Hot water issue again

Well back from another weekend away and another issue, now the hot water only heats up on gas, tried various setting, elec 1 and 2 mix 1 and 2 no joy, flicked to gas and boom hot water, got a Truma system and nothing but issues, however just happened to bump into a feature writer from Practical motorhome who was staying on the same site as us, she had same issue and replaced her system with a whale one, anyone else got any ideas?

Cheers
Sean

Does the heating work on 240 volt Sean?

If not you may well have a blown fuse - and if it's the same one that has blown on ours TWICE it's all but inaccessible. Probably not a job you could do yourself as you need a mirror, arms like a gorilla, and the experience to know which one is likely to have blown and where to find it - right down the back of the boiler.

Exaggerating, I an not!!! 

Hi,

No not really, the hot water icon on the panel was flashing for day and age, we were on ehu on site as well, not until flicked to gas then worked, i got.it.connected at home now so will give it a go over the next few days

Hi geoff,

No error signs at all, just flashing all the time until flicked over onto gas then all ok.

Sean

gef wrote:Hi Sean
Did you get a triangle appear at the bottom and central on the Truma panel?
Geof

It's not necessarily the triangle he needs to look for Jef.

Sean - If you have this control panel, look for the little 240 volt plug icon at the right, just under the °C icon. If that is missing (assuming you are plugged into the mains of course) you have a blown fuse, as I mentioned before.

Get out the ear plugs for Mrs Sean!!!!   

You just might be lucky if the fuse in the switched box in the wardrobe has blown - but I bet it hasn't!!

Hi,

I can confirm.i have the above panel and i have all of the correct symbols as well.

Cheers

Sean

Hmmmm. It doesn't seem likely that it's the fuse then.

Next question please! 

Just wondering if it could be an element issue on the electric side of things?? Dont know as no expert, waiting to hear from Truma

Does anyone know what settings the hot water should be on for site etc ie elec 1 or 2 mix 1 or 2?

Have a good day

Sean

Hi

The settings depend on what you want and how you want to run it.
1= approx 1Kw electric only
2= approx 2Kw electric only
MIX= gas and electric operation together (I only use this in very cold conditions and when hooked up, to boost the heating). Not applicable when not connected to mains power of course and it may generate an error when the controller checks for a mains supply.

There is a boost option for the water heater that will get it up to temperature from cold quicker - useful when just pitching up or following serial shower use. I then switch to ECO just to maintain a full charge of hot water.

In my opinion, this Truma system is more complicated when compared with the older system with two knobs, however, once you get your head around it, it does make sense and does allow for connection of air conditioning and remote control (if you want that).

What AS need to get to grips with is accessibility to the boiler electronics where the dreaded blowing fuse sits. Whose brainwave was it to put it facing away, against the outer wall (on my Stanton anyway) behind a fixed panel?

Good luck with yours.

Dennis

Dare-devil-dennis wrote:What AS need to get to grips with is accessibility to the boiler electronics where the dreaded blowing fuse sits. Whose brainwave was it to put it facing away, against the outer wall (on my Stanton anyway) behind a fixed panel?

I think the answer to that is very simple Dennis - and comes as no surprise. 

It's easier. 

If they fitted it with the fuse panels facing the (removable) front panel the exhaust exit pipe would also be facing inwards. It would be a little bit more trouble to take the hose round or over the boiler to the external flue, while continuously maintaining the upward angle - which (in theory at least) allows convection to help the hot gases escape.

Yes, I see that, but I think they should put in an external door to access the boiler panel. It would mean a small adjustment to the placement of three items on the outer wall (including the flue).
It would not need to be an expensive lockable hinged type. One simple cover fixed with screws to a water tight frame that you would use a tool to remove. This would meet the requirements of the low voltage directive along with a paragraph in the user manual (requires a deliberate act to access potential hazard). I think retro-fitting is not an option - it would need doing during production. This cover could also incorporate a sliding vent to reduce the extreme heat build up under the wardrobe and around the boiler electronics.

Sorry to OP, going off topic a bit.

Not too far off topic Dennis. Chances are Sean's problem would have been the fuse, so of considerable interest to others.

I'm just going to start a new thread to address your very pertinent comment about the "extreme heat build up under the wardrobe and around the boiler electronics". 

https://www.autosleeper-ownersforum.com/t25837-blown-fuses-heat-build-up-from-truma-boiler#211956

We have also had quite a lot of hassle with this heater.
(1)  The dreaded fuse
(2)  A element blown (symptoms only heated on 1800W not 900W and then at half power)
(3) When heating on water only it smells even on 900W.  When on this setting the combustion fan ruins slowly.  This is supposed to stop the problem but does not.

As the panel to get at the fuse is fitted with Torx screws I do not see a security problem if there was an access hatch.
On our last van we had the earlier combi heater.  It still smelt but in eight years did not blow any fuses or elements.

It appears to me that AS are getting some unreasonable flack here that should be directed at Truma. Their designer placed the fuse panel in a position that would inevitably be close to the outer wall of the van/caravan in order to enable the exhaust fitting.  I have a VW Topaz and an Avondale caravan.  Both offer reasonably clear access from the top, but in both installations access to the fuse would be difficult.    Keith

I have just looked at the installation instructions.  The diagram shows the heater rotated through 90 deg. about a vertical axis.  The fuse panel would be on the side and the air intake at the front.  The flue/ air inlet looks reasonable.  It might however not fit the cupboard shape.  The space round the heater suggested is much the same auto sleepers provide.
I suspect that unless you use up rather more storage space there is not a fully satisfactory solution.
We had a Swift with plenty of room round the heater but it used up most of an under bed locker.

Hi geoff,

The heating was after the first fill, i will try your way & i am still waiting to hear from Truma.

Cheers

Sean

Hi Geof & all,

An update for you, after talking to Truma Tech support on the phone, it seems i have been doing it all wrong & what the sales team forget to tell you, these hot water systems don't work very well relying on mains electricity as on mains it only seems to work on blown hot air from the heating system & they work alot better when pitched up here in england to select MIX 2 therefore using gas & elec, the hot water will use gas & when reach temp gas cuts off & hot water ticks over on elec, when abroad select mix 1 due to lower amps, I have tried this theory out & bingo hot water so much quicker, will test run this fully as away next weekend.

Cheers

Sean

You'll be able to have a shower now Sean . . . that will be a relief for your neighbours!! 

Good result, and thanks for the informative feedback. I think it might be worth putting in the Factsheets if you don't mind. I'm sure others would not be fully aware.