Trumatic S3002 problems

Thanks both, We picked the van up today and spoke to the head technician who has been working on her. He explained it all in detail. We had been misinformed on the hand over when we bought her. It all makes sense now. The heater will get hotter on the left as during the blower setting, only part of the element is lit. When switching the heater to the centre position, we were told this is the off position, the blower switches off, the heater element kicks in fully and only lets out natural heat.......getting equally hot across the heater front.

Lots more very useful info regarding the settings etc.

So lets see if we get any problems now then.....................hopefully not.

Thanks for all the help. Hope you have a good holiday Peter B

That he couldn't answer as it hasn't tripped for him. Maybe the way were originally told how to use the heater, being wrong, was the cause????

After switching the blower switch to the centre dot, which we were originally told was the off position, the heater element heated up equally and the front of the heater was red hot all over. with the blower on, the element was only hot on the left. We will have to try over the weekend. Another little nugget that we were told wrong, was that on the main electronic board, above the hab door, four buttons, 'don't use the battery one' we were told. Yet if the van is hooked up, press the battery button and it will trickle charge both leisure and vehicle battery.

Lots of clarification needed for the last few posts but will have to wait till I can fire up the laptop and use a keyboard

shaunS wrote:After switching the blower switch to the centre dot, which we were originally told was the off position, the heater element heated up equally and the front of the heater was red hot all over. with the blower on, the element was only hot on the left.

My heater is the same. The blower is actually a 'sucker' fan. In the switch mid position the fan is off and on EHU the heater acts just like a conventional convection heater, hot air rising over 500-1000-2000w elements. When you flick the switch to either side of centre, this operates the fan which sucks air over the elements and out the back of the heater into duckting pipework. Depending where the shrouding is on the back of the heater, this will cool that part of the elements most, this has the effect of making one side of the heater appear cooler than the other.
Al.

shaunS wrote:After switching the blower switch to the centre dot, which we were originally told was the off position, the heater element heated up equally and the front of the heater was red hot all over. with the blower on, the element was only hot on the left.

The electric heating element is monitored by a thermostat that prevents it from overheating whatever other controls are in place.  The wall thermostat can be used to control the 'room' temperature on any of the three heat ratings with the fan switched off.  This is particularly useful for frost protection using the 500w option when the van is unoccupied in winter (although most on the forum use a small oil filled electric radiator for that).

The fan can be switched on/off independently of the heating element.  On manual it can be used the distribute air in hot weather or to speed heat the van when cold, in this position the control knob directly controls the speed of the fan.

The most effective form of heat management and distribution in the van (whether fuelled by electric or gas) is to have (as appropriate) the gas level control or the room thermostat at maximum and use the fan on auto.  In this case the position of the control knob controls the temperature, the system controlling the fan speed and the internal thermostats preventing overheating of the element/constant burning of gas.

shaunS wrote:Another little nugget that we were told wrong, was that on the main electronic board, above the hab door, four buttons, 'don't use the battery one' we were told. Yet if the van is hooked up, press the battery button and it will trickle charge both leisure and vehicle battery.

You will have a PSU 2007.

The 'battery' button connects the habitation circuitry to the vehicle battery, if in this instance the vehicle battery discharges to the point that it couldn't start the engine then the system disconnects and reconnects the leisure battery. The facility is designed as to keep you going with basic electrics if the leisure battery fails. If on hook up you select that switch option then the habitation charger is switched from the leisure battery to the vehicle battery. This is a very useful option when the van is not being used and you don't have a solar panel looking after the vehicle battery - every couple of weeks you can give the vehicle battery a few hours 'top up' charge.

For all systems except the Sargent EC325 the habitation load is always connected across the leisure (or vehicle) battery whilst being charged by the habitation charger but disconnected when being charged by the vehicle alternator (to prevent damage by the higher voltage). With the EC325, when connected to mains and the PSU switched on and independent 12v power supply is connected to the habitation circuitry and the charger connected to whichever battery is selected. The EC325 charger can operate at up to 18v and would damage habitation apparatus if connected.

PLOUGHLIN wrote:If you have the Sargent EC325 with built in charger, with the "battery button" when unlit the charger supplies the leisure battery and that is used to supply the Hab 12v system. When lit the charger supplies the vehicle battery and that is used for the Hab 12v system. Both batteries can only be charged together by the engine alternator.

You may have a different Sargent unit or a MES.

We have the Sargent PSU2007 and EC200.

Peter Brown wrote:

shaunS wrote:Another little nugget that we were told wrong, was that on the main electronic board, above the hab door, four buttons, 'don't use the battery one' we were told. Yet if the van is hooked up, press the battery button and it will trickle charge both leisure and vehicle battery.

You will have a PSU 2007.

The 'battery' button connects the habitation circuitry to the vehicle battery,  if in this instance the vehicle battery discharges to the point that it couldn't start the engine then the system disconnects and reconnects the leisure battery.  The facility is designed as to keep you going with basic electrics if the leisure battery fails.  If on hook up you select that switch option then the habitation charger is switched from the leisure battery to the vehicle battery.  This is a very useful option when the van is not being used and you don't have a solar panel looking after the vehicle battery - every couple of weeks you can give the vehicle battery a few hours 'top up' charge.

For all systems except the Sargent EC325 the habitation load is always connected across the leisure (or vehicle) battery whilst being charged by the habitation charger but disconnected when being charged by the vehicle alternator (to prevent damage by the higher voltage).  With the EC325, when connected to mains and the PSU switched on and independent 12v power supply is connected to the habitation circuitry and the charger connected to whichever battery is selected.  The EC325 charger can operate at up to 18v and would damage habitation apparatus if connected.

Yes Peter, ours is the PSU 2007 and an EC200. So when on hookup, only one of the batteries will be trickle charged. Pressing the battery switch just changes which battery you are charging, from default leisure to vehicle? What you say about when the vehicle is not in use for a while, is exactly what the service manager tols us. 
Thanks again to all for your invaluable advice. As we are complete newbs to this, its great to know that others are there to help when needed.

PLOUGHLIN wrote:But why is the breaker kicking out?

The original post was the trip occurring after output had been reduced at night time.
Assuming this was the 500 w setting why did it trip?

Regards


Micky

shaunS wrote:Hi Peter, you are correct, it is the circuit breaker/trip switch that is 10 A. It doesn't trip straight away. We put on the heater on 2000 setting on electricity only, no gas. The van warmed up nicely, although the front of the heater was hot to touch on the left, but not on the right. We turned down the heat as to have a nice ambient temp for sleeping. No other electric on at all apart from the fridge. Woke up in the early hours feeling really cold. The heater had tripped so reset. worked again until morning when we had the water heater on, then after a while both tripped. The dealer asked me to try at home on hookup which again after a few hours would trip. Yet they have supposedly tried it for hours in the workshop and it hasn't tripped????

Hi ,Still waiting for the answer to this trip!

Micky

You and me both Micky...............we will have to wait and see. The circuit breakers were tested and passed, but it was head against a brick wall time with the garage. 
If it still trips, then we will have to contact the garage again.

Shaun

Peter"s mention of using an oil filled radiator reminded me of last winter in Espana when we also used one one mainly over night. One morning a patch of oil was found on the carpet, which had leaked from this radiator. So that went into the bin and a new carpet was purchased. Perhaps a thick piece of old carpet or mat might be considered to stand it on, or perhaps a tea tray. Just thought our experience was worth a mention.  Ed.

I think the oil filled radiator is used by some member when van is empty on storage. Could be worthwhile taking precautions for a leak.

However i never have heated a van unoccupied. Ventilation is best. IMHO.

In Spain I find I never need heating on while in bed.

These Truma heaters should perform .The 500 setting should be OK at night for background heating.

Regards

Micky