Melted water pipe on Warwick Duo

Check your heater ducting pipes are connected to your heater properly.
Ours had fallen out (no screws present) and the heater had melted a cold water pipe that runs around the back.

Ours too has failed its the blue pipe just as it comes round the back. Repaired a couple of weeks ago but this weekend the red pipe has failed also. Both times it was like a pin prick hole. I have one hot air duct at the top left that just pushed hot air into the area surrounding the heater under the seat, is this not right.

andyiow - There should be a blanking plug in the top left outlet and it's unsafe to run the heater with 4Kw of hot air blasting into the heater compartment. The blanking plugs have a habit of popping out and you'll probably find it if you have a good look. It needs reinserting with some force to ensure that it stays in place.

Actually, Autosleeper do not install the Combi heaters in accordance with the Truma instructions and both top outlets should have heating ducts connected, as the top outlets give out far more heat than the bottom ones. On our van I installed an extra duct to this empty outlet and I posted a message on here how to go about it. You'll find it here - [You must be registered and logged in to see this link.]

It's also adviseable to remove the flaps from the outlets as they should never be closed.

nimbus wrote:andyiow - There should be a blanking plug in the top left outlet and it's unsafe to run the heater with 4Kw of hot air blasting into the heater compartment. The blanking plugs have a habit of popping out and you'll probably find it if you have a good look. It needs reinserting with some force to ensure that it stays in place.

Actually, Autosleeper do not install the Combi heaters in accordance with the Truma instructions and both top outlets should have heating ducts connected, as the top outlets give out far more heat than the bottom ones. On our van I installed an extra duct to this empty outlet and I posted a message on here how to go about it. You'll find it here - [You must be registered and logged in to see this link.]

It's also adviseable to remove the flaps from the outlets as they should never be closed.

 thanks for the infor nimbus. I cannot find any blanking piece. I have however followed the link you sent (thanks) and have now ordered the parts to copy your modification.  

There is normally a blanking plug in the top left outlet as described very well by nimbus.
You cannot run the heater if it is missing.

The Truma Combi 4 series can run with one outlet blanked off but the flaps must never be closed.
The Truma Combi 6 series must have all 4 outlets working to avoid local overheating.

Pete

Although the Warwick Duo specification is for a Combi 4e ours came with a 6e. It's worth looking on the label at the front of the Combi to see which one you've got!

And, andyiow, you might find you need to reposition the leg to the bed base to avoid it being in front of the new heater outlet. And, whilst you're at it, I would suggest that you install a Fiamma accumulator on the outlet to the water pump as it stops the hammering at low flow rates. It's a very worthwhile mod, particularly at 3am if, like me, you get up for a pee and use the tap, as the pump won't run and wake up your other half! For the sake of 20 quid or so I can't understand why Autosleepers don't fit one as standard.

nimbus wrote:Although the Warwick Duo specification is for a Combi 4e ours came with a 6e. It's worth looking on the label at the front of the Combi to see which one you've got!

And, andyiow, you might find you need to reposition the leg to the bed base to avoid it being in front of the new heater outlet. And, whilst you're at it, I would suggest that you install a Fiamma accumulator on the outlet to the water pump as it stops the hammering at low flow rates. It's a very worthwhile mod, particularly at 3am if, like me, you get up for a pee and use the tap, as the pump won't run and wake up your other half! For the sake of 20 quid or so I can't understand why Autosleepers don't fit one as standard.

 OK its definitely a 4e and thanks for your help and advice. Bit's arrived today so I will do it tomorrow. Duct positions look different than yours though did you move the mains socket as mine is on the front board.

No, I didn't move the mains socket but I seem to remember that I installed an additional 12v socket alongside it. The lower Truma outlet on the right side was probably a cockup by Autosleeper as the automatic water drain prevented the connection of the duct and they fitted another above it which did allow the connection.

The wiring on the left side of the heater was just a tangle of overlength cables that had been dumped in the space and, before fitting the extra duct, I took the opportunity to tidy it up with cable ties as best I could. Similarly, I altered the route of the tank vent as it got in the way of the new duct. Hopefully yours will be a bit tidier.

The Truma elbow is a very tight fit into the outlet and I was reluctant to use a smear of silicone lubricant to help it as I though it might also help it to pop out! So I forced it in as far as possible and secured it with a tiny stainless self tapper.

Truma advise that you put a dip midway in the duct if it's less that 500mm in length, which ours is, but it's virtually impossible to do.

Good luck with your installation.

Hi nimbus

I wondered where that 12 volt socket came from.
The other interesting thing is that our Warwick Duo  ( April 2011 ) has two 10 cm air intakes - one where your spare outlet has been fitted and another higher up on the left of it - I will post a picture when I can figure it out...
Also, do you think it would be possible to secure the warm air ducting in the heater outlets with self tapping screws?

Pete

It's a CBE 12v socket which are readily available form a caravan shop or here
[You must be registered and logged in to see this link.]
You'll also need a CBE support frame in the same grey colour.

Be warned though, these sockets are a poor design (unless the've recently been modified) and the long -ve side contact on some 12v plugs can bridge between +ve and -ve contacts within the socket causing a dead short. A couple of years ago I had a 12v splitter set on fire before it blew the fuse and it completely melted the plastic body of the splitter. The socket can be modified to make it safe by taking it apart (very easy) and wrapping part of the -ve contact within the socket with a sliver of insulation tape. If you insert a 12v plug into the dismantled socket it'll all make sense.

I picked up the supply from the sockets at the rear of the worktop.

Yes, you could secure the ducting with self tappers although you can get Truma spring clips which are probably better.

I don't think the air inlets are too important as there's a largish hole behind the fridge where the cables and pipes run from the heater compartment. This will allow a limited supply of air to the Truma in addition to to what comes through the normal air intakes. In fact I would imagine that a lot of the excess heat from andyiow's unpopulated outlet would have gone through this hole and escaped via the fridge vents, possibly preventing the melting of the fresh water inlet and vent pipes which are in the direct firing line of this outlet.

Thanks again...

Pete