Warwick XL Truma Combi E Fuse

[You must be registered and logged in to see this link.]
 Hello All,

Just arrived in Spain and at our first pitch with an electric hook up. The Truma  control panel has thrown up an error code - W45H and we’ve no heating or hot water using mains power. Thankfully the gas option still works.

It seems that a fuse has probably blown in the Truma unit, however access seems virtually impossible from the bed locker. 

I had a Habcheck a week ago and the engineer said he was surprised that AS hadn’t made an access panel under the drawers that sit immediately above the heater.

Taking a closer look it seems that AS may have created access by splitting the front facia panel that surrounds the cabinet. Is this wishful thinking or can this panel be removed to service the boiler?

I’m reluctant the pull the furniture apart on a hunch.

Many thanks for any feedback or suggestions

Nothing to do with your problem but could you alter your profile to show you have a Warwick XL . My first thoughts were a Sussex Duo doesn't have a digital control panel.
Most errors on Truma are due to not closing down the unit before unplugging Hook up. If you may have done this, then close down by holding close button down for at least 10 seconds before switching  back on.

Fair point - thanks. Profile now updated. 

I’m pretty certain the turn off procedure was ok but tried that again. The error messages is still there.

So my question still stands - how do you change a Truma fuse on a Warwick XL?

When I had that problem it was the plug where one wire was not attached properly it was only found on a visit too autosleepers.  I believe there is feed to this in the wardrobe so could be worth a look.  The plug is very small and just pushes in.  You can clear the fault on the panel but it may come back

Your photo looks similar to the arrangement in my Nuevo. Yes, the panel below the drawer can be removed but on my Nuevo it was a tight fit and a real pig to replace. I have taken mine out twice and the second time I chamfered the fear edges to make it easier to replace. On your photo you can see that one of the fixings is mounted in the very narrow part of the front to the left of the drawer. The fixing severely weakens that slender leg - and I have that in both sides. One side snapped but I was a level glue some ply behind to repair it and I reinforced the other side at the same point. Removing the panel gives better access to the Truma, especially to the fuse and pcb. Good luck if you try it - I'd be reluctant without having a plane (or Surform), g- clamps, glue and a few other tools not normally carried on tour. But because your panel is not at an angle it could be easier than on the Nuevo. If it is tight rest assured its not glued in place. At least you don't have the two hot air outlets of the Nuevo.

Hi, this might not help but describes how to remove bottom of cupboard.....remove lower draw first, open, up and out.
Good luck .
hi, I thought I would update this W255H fault.
Has taken a while but all seems ok now with help from various avenues. We have tested the system with all heating and water settings, 240V on/in/out, gas, shut down and back on, vent etc etc.
We are on an extended tour of Wales at the moment and Mr Trump, sorry Mr Truma is behaving its self.
Too refresh our situation again, over 14 months of use with no problems with it all apart from the odd W warning code flashing up etc until one very hot evening 30degs plus and " nothing", W255H warning and clock & spanner screen....." nothing".
After all my investigations I hope in a small way it might help other members in a similar situation.
I checked everything, 12V showing everywhere, combi, panel, fuses etc. still no go. Data cable from panel too boiler seemed OK with all six internal small cables good ( ????? I thought)
received new 6m cable from truma just in case and spare panel just in case. 
The boiler would not reset from INIT preset etc. with original A/S wired in data cable.? Took panel out again and loosely strung new data cable from panel too exposed combi PCB ( luckily our XL combi is facing inboard to get too most things) 
Local Truma mobile engineer over the phone had said too fully reset combi boiler, pull off positive and earth cables 12V for ten minutes too drain inbuilt stored voltage ( correct 1V showed for over ten minutes so hooked up test bulb to terminals too fully drain stored volts) Turn on Sargent and wait. Success, panel had come too life and full menu was on show. Turned gas water heater on and all fired up. Well just to try again I did everything again but using inbuilt A/S data cable , W255H again. It was another hot day by the way, and using meter tested all six data cable wires. Two were showing " no circuit ". All I can think is somewhere in the routing through the PVC vans bodywork there is a tight corner or bodywork chaffing etc, high lighted by very hot weather and expansion, only my guess.
Have installed new cable by dropping the skylight interior covers ( easily pulled off from six rubber knuckle fixings) loosening roof lining and feeding loose data cable via wardrobe roof too sliding door panel void between roof liner and roof insulation. Down through inside of wardrobe, draw frames and too combi heater cabinet.
This bottom of wardrobe / draw cabinet front comes off easily too expose combi. Five plastic caps , then screws ( one on the right of the unit above off side seat base ( IKEA type furniture fixing, just turn 90 degs etc) One lower right screw covered with the stick on round foil DOT. 

Too recap, W255H  was our dodgey  data cable.

Also as some have said many times , before and after taking out or reconnecting EHU cable 240V , push in truma control knob until the off word appears , wait till off word goes away ( you will hear combi click off within 24 secs of this happening) Then you are safe too plug in EHU or take out.
Hope this all makes sense and might help others.
PS spare truma control panel might be for sale if someone needs one.
Ian

just to add.
use a small knife to prize off round caps, some screws are normal heads, some are 90deg turn fixings. On the right as you look at the panel there are stick on dots, remove them, undue those screws.
I think I remember that you gently pull right hand side and then up and out...very easy after you have done it once.
Remove lowest draw first, pull open, lift up and out, just enough room before hitting fridge.
Good luck with the electric side of things.

Important...!!! disconnect the EHU supply BEFORE you start messing about in there.
we always now, turn off Sargent panel, push truma control panel knob till panel "says" off, turn off Sargent unit (black left button) off side bunk.....Before connecting EHU cable and also Before removing EHU cable.
Seconds to do and have not had any trouble with Truma since doing this procedure.
Good luck again.

Thank you everyone for your valuable feedback. 

I’ll attempt to source the correct fuse before tackling the furniture. 

I’m hopeful by that the fuse board is behind that panel - fingers crossed

Hi that code came on on my van many times, it’s was because someone ( unnamed) disconnected the EHU before closing down the heating correctly.
Johndean

Have you looked to see if there is an illuminated switch in your wardrobe that could have been switched off.  You may be lucky if the truma unit is sideways on

Thanks again - happy to say the problem is now fixed. By luck there was a Truma dealer just north of Cadiz (Sun Campers) - very helpful albeit we communicated via Google translate. They sold me two genuine Truma fuses for €1 each after diligently checking the boiler serial number and checking the online parts manual. 
Big thank you to Derby Motorhomes (who sold the van) for pulling apart a Warwick XL in their showroom to verify to methodology to access the fuses.
That being said, the balanced flu pipe was in just the wrong place and it was an arm scraping task to get access. I couldn’t get the removable panel reinstalled until we’d emptied everything in the wardrobe and removed all the drawers, even then it required a lot of grunt to push it back into place.
Very satisfying to find it worked when we hooked up at our campsite this afternoon.
Things are looking up after surviving the Saharan dust storm in Cordoba that dumped lots of dust in just a few hours. The air quality was rated as Hazardous which is why we moved swiftly west
[You must be registered and logged in to see this link.]

Glad you sorted this.
Do you mean the balanced flu pipe was across the front of the truma boiler restricting access to the front lift off plastic cover to get to the pcb and fuses?
Also, had the fuse blown? 
Good information for others if they get the same trouble and all fixed 
for just 90p !! result

Hello - Yes the fuse had blown on the main 230V board which necessitates the removal of the larger lower circuit board cover (2 Torx screws at the lop).  Ideally it really needs hinging forwards to unhook the lower location lugs. The small top cover has to come off first to avoid tugging at the cables that exit between the two removable panels. Take photos to confirm how everything should look before removing things.

The balanced flue pipe ran across the cover and is pretty rigid, which made the job much harder. I loosened the hose clip on the black corrugated outer hose (air intake I was told) to create a little wriggle room which helped.  There’s an smaller silver inner hose that I left well alone as that carries the exhaust and would necessitate a ‘gas sniffer’ test to verify it had been resealed correctly. The fuse itself is easy to swop by hand once the cover is off.

By comparison, smaller 12V board cover at the top just slips upwards and has no fasteners apart from plastic locator pegs and there’s just enough headroom to rest it on the top of the boiler. The reset button is on the left of the top panel and is awkward to see but is doable if needed (no need to remove any covers)

All in all it’s a real pain to service and this could have been made easier with some more thought on Auto Sleepers part. What about a removable shelf above?

I should point out that I’m just recounting my experiences when touring. I’m no expert and particularly so when it comes to boilers. My ‘knowledge’ comes from this forum, third parties and the internet. 

If I’d been in the UK I’d have taken this problem to the AS service centre (if they ever answered their phone - 6 calls over 2 days went to a ‘call back’ message  - similar experience when I tried to book a habitation check before this trip. I think there’s some series management issues at AS Service Centre these days)

Hope this helps

Thanks for the update , useful information.
Have a good trip