New to us motorhome

We recently had our first trip in our Corinium,fantastic time apart from when travelling there was a horrible like squeak from the shelf above us,anybody else had this problem and how was it resolved.

Glenny54 wrote:We recently had our first trip in our Corinium,fantastic time apart from when travelling there was a horrible like squeak from the shelf above us,anybody else had this problem and how was it resolved.

On our first trip out the rattles and squeaks were the thing that amazed me the most.... I think you just have to get used to them

[quote="Glenny54"]We recently had our first trip in our Corinium,fantastic time apart from when travelling there was a horrible like squeak from the shelf above us,anybody else had this problem and how was it resolved[ /quote]

You are not alone....

https://www.autosleeper-ownersforum.com/t36570-corinium-duo?highlight=Corinium#324

Paulmold wrote:

Glenny54 wrote:We recently had our first trip in our Corinium,fantastic time apart from when travelling there was a horrible like squeak from the shelf above us,anybody else had this problem and how was it resolved[ /quote]

You are not alone....

https://www.autosleeper-ownersforum.com/t36570-corinium-duo?highlight=Corinium#324

I did pack the top edge of shelf with some cut down pipe lagging which seemed to help a bit,think I'll try some a bit thicker.

you will have to investigate some how, where the shelf or cabinet is rubbing against another surface. Either timber to timber or the van outer shell.
Squeaks are hard to track down. You usually find that pre cut profile sections made to fit various models are then custom fitted to individual vans and with slightly different tolerances to each van.
It's usually where these panels or cabinets are hand finished to fit and are slightly too tight a fit. Give it a good pull about by hand and see if you can reproduce the squeak. Some times if you "jump about a bit" , the movement of the floor or van suspension reproduces the area to look for. You will feel a little silly doing it but it will narrow down the search.
Good luck and hope this might help.

We also spent an interesting couple of sessions in local industrial park when we got our van, SWMBO drove up and down the park while I stood, sat and lay in the back identifying where most of the rattles and squeaks were coming from, combination of screw tightening. Felt pads, rubber strips and glue sorted nearly all of them.

Or a loose bracket or two.
I like the above idea but my co pilot will not go in the back while driving even at 10mph !!!!
So I have to do it by trial and error myself.

The silly kitchen towel holder attached to the inside of door under the sink was also a most annoying squeak on our Corinium ….. Now removed.



Niall

Double post … oops



Niall

Suppersready wrote:The silly kitchen towel holder attached to the inside of door under the sink was also a most annoying squeak on our Corinium ….. Now removed.



Niall

That was the first thing that went,,,the gaffer cut her finger on it 

I also had a horrendous racket from above the cab on my then new 2021 Corinium Duo, it was so bad it made driving it a real issue.  I spoke with Alan Curry at Auto sleeper who assured me it only happened on one or two a year!

I also spoke with the supplying dealer in Northampton who said that they had tried to sort out this noise in the past but had not been successful.

So I thought I would have a go over the Christmas holidays to fix it, which I have, however it was a not the easiest of jobs to do.

The issue is two fold, firstly there is nothing between the metal of the cab and the wood shelf in fact they were in so much contact on mine that you could quite clearly see sawdust where the two surfaces were rubbing.

Secondly the wood structure does not have enough fittings to secure it properly and those fixings it does have (under the brown covers) have been put in with a power screwdriver to such an extent that they are not actually doing much.

To fix the issues I removed the headlining, not too difficult but you do need to remove both grab handles, the overhead reading lights, the "crash bar" which covers the wood and cab and the windscreen blind upper section.  The rubber door seals also needed to be lifted slightly, once done the headlining can be removed and placed somewhere safe.

I then proceeded to use some high density foam strips which I wedged into all the gaps etc between the metal cab and wooden section, once I had done this I then used 3 tubes of decent silicon sealant to completely fill the void between the two surfaces.

I then carefully measured where the underside of the wooden section joins were and used used woodscrews to hold the shelf together much better than Auto Sleeper do, I also replaced all the screws under the brown covers with longer ones and tightened them by hand only.

After this was done and cured I took the van for a quick test drive and bliss no noise.  So I put it all back together again.

If you choose to go down the same route as I did be prepared to see many bodges that are done by the factory such as all the wiring etc for the rear camera just thrown in the gap between the headlining and cab, different length screws used in the same area, random blobs of sealant, unbelievable fixings to hold the blinds to the headlining the list just goes on and on.

All this on a mere £75K vehicle, unfortunately should I ever decide to change my van it would certainly not be for an Auto Sleeper which is a shame as the layout is why I bought it - only took me 7 years to be in a position to be able to buy what is my first motorhome.

Really all that is needed when being assembled is a properly made foam gasket that is fitted between the metal and wood, I doubt it would cost much and would cure most of the issues, of course you also need people that are impowered to make the thing in the first place.

That doesn't paint a very good picture of the present day workforce.
My van is now almost 18 years old, and a few years ago I had occasion to strip out most of the nearside cupboards and linings, and was amazed at the attention to detail of the build that would never normally be seen. Seams completely sealed, every fixing hole had a screw etc. Nothing at all has come adrift or peeled away on my van. 
Obviously something has gone seriously downhill at the factory in recent years.
I seem to think someone asked when was the golden age of AS, judging by threads on here, I'll stick my neck out and say the first decade of this century..
Al.

A/S have not heard of a cordless power drill with a clutch then?

I doubt it very much, one screw was actually broken, who ever had done this just left the broken screw in the trim piece and then fired another one in.

Below are some pictures of the "quality" product, the 1st picture shows where the metal cab was rubbing on the wood, the marks are from assembly - someone must have thought it was a bit close and tried to bend it out of the way without success as the whiteish dust is actually sawdust where the two surfaces have rubbed together.

The other two pictures show the total lack of pride in screwing the two side cover pieces in place, the one shows the two screws (one being broken off at the head) and the other a totally different screw length.

That is terrible workmanship on something that is very expensive. Makes me think buying an older one is a better option

Two irritating noises in our new van in 2014. A hard banging noise which came whenever we went round corners or roundabouts and a high pitched humming whenever we hit a particular speed. Both took ages to identify but the first one was a set of bike lock keys hanging in a locker and the second was 2 stainless steel eggcups rubbing together.

We sometimes get an annoying squeaking from the overcab blind when we travel with it up on sunny days but usually a few pokes sort it as we travel..

Otherwise all was very quiet from Day 1.  I recommend the Zebedee Mark 1 Noise Source Seeker: a long cardboard tube ( from foil or clingfilm for example), one end applied to passenger ear and the other end directed at possible sources of noise. Narrows the source remarkably quickly and you don’t have to get out of your seat.

Our van is 2012 and apart from the crapice oven which constantly needs "fettling" most of the other squeaks and rattles have now been eliminated. Don't worry it is normal and just takes a bit of time to get them sorted one by one! All our cupboards are lined with non slip rubber, doors have rubber stops on the inside and floor lockers are carpeted and with underlay first. Most problems were screws missing or not gripping or trim rubbing, solved with a little adjustment.
I think we were lucky and just about made it before the build quality started slipping, compared to others I have seen ours is pretty good.

Hi, Recently purchased a 2012 Worcester, after having a 20 year old Pollensa I couldn't believe how noisy and how many rattles it had in comparison. Just checked over the oven loose screws tightened, oven and grill doors sorted with catches and rubber on the inside of the doors. (obviously have to remove before using). Heat deflector plate wedged with a piece of wood. I think the main problem is that the cooker is over the rear wheels so it bounces more in that position. I think that a pair of ear defenders would do the trick.

Clubman wrote:Hi, Recently purchased a 2012 Worcester, after having a 20 year old Pollensa I couldn't believe how noisy and how many rattles it had in comparison. Just checked over the oven loose screws tightened, oven and grill doors sorted with catches and rubber on the inside of the doors. (obviously have to remove before using). Heat deflector plate wedged with a piece of wood. I think the main problem is that the cooker is over the rear wheels so it bounces more in that position. I think that a pair of ear defenders would do the trick.

Same van as us. The heat deflector plate on the crapice oven has been araldited slightly out, doesn't rattle now and like you we have additional clips on the oven door and put a piece of rubber in to tension it. I also took the door off and added two strong springs on the hinge mechanism so it can't bounce up and down.
You might find rattles are coming from the heat shield above the boiler, check it has enough screws in it, ours didn't! Another tip what tyre pressures are you running, too high and it will cause plenty of rattles, we run 55psi in the front and 65psi in the rear unless heavily loaded.

Hi, thank you for your info. I will check the plate over the boiler as you say it may not have enough screws. Any chance of a photo of the the springs you have attached to the oven door. 
It's annoying that we have to do these things especially for the prices we are paying for decent motorhomes these days.

Sure happy to help, will try to get you a picture later.
Basically the door hangs on two spiggots, the bottom one points upwards and the top one downwards. On mine you could lift the door up and down where the spiggots were too far apart. I removed the top one lifted the door off and put strong circular springs one on the bottom and one on the top then reattached the door tensioning the springs as I did so. It certainly stopped the up and down movement, I will try and get a picture anyway.

Thank you for that much appreciated. 
How do you cope with the beds we find them a bit small do you use single beds or the double bed? Are you bothered about how bright the blue lights are on the control panel and fridge it's a bit like Blackpool illuminations.

Herewith pic as promised although it is hard to capture it.

I have to admit to being perplexed about the bed size ours makes a bed 6 feet 1 inch by 7 feet, hardly small.Do the bed frames slide out the entire length of the benches on yours and do you have the extra infill cushions.
We have custom made memory foam toppers which sit on the benches permanently so can be layed in any direction when the bed is pulled out. Sleep with your head towards the rear door and the lights are not a problem. It may be when we ordered ours we asked for the extra pull outs so yours might be different.
Feel free to ask away about anything else.
We use the bed as a double and as singles in the latter case we just pull the frame out a little and drop the backs down behind.

Hi again, 
Thank you very much for your help. After looking at our oven today there is no up and down movement so fitting springs will not be necessary.
We have the standard size beds  which is only 4ft 2 ins wide which isn't really wide enough so I will take a look at altering ours to make a bigger bed like you have. We had a big double bed in our old Pollensa which was lovely and comfortable like yours is now. Hopefully I can get the runners etc to make the conversion. 
It's got to go into the dealers next week for a warranty repair on the solar system as it is not charging the habitation battery and showing an error on the solar controller. 
We love the layout of the motorhome but there is a few issues to get sorted out.
Hopefully get away soon with everything sorted. Patience is a virtue so they say!!