Labcraft light not working

Hi One of the Labcraft lights not working. Managed to remove cover, without braking tabs, unscrewd from wall, but none the wiser why not working.

Two fluorescent strips, black and red wires going into a PCB but no obvious fault.

Any likely suggestions??

Sorry for the rather too obvious question, but do you know that there is definitely 12V power going to it?

Obvious, other lights do work, but not checked if power going to this unit. Not sure how I would do this to be honest.

I ask, because I know from owning a Flair of a similar age that A/S often use standard screw-down mains connector blocks to connect the supply wires together above the roof - and these can come undone. I hope not in your case, because it's an absolute b'stard to get to them in some cases...

Generally you can hook up something else 12V powered temporarily just to prove whether you have power at the supply wires or not.

JandL wrote:Hi One of the Labcraft lights not working. Managed to remove cover, without braking tabs, unscrewd from wall, but none the wiser why not working.

Two fluorescent strips, black and red wires going into a PCB but no obvious fault.

Any likely suggestions??

Are you sure also that it is not 240v?

On my Harmony, one of the lights is mains and only works on hookup.
The rest are 12v

PB

Certainly 12v. To test if power reaching the unit I will need to cut the wiring and attach something else that needs 12 volt.

 Could take a punt and buy a new unit - must be some cheap available on the internet.

you can  use a multimeter to check the voltage, set it to dc volts a touch leads of m/meter to solder points on pcb where the red and black wires connect
mike
vwt4

Guess will have to give this a go - struggled yesterday to remove the pcb from the plastic holder as wires go into the pcb and I gues are attached on the reverse.

Hope not somehow disconnected behind panelling, as suggested that would be very difficult to track down

If it's a Labcraft Trilite. the PCB is held into the casing by the switch - it should just be a matter of desoldering the connections to the switch on the PCB and it will come out.

You should not need to cut the wires. A Trilite is supplied with around 8 inches of cable, at which point A/S will probably have crimped on Lucar-type connectors. It should be possible to ease the connectors through the cable access hole and they should then unplug, though occasionally you have to enlarge the hole a bit to get them through (not an issue as the lamp should cover the hole).

With the lamp unplugged, you can either connect it across a 12V supply to test it independently, or plug something else that runs off 12V from the van's supply cables.