Problem fitting new rear tyres!

Hi all,
Greetings from sunny Devon, just had two new rear tyres fitted too the sigma, tyre fitter had problems getting the wheel off as the body skirt was to low,lucky we have rear air suspension fitted, but my questions are,
Has any one else had this problem ?
What the hell would have happened if I needed to change a wheel in the middle of no where.
I am wondering if the previous owners had a motor bike/car attached to the tow bar that was previously fitted and this has caused the rear springs to become flatter.
All comments and suggestions gratefully received.
Many thanks, Gary

I think you'll find that it's a simple design fault that lots of others have come across.
The body skirt was very low on some of the models at the time and if I remember correctly the body shell was considerably wider than the chassis, which made it more of a problem.
Hopefully you won't have to change the tyres for another 5 or 6 years. 

nuevoboy

As Nuevoboy says it's a problem because of the skirt mouldings which look nice but make changing a wheel nigh on impossible without a lot of effort, at the side of the road I don't think it would be at all possible as I understand you need two trolley jacks to lift it sufficiently - The newer models have very shallow skirts and are well clear of the wheels so obviously AS knew the earlier design wasn't great.

Lucky you have air suspension as the springs always sag eventually... they should be standard fittment by AutoSleepers on all coach built MH's considering the cost from new.

A tip Peter #1 got from AS and posted some time ago might help with tight skirt mouldings etc.

https://www.autosleeper-ownersforum.com/t17687-new-tyres-on-my-broadway#146430

Liam

The last time we had tyres on the Windsor the tyre company used the normal trolley jacks and then used air bag jacks to get the body up
We did check to see if the Airides would lift the body high enough and yes they would

 When tyres on the drive fitted new tyres to our Rienza he had the same problem. I keep a selection of blocks of wood for under the rear steadies. A couple of blocks on top of his jack and carefully lifted the van on the chassis near to the axle as just gave enough clearance to wiggle the wheel out. 
The Rienza has the  chassis from the Transit almost 3/4 of the way to the rear body so is strong enough to put a jack under. Not good practice but it did no harm. At the roadside this is not something I could do with the vehicle jack but hopefully the breakdown people will be able to sort this for me. 
 I jacked an old Bailey caravan up to change a wheel at the roadside. The owners other half opened the door to make a brew. Nice thought but it took two of us to shut the door when I had finished.

Hi all, 
Many thanks for all replies and suggestions.
Nice in a way its nit just our M.H.
Thanks again,Gary.

Sorry....., nit should be not.

Took mine in to get rear wheels check balances. Told the 'expert' at the tyre Co that you needed to use the official Jack point at the front of the rear spring or won't get wheel off. I got the 'I know what I am doing sonny' look as he jacked it on the rear axle. Couldn't get the wheel off  and then couldn't get a second jack under the correct place due trolley jack handle in way . So I strolled out trying not to look smug and said just put the wheel back on properly please and forget the balance .
PS it comes off quite easily if the correct jack point is used 

Boro tyres Scarborough  

gary humphries wrote:Hi all,
Greetings from sunny Devon, just had two new rear tyres fitted too the sigma, tyre fitter had problems getting the wheel off as the body skirt was to low,lucky we have rear air suspension fitted, but my questions are,
Has any one else had this problem ?
What the hell would have happened if I needed to change a wheel in the middle of no where.
I am wondering if the previous owners had a motor bike/car attached to the tow bar that was previously fitted and this has caused the rear springs to become flatter.
All comments and suggestions gratefully received.
Many thanks, Gary

It quite clearly says in coachbuilt AS handbooks "Jacking; Front and Rear - use the standard jacking points as per the base vehicle handbook. When changing a rear wheel raise the vehicle to the maximum extent of the jack. In order to clear the skirt when removing the wheel, tilt the bottom of the wheel under the vehicle and allow the top to fall outwards and clear of the hub. Reverse the procedure to refit." this works perfectly, but try telling a professional...........

 Sorry to steal youre thunder Peter but from my time at the roadside there are some coach build motorhomes and caravans that you cant get the wheels out from under the rear arches without lifting the body. I watched the fitter from Tyres on the Drive struggling before I offered to help. The rear axle fitted to the Rienza is the same as the  Transit 350 light trucks so the hubs are quite chunky leaving little room to shuffle a wheel and tyre from under the arch.
A challenge to any fitter is a front wheel change on a double decker bus at the roadside. No fancy air jacks just bottle jacks. They are so low you have to run the bus up on to a 6" wooden ramp to to get clearance under the axle to put a small jack under first then progress to a jack big enough to get the tyre clear of the floor. And to add to the fun its normally raining.

That said in the last 10 years over 3 different coachbuilts on Peugeot, Ford and Mercedes; if you follow the instruction it works without any messing about.