Leisure Battery Change

I have to change the leisure battery on my Warwick Duo which has a solar panel. Is it just a matter of disconnecting the battery and fitting a new one or do I have to take any other actions whilst doing this?

Last time I did it on my last van ,a 16 duo, I covered the solar panel to block any charge to the battery, others will offer ideas too.
Boaby

Disconnect or cover the solar panel first. Unplug any EHU as well.

I have read that you should cover the panel in daylight, but to be honest I have disconnected mine several times and had no problems. But don't take my word as I might just have been lucky and got away with it.

I think it's the same as they say, turn everything off power wise before connecting to 240v, again never bothered and no problem to date. I am talking about a 2015 Duo, later models may have more sensitive electronics.

Richard

I changed mine last year and just covered the solar panel as others have said.

Same here, I covered the panel with an old rug when I changed my battery. 
I doubt it really matters on a dull day in the UK autumn though.
Al.

I'm in the same position and about the change the leisure battery. We have a fuse specifically labelled Leisure Battery. Should I take it out? I'll cover up the solar as per previous suggestions.

Hi I changed mine 3 weeks ago and only turned the ex500 off. Had no problem just keep red ( live wire) away from anything else. Kevin

kevjan wrote:Hi I changed mine 3 weeks ago and only turned the ex500 off. Had no problem just keep red ( live wire) away from anything else. Kevin

Mine controller is the EC328. Can't see anything to turn it off when it's not on EHU?

Obviously, caution is better than lack of caution, but the solar controller in the EC328 is a pretty simple device, and the user instructions don't make any statements about always having the battery connected. But I know that some - including the original controller in the EC328 - are dual-voltage (i.e. 12V or 24V operation), and some of those cannot correctly detect the system voltage with the battery not present (so in theory the voltage at the battery and/or load terminals could be significantly higher than 12V with the battery disconnected).

Perhaps I've been lucky, but I have disconnected the LB during the daytime on my EC328 many times and didn't have any issues.

Incidentally, if you want instructions on how to configure the built-in solar controller originally fitted to the EC328, do an Internet search for an EP Solar EPIPDB-COM controller - the one fitted is typically the 10A version. The user manual should be quite easy to find online.

I don’t have solar on the van but I’m surprised there isn’t a solar isolator switch to isolate the power from the panel, as we have on the house solar.

Not on the EC328 - the solar controller is just a sub-assembly, built into the housing of the power control unit. The external connections are directly to the panel, which by convention are not normally fused or switched on low-voltage solar systems.

For the information of anyone interested, the dual channel solar controller in the EC325 was an integral part of the Sargent circuitry not a sub assembly as in the EC328. The EC328 system performed better than the EC325 (that was adequate).

If you have a tracker, put it into Service mode or you'll get a phone call