Using corner steadies

As a caravan owner I was always advised to never use the corner steadies for levelling the van as that could have an adverse effect on the floor and chassis geometry. Now I have my first motorhome it has a long rear overhang hence for minor transverse levelling would it be Ok to use the steadies ? They clearly are far beefier than the caravans and have a direct fixing to the heavier duty van chassis. I use the drive on plastic ramps for levelling longitudally but wonder if the clearly heavier gauge van chassis would suffer any twisting using the steadies in this way ?

Exactly what Cymro said!

Smug answer - Took mine off too  and fitted an automatic hydraulic levelling system. arrive on site, push button on remote go and put kettle on! Want to go somewhere? - start engine, press button on remote to retract levelling feet & drive off.
LOST - 
1. about 35Kg of payload
2.  approx £5000 for supply and fitting

Put steadies in loft for when I sell the Bourton as dealer will not credit your PX with any additional value for added accessories. cost £1000 to transfer whole system from previous Stanton.

Worth every penny & would not be without it.

To OP, welcome to the forum and most people use ramps to level and steadies if rocking and rolling on your suspension bothers you.

Dennis

Wow Dennis, being level must be very high in your priorities to warrant that outlay.
I know it's each to their own, but so long as we're reasonably level fore and aft, we don't bother much side to side, just put the pillows on the high side and sleep the other way around..
Al.

First time out in a new motorhome (Swift) on a so-advertised level site it took around 15 mins of trying to get it to the top of the Milenco Quatro ramps. The rear suspension on the fiat / alko chassis was torsion bar, and consequently evevery time I got to the top of the ramps and applied the handbrake it would roll back on the torsion bars by the time I decided I was wasting my time and burning my clutch the van was only half way up the ramps and still so un-level that the fridge would not work!
Got it set as level as poss and the question arises “should we go somewhere?”  Not a chance if it takes that much stress on me and the poor clutch using the ramps.
Got back home and booked it in to SAP in Doncaster for the E&P self levellers.
These also cured the “do you HAVE to stomp up and down the motorhome all the time?” That it was sitting on its suspension was not a good enough reason for the boss. The Swift did not have teadies. 
Dennis

My friend who has an Adria always had problems with the fridge if not level, fitted jacks, and no more fridge problems. I guess it is because these vans have a very tall fridge and not so tilt tolerant

Exactly what Cymro has said.  

I found levelling side to side was more important than fore and aft.  When I used levelling wedges I sometimes found just one levelling wedge was sufficient to level things up roughy.  It might have applied some twist to the chassis but I think the suspension took this up.  I found raising the van with two wedges on one side to be quite difficult.  As for the rear steadies, I found them difficult to access due to the height of the bike rack so invariably didn't use them.  Now I have an automatic levelling system I don't have to bother with the steadies (which I have taken off) or the wedges which are now in the shed.  My system was £3,500, which is still expensive, but I'm glad I've got it.  I just hope like all these gadgets it doesn't let me down.  If it does, it will be back to the wedges!