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Fiamma 200 DJ bike rack

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Post by Wroxham29 Wed Mar 07, 2018 5:09 pm

Hi I’m about to fix the rack to my 2001 Symbol. Has anyone used 6.4 pop rivets rather than 6.5 bolts thus not have to remove the upper and lower internal door linings?

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Post by AndyRoyd Wed Mar 07, 2018 5:32 pm

Wroxham29 wrote:Hi I’m about to fix the rack to my 2001 Symbol. Has anyone used 6.4 pop rivets rather than 6.5 bolts thus not have to remove the upper and lower internal door linings?

Pop rivets will tend to loosen of with stress and movement so the rack could eventually shear off, I would stick with the bolts.

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Post by kaspian Wed Mar 07, 2018 5:40 pm

Bolts 100% as that way you can add some large penny washers to spread the load inside. Personally would not trust a fully loaded bike rack hanging from pop rivets!
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Post by Guest Wed Mar 07, 2018 6:24 pm

Tony

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Have a look at this video, the installation of RIVNUTS I'm assuming you're planning to fasten to steel not aluminium or GRP.

These are commonly used in aviation, and are a better option than pop rivets, especially as the fasteners used to hold your rack can be removed, just with a spanner, Pop rivets need to be drilled out

There are many available, I'd choose stainless steel. You will need an installation tool, see video.

I would, if you think this a good option, just buy some and install them into a steel panel (scrap door from a scrapyard for example) then see what you think before drilling your expensive Mh. Max risk £10 or so.

Alternatively, do as the others say, remove the trim panels and use bolts and penny washers to spread the load
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Post by Wroxham29 Wed Mar 07, 2018 7:53 pm

H
Thanks for all your rapid replies. Thought it would be a no no for pop rivets but worth a try. Will look into Rivnuts but if I end up going down the bolt and washer route,any tips on removing the panels?

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Post by Windychippy Wed Mar 07, 2018 9:17 pm

Hi
Once fitted.


Word of warning, I found that once the rack is fitted I could no longer open the door fully by using the release button Fiamma 200 DJ bike rack 688996880 .  I did find a generic offside light cluster for just under £40 though on eBay. Quality not quite as good as original but hard to detect once fitted.




Cheers   Windy

P.S.    Did an explanation of removing door cards but can't find at the mo, will keep looking but it is dead easy.
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Post by Windychippy Wed Mar 07, 2018 9:43 pm

Hi Tony
Can't find the explanation so.   Remove all plastic dome caps by using the edge of a fine bladed filler knife, make sure they don't fly off never to be seen again Whistle1
Then remove all screws and cups. The inner door handle is easily passed through the door card.   Replacing is just the reverse.  It might pay you to purchase a small bag of 15/16 mm x 3.5mm flange head screws and use these instead of the countersunk screws that A/S use. This is because the countersunk screws can pull through the plastic cups when pressure is applied. IMO.   When I took my door cards off I noticed skimpy insulation so I topped it up with more up in stiles and in the rails.

Cheers Windy
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Post by Windychippy Wed Mar 07, 2018 10:30 pm

There are many available, I'd choose stainless steel.  ( Quoted from further up the post )


Now I'm no expert but, I recently used M8 galvanised bolts through my 150mm stainless steel hinges on the doors to my man cave.  After a short period I noticed that the lower bolts were corroding, some badly. This is I think called Galvanic corrosion. I removed all the bolts and replaced with stainless steel bolts all is now fine.
If you used Stainless steel RIVNUTS in the back door I wonder if something similar might happen as in contact with the mild steel holes in the door.
There are only 2 bolts through the top rail on my 200 DJ bike rack and I have not yet checked to see what they are made off, (but will) 


Hope I haven't opened up a can of worms here but it would be good to here from some experts perhaps on a new post all about Galvanic Corrosion etc. or has it already been done?


Cheers  Windy
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