Blown Air Modifications

Hi
    As you may have guessed I have just purchased an AS Gloucester with the Truma heater in front of the wardrobe ,it only has two blown air outlets one practically next to it in the bedroom and a fancy towel rail arrangement has any one attempted ,or have any idea's how to get some heat up to the front of the van
kind regards
Alan

Awaiting a response with interest. I find my Gloucester cold up in the front. External thermal screens do help a lot, but an outlet in the front would help enormously.

The towel rail does have a flap valve to direct flow out at the bottom or up to the rails.

You can buy the fittings and ducting to add more outlets, but I'm guessing that you would have already looked at that possibility Peter, so it can't be that simple?

When parked up, remember also to close fresh air vents in the cab area to stop outside cold air from entering and causing drafts. A simple thing, often overlooked.
It does help in cold weather.

Leighton.

Leighton.

I always set ours to 'Recirculate', which closes the vents.

meanchris wrote:You can buy the fittings and ducting to add more outlets, but I'm guessing that you would have already looked at that possibility Peter, so it can't be that simple?

Heater is on near side immediately behind the Hab door, with step recess, so no internal access route to the front area. As Peter Brown has not modified his Malvern (same layout), I guess there is no easy solution. 

PLOUGHLIN wrote:

meanchris wrote:You can buy the fittings and ducting to add more outlets, but I'm guessing that you would have already looked at that possibility Peter, so it can't be that simple?

Heater is on near side immediately behind the Hab door, with step recess, so no internal access route to the front area. As Peter Brown has not modified his Malvern (same layout), I guess there is no easy solution. 

That's interesting, as my R****o has a central O/S step recess instead of an external step, but also has a blown air outlet in each front bench.

I hadn't thought about how it gets there until now, but our layout has the combi heater on the N/S under the central sink/hob.
I'll have to have a delve.

meanchris wrote:I always set ours to 'Recirculate', which closes the vents.

If you have a Transit base vehicle, you must have the ignition on when switching to recirculate. This is because the diverter is electrically powered and changing the switch without the power being connected will not do anything.

meanchris wrote:

PLOUGHLIN wrote:

meanchris wrote:You can buy the fittings and ducting to add more outlets, but I'm guessing that you would have already looked at that possibility Peter, so it can't be that simple?

Heater is on near side immediately behind the Hab door, with step recess, so no internal access route to the front area. As Peter Brown has not modified his Malvern (same layout), I guess there is no easy solution. 

That's interesting, as my R****o has a central O/S step recess instead of an external step, but also has a blown air outlet in each front bench.

I hadn't thought about how it gets there until now, but our layout has the combi heater on the N/S under the central sink/hob.
I'll have to have a delve.

with the rear heater on the opposite side to the door its difficult in a van without a double floor, to get pipework to the front without the pipes traveliing outside/underneath the van....not desirable but it was how my old Bolero did it, with heavy insulation aded by me.....similar layout to the Gloucester.
the sensible thing is to have the heater on the opposite side to the door (as in the Rapido) and the pipes can remain inside the van.....but then again, what do MH designers know....they never actually use these vans, do they?

Please excuse me if I am talking a load of traddle.
On my Dorset/symbol whilst the recessed step is slightly different it does have a black plastic side to take it up to the false floor.
I found that the Dorset was cold up front due to the heater taking in air from this area 
It was a fairly simple job to take the plastic surround which allowed easy access to the false floor area. I worked out which joints, corrugated pipe and outlets required and added two  additional outlets by drilling holes using a hole saw.
I would have thought if you can get this plastic off around the step you are 70% there.
As I said I don't know your van so may not be possible on yours
David

Hi Everyone
    It is not a lot but I was thinking of adding an outlet at the side of the heater blowing air infront of the habitation door at I am not brave enough yet to cut large holes in the floor .Has the blower motor got any blanked off outlets and has anyone managed to take the wardrobe floor apart
regards
Alan

Has your Gloucester not got an outlet already at the heater side blowing across the door, mine has, as well as the one in the bed box and the bathroom outlet?

I suppose 'the world is waiting' for a motorhome conversion that sees blown air heating up near/in the cab area to mitigate the cold zone due to single glazing. Leighton's point is valid together with fitting exterior silver screen to offer more comfort during cold weather. However, with the mandatory ventilation surrounding skylights and windows together with droughts invading elsewhere, it can be an uphill struggle for some.

the simple 'secret' of a good Truma install is to site the heater as close to the centre of the van as possible, thus giving equal length pipe runs to all areas of thr van. This is one of Trumas prime installation instructions...

many installs use an under dinette (or seat box) location which can distribute much warm air to the cab area.

running the pipework to all locations is made far easier with vans with double floors. there is always a convenient route, but for those with single floors it takes a little more planning and placing the heater to the rear of (and on the same side as) the habitation door will cause problems in getting pipework to the front of the van.

for example, the Kingham, which has been discussed here, places the heater not only under the rear bed but as far back into the rear space as possible, making distance to the front even longer.
not only that, the heater then blocks off any possible decent external storage access...

i looked hard at a Kingham when they first came out and the heater siting was always going to compromise these two things...so i passed.

with the heater sited roughly amidships (or even a tad behind that, as mine is) its perfectly possible to get decent heat to the front of the van...

two tips...of ypu have the CP plus control panel, then make use of the HIGH fan setting (not available on the older systems) and dont be afraid to use a bit of gas (mixed mode is good) to get things warming up more quickly.

the Cp Plus panel is available as an upgrade to older models....

also, i guess it is 'possible' for the determined DIYer (or service centre) to relocate a Combi system....to acheive better results...the water and heating pipework is all push fit, gas and electrics are also reroutable.....

it just seems a shame that our converters seem to consider heating installs as afterthoughts and not a primary consideration of the whole design...

good luck to all hoping to get more from their systems...

PLOUGHLIN wrote:Has your Gloucester not got an outlet already at the heater side blowing across the door, mine has, as well as the one in the bed box and the bathroom outlet?

As does my Malvern. There is no false floor either.

bolero boy wrote:the simple 'secret' of a good Truma install is to site the heater as close to the centre of the van as possible, thus giving equal length pipe runs to all areas of thr van. This is one of Trumas prime installation instructions...

many installs use an under dinette (or seat box) location which can distribute much warm air to the cab area.

running the pipework to all locations is made far easier with vans with double floors. there is always a convenient route, but for those with single floors it takes a little more planning and placing the heater to the rear of (and on the same side as) the habitation door will cause problems in getting pipework to the front of the van.

for example, the Kingham, which has been discussed here, places the heater not only under the rear bed but as far back into the rear space as possible, making distance to the front even longer.
not only that, the heater then blocks off any possible decent external storage access...

i looked hard at a Kingham when they first came out and the heater siting was always going to compromise these two things...so i passed.

with the heater sited roughly amidships (or even a tad behind that, as mine is) its perfectly possible to get decent heat to the front of the van...

two tips...of ypu have the CP plus control panel, then make use of the HIGH fan setting (not available on the older systems) and dont be afraid to use a bit of gas (mixed mode is good) to get things warming up more quickly.

the Cp Plus panel is available as an upgrade to older models....

also, i guess it is 'possible' for the determined DIYer (or service centre) to relocate a Combi system....to acheive better results...the water and heating pipework is all push fit, gas and electrics are also reroutable.....

it just seems a shame that our converters seem to consider heating installs as afterthoughts and not a primary consideration of the whole design...

good luck to all hoping to get more from their systems...

None of the above is of any use to Gemdeco who has a completely different Truma installation. And Auto-sleeper designers do use motorhomes, I have been pitched with them several times!

PLOUGHLIN wrote:Has your Gloucester not got an outlet already at the heater side blowing across the door, mine has, as well as the one in the bed box and the bathroom outlet?

Just been thinking.......... 
- would it be possible to run and permanently fix a length of duct air hose through the near side bench seat with an inlet and an outlet at either end of the bench seat? 
If owners were happy to fit such a feature - then using a piece of flexible hose suitably made up to connect (push fit - just like a hoover hose) the wardrobe outlet to the newly installed bench seat inlet and thus you should have heat directed to the front section of the van. When not in use the connecting hose could be stored out of the way in a cupboard.
I know it sounds a bit Heath Robinson but with a bit of thought I think it could be made to look reasonably elegant and efficient. It would only be used to warm up the front of the vehicle when its very cold and whilst I agree it would impair exit and entry somewhat it could easily and quickly be disconnected (push fit into the outlets) when required.
As far as I can see all of the relevant bits necessary are available as spares on the Truma web site. Incidentally, looking at the Truma spares site I note that they do sell specially insulated ducting designed to be run outside/under the van floor - - its not cheap (£75 per length) but then all Truma bits are expensive but there again keeping warm is costly!
Just a thought!

Interesting mod. May not be room behind/under the drawer that takes up most of the width/depth of the underseat box.

PLOUGHLIN wrote:Interesting mod. May not be room behind/under the drawer that takes up most of the width/depth of the underseat box.

Ah ...a slight snag! 
I don't have a drawer in my underseat box - but could it be run higher up or along the back - above the drawer?

Maybe, but the drawer is quite deep?

PLOUGHLIN wrote:Maybe, but the drawer is quite deep?

Rear top of the drawer shaped to accommodate the duct pipe?

Liam wrote:

PLOUGHLIN wrote:Maybe, but the drawer is quite deep?

Rear top of the drawer shaped to accommodate the duct pipe?

Don't forget that the heater in Alans van is not a combi, I think the existing 3 vents are all it will manage effectively.

But the suggestion is to link the existing step outlet across to the front area. Could work, though thermal screens and a small fan/oil rad is probably simpler.

Peter Brown wrote:

Liam wrote:

PLOUGHLIN wrote:Maybe, but the drawer is quite deep?

Rear top of the drawer shaped to accommodate the duct pipe?

Don't forget that the heater in Alans van is not a combi, I think the existing 3 vents are all it will manage effectively.

I appreciate that Peter, but my suggestion was to sacrifice the door well outlet (one of the three) and run that to the front of the vehicle via the additional new ducting in the near side locker. 
I know that it would require a bit more effort to get the blown air down that length of pipe but perhaps trimming (i.e. partial closure) the remaining outlets would help?

I did anticipate the problem when ordering my van and had an additional 13A socket installed behind the drivers seat for an electric radiator.

I take Liams point about effectively extending the vent from the wardrobe to the rear of the passenger seat but as well as having to modify the drawer, it would cost valuable space in the compartments at each side of the drawer that could have been made to fit the boxes of 12 Reisiling I get from the Mosel.