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Water Ingress X250 Scuttle

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Water Ingress X250 Scuttle   Empty Water Ingress X250 Scuttle

Post by moggyminor1966 Tue Dec 06, 2011 9:39 pm

Attached is a very useful link to a guide I have found relating to a fix for the scuttle water ingress problems on the X250 range.

Unfortunately it is in Italian so would appreciate it if any members who have a knowledge of Italian would be able to translate it and upload the English translation.

I am sure that it will prove to be a very useful guide.


http://www.pdfhost.net/index.php?Action=DownloadFile&id=78a1788242ee22fb812eff91f12c8084
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Water Ingress X250 Scuttle   Empty Re: Water Ingress X250 Scuttle

Post by CC Tue Dec 06, 2011 9:44 pm

Here you go Moggy, Consider the translation done..... Words are a bit hit and miss but legible

This document / text is posted here in good faith, it is the property of the Author and is therefore not created by ASOF

CC



How to avoid the entry of water ingress into the engine compartment Peugeot Boxer / Fiat x250

Required materials:

- Three plastic fittings radiator, on the one hand thread diameter. 10mm and the other for a seat
diam. internal mm. 8, (they are from any auto parts)
- Five feet of pipe from petrol (transparent or opaque) diam. internal mm. 8;
- Adhesive seal "E" 4x9 mm;
- An old brush wipers.
Equipment used:
- Drill driver;
- Hot glue gun;
- Gun x silicon;
- Jigsaw cutter pliers screwdrivers etc.
- Hands are used to working
First you need to create space to work removing the headlights, you have to do it:
- Remove the plastic half-moon above the headlights, you unscrew the two screws placed inside the
Then disengage the engine compartment plastic pulling up and rotating to the
windshield;
- Remove the two plastic below the lighthouse you unscrew the Phillips head screw located inside the engine compartment
(Only the other side are fixed pressure) then you drop the plastic by pulling them
under the outside leverage with a screwdriver. (I broke a coupling term but are
of good enough);
- Unscrew the 3 bolts 10 (1 and 2 above the lower horizontal vertical) that keep the lighthouse;
- Pull the headlight to release the clip at the top;
- Disconnect the electrical connector by first pulling the gray latch on the same place.
Once that space and put aside the pieces so as not to lose the screws above and inciamparcisi
we can start working.
First operation of air to the heat conveyor.
Remove the hood attached to the conveyor (10 screws)
Remove the plastic grille leaves para (2 screws)
Cut and / or filed down the plastic piece that fits right out of the network
Filing of a threaded fitting on the most up to the hole and cut slightly
the hexagon to make sure that this is not oozing from the conveyor
Secure the connection with the hot glue
Always with the hot glue to fix something (I used a piece of brush wipers) in
the shape of an invitation for water to the tube
Apply silicon well with black silicone all
When everything is very dry, reassemble the grid possibly enlarging the hole
Wash the fixed part of the conveyor with a nitro or aviation gasoline (also all
other parts before gluing anything);

According tell her plastic surgery drain water collected above the headlights
Cut the fillet of the two connectors were attached to leave 3mm hexagon (I
also cut a little 'the other party to avoid climbing up the lighthouse flex the ring;
Enlarging existing holes with a 10mm drill bit;
Glue the joints with a good glue for PVC, then everything Apply silicon;
When it is dry all the flared part of the link that comes up to prevent
ponding of water (use the drill bit by hand to remove the link does not) then
50-60 cm of tube to connect the strap securing it with a power cord and
fit the other end into the opening of the wheel.


Third intervention collector water under the windshield
thoroughly clean the conjunction of the two parties and silicone, if you want to insert the nozzle of the Silicon and silicone seal under the (little) all the parts in contact with the windshield.

Fourth action closing the bonnet
Thoroughly clean the side edges of the hood (from bottom) and the corresponding part of the lighthouse and
from the plastic half-moon.
Paste under the hood of the same well on a wire seal hood to "E" (located in
any hardware store)
Paste an equal headlights on doing so well to fit the two profiles.
An excess of zeal I added two pieces of adhesive foam to block even the two
corners of the bonnet.

Roberto (Author)

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Water Ingress X250 Scuttle   Empty Re: Water Ingress X250 Scuttle

Post by moggyminor1966 Tue Dec 06, 2011 9:50 pm

Thanks CC hopefully someone can provide a true translation as it is quite hard to follow especially if you have not done it before! I am sure there must be some Italians out there??? drinksallround
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Post by CC Tue Dec 06, 2011 10:29 pm

The only water I've noticed in ours since having it is the bonnet vent lets water in to the air intake shute, when you open the bonnet the shute splits into two sections as it opens in half and the water that pooled inside there then tips over the right side of the engine etc... I might just put in a drain hole and drain tube to help lose this safely but other than that can't see it really being that much of a problem shrugg

I certainly won't be taking all the headlights out like our friend Roberto discusses, as JDS has said in a previous post "I think far more is made of it on various forums than is really necessary" and after observing ours over the last few weeks I now tend to agree with this, to the point where I don't even think the engine cover is even necessary and as I've read elsewhere (think it was Zebedee on MHF's) I want to instantly see what's happening when I lift the bonnet, not cover it over so It's out of sight.

Take it you have the water tray & drain fitted in the center beneath your scuttle panel? This seems to be the weakest point for water ingress, why Peugeot chose to do this panel in two sections god only knows? Anyway, let us know how you get on smile!

CC

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