the back if I drove too far- this was surprisingly far and the vertical centre-line of the wheel was just 15mm before the top of the ramp (the bottom front edge of the ramp is another 20mm further out at the front). The tyre was using the alluminium as a lever. It was still not possible to get the chocks on to their second position.


I now removed the alluminium extensions and drove slowly up; this time there was no tendency for the ramp to lift and even when I placed the centre-line of the wheel right above the top of the ramp. It was possible to get the chocks to fit on the first three positions (mission accomplished!). I actually managed to get the centre-line of the wheel slightly beyond the top of the ramp but behind the bottom front edge i.e. in that 20mm zone, this looked very precarious and the van only balanced there due to the compliance of the tyre.


Having gone this far... I edged forward, the ramps did not lift but were spat backwards as the tyre went over the front edge.

As I say this might not be whet happens on softer ground, or a loose gravel "hardstanding".

Don't try this at home folks!

My alluminium extensions will now be re-cycled, when I can think of something else to try!

Cheers,
Pete.

Good to see the testing went Ok with nothing damaged!

I think my experience of "going over the top" (as described in another thread) started and ended rather differently because my ramps were on soft ground.

In my case the point at which the ramp was supported by the ground effectively moved further back along the ramp as the leading edge sank in, so it started to rotate forward before I could even get close to the edge, and then the leading lower corner dug in more deeply and stopped it from being "spat out the back".

I guess more development and testing would be needed, but my gut feeling is that the only fully stable solution would be a longer ramp! Needless to say, most of us don't have the space for that, though...

Pete,

Many thanks for the update.

I too have had a few "improvements" that fell into the "it seemed like a good idea at the time" category.

One that springs to mind is when I welded up a 22ft long boat in my garage and then discovered that it was two inches wider than the doors. :Whistle1:Luckily for all concerned (but mainly me) a quick modification to the door jambs gave just enough room to drag it out!

Best regards,

Ian

thanks for the update and the testing

Greetings from a newbie. Just moving from a caravan to an Amethyst.

Caravans have similar problems, the critical being the fridge door, and cooking on the wonk.

My DIY remedy, after 20 or so years, is a lump of wood (ex skip/tip/back of shed) about 9" wide and 2
to 2.5" thick. The length is not critical, but the longer the better.
Crazy diagram time.   ==/====

Say the length is 24".  Mark a point 12" from one end.  Draw a line across the 9" side (nice and
square).  Now the part where you remember your carpentry lessons on making "tennon joints". Full
length panel saw and a firm hold, vice or WorkMate or similar.  Cut a triangle from the marked line to
the opposite side corner.  The resulting wedge is turned upside down and glued + nailed to the flat
surface.  Result, a 24" long 4" or 5" high ramp.  Mark 1


Mark 2 has a flat safety area, so should you go a bit tooo quick there is time for your helper to
yell.


Chocks are a good "belt & braces" idea.  Similar process, in fact easier! (try for practice) making 4 only takes two saw cuts.



Please excuse cobwebs, but they do work, and don't cost too much.

Mike

Just thought I might mention the brilliant Truma app for iphone - if you have it and go to Tools, then levelling, then motorhome (and having already put in the wheelbase and track of your MH) you can set it on a flat surface and it will tell you how much each wheel has to be adjusted.  I have the 3 step Fiamma levelling ramps and knowing that the steps are 4, 7 and 10cm it is dead easy to do the levelling, assuming you have enough range.

I never have bothered with levelling ramps, haven`t had a problem so far, providing the dinner plate doesn`t slide off the table all is fine.

Four of the yellow plastic skid mats work wonders for making sure your levelling ramps don't sink in or cut in on softer ground.

We are on our third pair of yellow Fiamma ramps though we have only bought one set. Fiamma replace cracked ones FOC but,they do specify that they should not be used on " uneven or gravel surfaces " !! Putting the skid mats underneath means we can honestly say that they are not cracking because the surface is either uneven or gravel.

A warning to newcomers though: don' t stand too close, and certainly not behind, when your OH drives up the ramps. We have seen 2 very near misses when the block has shot out.

We watched a Belgian couple a few weeks back trying to level up a big van on gravel. After umpteen attempts to get up the block, which kept skidding back, the young lady lay down on the ground in front of the wheel and held the ramp in place. What can you do but pray ? Eventually they put a couple of bath towels on the ground under the ramps.

Q

daisy mae wrote:I never have bothered with levelling ramps, haven`t had a problem so far, providing the dinner plate doesn`t slide off the table all is fine.

My fridge has always worked, on gas and electric,

I think one of the main problems some people have when trying to get onto ramps is that they will insist on reversing on when it is far easier to drive on.....

Hopefully this will show how I extended out ramps to give a bit more "lift".  

https://servimg.com/view/18062338/16

The reason many people reverse onto ramps is so they can make a quick exit from the pitch in case of emergencies.
Bit like parking a car - reverse in so you can drive out quicker should the need arise


Thats not a bad idea Pete for extending the Fiamma Ramps as in their normal form can be just a tad on the low side.
Your mod gives the option of extra height if needed without carrying the extra bulk of the Millenco type ramps