High top guttering

Good afternoon and Happy New Year to all AS 'Conversionists'.
It's been quite a long time since I last asked for advice on this forum so I am assuming I have been lucky.

I own a 2000 Symbol, which I have had since 2002. I have 2 questions......
A. Is it reasonably easy to remove the drain guttering on the sides and back of the high top (Ireally need to give the whole lot a good clean) and can I still get the plastic slotted screw fixings that hold the guttering in place, and......
B. A crack has appeared in the interior panelling above and to the right of the sink drainer, near to the 3-point mains socket. I am uneasy about using this socket.  Has anyone out there experienced a likewise problem and if so, does anyone have a solution?

I thank you in anticipation,

Best wishes,

Shantymanles, Brixham, Devon.

If you have the type of guttering that is attached with black nylon screws into stainless steel stand-offs then, in relative terms, you're lucky (because previous types of guttering have been bonded in place).

However... you need to be very very careful because the vacuum-formed gutter (which is actually just a covering trim - it carries no rain water away) gets brittle with time/sunlight, and you cannot get replacements - so do not damage them!

On my van (not a Symbol, but similar in design, I believe) the screw fixings were just a standard metric size cheese-head nylon bolt. You may still be able to get them from A/S but, if not, they are widely available.

Assuming you do have the stainless stand-offs, you can expect a few of them to unbond themselves from the roof during the process, if my van was anything to go by.

Thanks Roopert for your quick response. Much appreciated. What adhesive would you recommend to re-bond the stand-offs if they should come adrift?

Shantymanles.

I cleaned off the factory double-sided tape residue, and used a 90-second epoxy glue. Araldite make one called Fusion, though I used something else as I happened to have it on the shelf. Be warned - it's a messy job, and I resorted to masking tape on the back so that once slapped in place the tape stopped it leaking out too much until it had set. I also masked the side of the van below it as it's not easy stuff to remove if you get it where you don't want it!

Thanks again for that. Next dry couple of days I'll give it a go.

Another option, which I've not used but a chap I know who runs a car body repair shop recommends, is "double sided mirror tape" which is like 3M VHB on steroids. It's ridiculously sticky - far better than the stuff that A/S used from the factory.

Ha ha Roopert. Sounds like a better option, possibly without the need for masking tape and 'Marigolds'. 

Merci,

Shantymanles.

Hi,
I have a 99 Harmony and wouldn't take the gutters off at all. I flush mine out with a hosepipe to remove debris and then remove any staining with a scratch free bathroom scouring pad. Finish of with some motorhome specific polish. If you do take them off then when re-screwing apply a liberal dose of Captain Tolley's Creeping Crack Cure( yes there is such a thing) to the thread to prevent future water ingress.
I used it on the screws on the leading edge of the gutters when I had some water ingress from a storm a few years ago and have had no sign of ingress since.
Also make sure the leading edge drain slots are clear as well.
Terry

newterry wrote:Hi,
If you do take them off then when re-screwing apply a liberal dose of Captain Tolley's Creeping Crack Cure( yes there is such a thing) to the thread to prevent future water ingress.

Hi Terry - we are probably talking about different designs here. The type which have stainless steel standoffs present no risk of water ingress - the screw holes are "blind" and there is no path through to the interior of the van (they are literally stuck onto the surface of the hightop). I would definitely not use Craptain Crolley's in that situation, because when it sets you will probably never get the nylon screw out again - either the head or the stem below the head is likely to shear off instead.

Ok, I was thinking of the black plastic guttering I've got.
Best of luck anyway !
Terry

Thank you both for your input.
Roopert, I managed to get the small M6 nylon bolts from the internet and the double sided  mirror tape has just this minute arrived so I am set to go. All I need now is the availability of my son to assist. As you suggested, the trim could be brittle and owing to it's length it would be wise to employ a second person to lift off/put back. You were right. Many of the stand-offs are already off!

Should the worst happen and they break don't despair, it should be possible for a good glass fibre worker to take a mould from the pieces and produce new glass fibre ones.
If you are a bit handy yourself it wouldn't be beyond a competent person to do themselves.
I did this when restoring an old 1950's caravan and made new wheel arch covers to replace the broken ones, a bit of work but they looked very original when finished.

Thank you Enn. Much appreciated.

You're welcome, although I don't know if I would risk removing them just to clean behind, only if you need to fix an issue such as leaking or if they are coming adrift.

Is there normal guttering behind that plastic to attach some Thule 420's ? Have 2000 Harmony and really want to put racks on. Was trying to peer behind the plastic band yesterday.

Hi,
There's no other guttering behind the black edging.
Terry