Dinitrol rustproofing

Following on from some other posts about Waxoyling / Dinitrol etc. I've bought a few cans of Dinotrol off the internet and plan to do this myself in the coming months. I would be interested to know anyone elses experience with this (I see from some other posts Mikejack has done this so would appreciate any advice from him or anyone else  )

Would be interested to know if people pressure washed / steamed it first? Removed wheels or kept on?

I have bought the RC900 rust converter which is supposed to convert any existing rust spots (and creep into any nooks & crannies) 

I am then planning to follow this up with the 1000 spray which is a clear wax that again creeps into any nooks and crannies and is supposed to offer good protection (similar to the 3125 cavity wax except clear)

Will finish off with the black 4941 wax.

I'm going to start with the wheel arches etc and see how that goes before attempting the full underside and door interiors / bonnet etc.

This guy below gives some good pointers but any more appreciated (specifically for a motorhome)

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We've wax treated all of our long-term vans since the early 80's and it has always preserved them far better than almost all others of the same model on the road - for example our Mk2 Transit A/S conversion was over 20 years old when we sold it, still in full running order with clean MOT sheet.

I've always washed the underside and wheel arches thoroughly with just a mains water jet - you don't really need to use anything more than that, as a small amount of (completely dry) dirt on the surfaces actually helps adhesion. If the weather is anything other than very warm, I would drive it about for a bit to drain any cavities and then leave it for at least a full day to dry - more if you can, as you really don't want to trap any water at the bottom of internal sections, and it can take quite a while to drain out and dry in some areas.

It's a quite a lot easier to do the wheel arches if you remove the wheels (and on some vehicles you don't have any choice as you have to remove the wheels to get the wheel arch liners out).

As I've said in other threads, you often don't need to do any jacking up to do the underside - just find a fairly tall kerb and park with two wheels up on it and you'll have no problems on most vans.

Once you're done and the wax has set, don't forget to go round and visually inspect any drainage holes/slots to make sure they are completely free of wax. If you block any, you're likely to create more rust problems than you solve...

Did mine when i first got it with waxoyl but noticed it drys up and peels off after a while so got the dinitrol 3125 and redone it. The dinitrol is quite fine so runs out of all the seams and gets in every where. I did not steam clean mine off as it was quite clean having only done 28k miles when i got it. If you do wash it then you will need to Make sure its well dry before putting the dinitrol on. You can get into most places with the extension tubes and pull any bungs out of the sills and places like that so you can get the pipe in.Or you can strip the door cards off and get it all in the hard to reach places. And while they are off you can put some silver bubble insulation behind the door cards to give the cab a bit more insulation.

Mike

Thanks for the info/advice. 

Will try this in the coming months, if the wheel arches are easy enough I may attempt the whole chassis myself rather than paying someone to do it!