Replacing vehicle battery

Having a few issues this morning so need to replace the starter battery on our 2015 built boxer, seem to having trouble finding one at the correct ah rating of 95ah and with the terminals the correct way around. Any pointers to a supplier or a product part number would be appreciated.  Prices seem crazy but that’s another issue.

[You must be registered and logged in to see this link.]


I just checked for mine, put in reg number and a large choice appeared, most 100ah , some 90. Shows terminal layout and dimensions. Part number 019.

[You must be registered and logged in to see this link.]

Enter reg no and it comes up with the correct battery.  If that doesn't cross check then there is a battery wizard that will get you the right one.  Service is excellent with usually next day delivery.

Snap Paul

I've recently used the RAC battery replacement service for our vehicle battery - as I have RAC cover the fitting is free. I'm guessing they are an expensive option but they deliver, fit and fully check your old battery. Also used them for the car some time back and they are efficient and convenient.

Thanks chaps, the search facility didn’t work but I’ve ordered an 019  fingers crossed the battery is the problem.

I’m back again, just wanted to check if when I change the battery (which should be in a couple of days) can I expect any problems, with warning lights etc after disconnecting and reconnecting the engine battery or will it be straight forward?

Always best, even if not necessary, to connect a small (motorcycle or other battery) via croc clips to the cable ends currently on the battery before removal. Replace with new starter battery and re-connect cables to the new one. Small battery can then be removed. If it is necessary then good, won't have lost codes, if not, nothing lost just to be on the safe side?

glyne lock wrote:Toffee
as Ian has said you can connect a battery but to the jump start points under the bonnet is best

I wanted to check acid levels in my battery and needed to remove the terminals to do that so I connected a 12v intruder alarm battery to the jump point and  nearby earth. Kept all settings Inc radio code and trip info.

Ron, Glyne

Forgot re jump start underbonnet connectors, however the same end result, you'r is possibly easier and safer!

IanH wrote:Ron, Glyne

Forgot re jump start underbonnet connectors, however the same end result, you'r is possibly easier and safer!

How do you remove the cover on the underbonnet connector, after 4.5 years still no joy?

Seems stuck solid.
-----------
Richard

It hinges up and to the right

inspiredron wrote:It hinges up and to the right

Thanks, I will give it a go, might need it one day, just that i am heavy handed and usually break things.
----------
Richard

rgermain wrote:

inspiredron wrote:It hinges up and to the right

Thanks, I will give it a go, might need it one day, just that i am heavy handed and usually break things.
----------
Richard

As I'm the one who forgot about this, I feel duty bound to assist!!!

[You must be registered and logged in to see this link.]

BTW, the round thing to the right in pics 1&2 is my rodent scarer, don't worry that its "missing" in your van!!

Suggest you read this
[You must be registered and logged in to see this link.]

The battery arrives tomorrow so will swap it after work and I have a spare battery to attach to the jump start points whilst I do it.
The current battery was so flat on Sunday that nothing worked I couldn’t even unlock it, the alarm monitoring company said the battery was at about 7volts. It went flat in 6 days after being on hook up and being driven 130 miles the Sargent system was fully shut down whilst it went flat, so I’m a bit baffled. 
I’m changing the battery to rule it out.
 The possibly faulty battery is currently now charged up to 12.7 volts and confusingly all the dashboard settings and clock have retained their information on starting the vehicle engine

Our van is kept in storage, a couple of times before I upgraded the solar panel the vehicle battery went flat in the winter months requiring the battery to be brought home to charge. I had no issues with the radio or anything else when replacing the battery several days later. Whether or not I was lucky I don’t know.

Mike

I found this thread following an issue that I've been having recently and followed the suggested links to Tayna and the 019 model. Their prices do seem to be most competitive.  I bought a Bosch replacement battery for my previous van about 15 years ago, so things will have changed. Has anyone bought a Bosch S5013 and got any views on it? Also does it matter that it is described as a 'car' battery.

When I got the RAC to fit a new vehicle battery to my 2011 Peugeot I picked a Bosch S5 Battery Type 019 which is rated at 100ah. This has been fine since replacing it last summer.

For info - the RAC Shop web site has a decent system to find the correct battery by entering your vehicle registration number.