Adjusting pitch on a Thule/omnistore awning

Hi Don, it was great to meet you and share views and experiences, one to one. I am interested in the Truma air con, perhaps if we meet some time you may allow me to peruse it?

Similar to an earlier post I just wind my awning out, hope for the best, and support it as soon as I can. Ground level obviously plays it's hand here too.

PS I mentioned my height as much for light heartedness, as for consideration by others...

Best wishes, Barry.

I have just come across this thread from 2014.  When Auto-Sleepers fitted the Thule Omnistor 6200 awning on my 2019 Nuevo they did not fit any allen bolts and washers which are used to adjust the awning's pitch angle (see Omnistor 6200 instructions for pitch angle).  As a result, the fitting is pushed to its highest position which is for a low pitch angle whereas we all have a high pitch angle due to the height of our motorhomes.  Thule believe this is causing a Thule tension rafter I have recently fitted to the centre of my awning to damage the awning material at the cassette end.  Before I take this up with Auto-Sleepers, I would be most grateful if some of you could check your Omnistor 6200 awning and report back if the allen adjusting bolts are fitted and if they are with how many washers?

The bolts were not fitted to my 2016 WXL 6200 awning resulting in it dropping to low and catching the side door , I fitted bolts I found in my garage spares bin

FreelanderUK wrote:The bolts were not fitted to my 2016 WXL 6200 awning resulting in it dropping to low and catching the side door , I fitted bolts I found in my garage spares bin

Thanks.  That's interesting.  In the absence of bolts gravity may have caused yours to drop down but in my case the tension rafter may have had the opposite effect and pushed it up.  Either way, bolts should have been fitted by A-S to stop the pitch from changing after they had set it at the correct level.

FreelanderUK wrote:The bolts were not fitted to my 2016 WXL 6200 awning resulting in it dropping to low and catching the side door , I fitted bolts I found in my garage spares bin

Chris, when you say ‘catching the side door’, do you mean unwinding it with the side sliding door open?

I soon realised that I had to unwind the canopy out with the sliding door closed otherwise it would catch at the top. Once opened about 50cm all was good.
Sorry if I’ve misunderstood the thread.

Dbvwt wrote:

FreelanderUK wrote:The bolts were not fitted to my 2016 WXL 6200 awning resulting in it dropping to low and catching the side door , I fitted bolts I found in my garage spares bin

Chris, when you say ‘catching the side door’, do you mean unwinding it with the side sliding door open?

I soon realised that I had to unwind the canopy out with the sliding door closed otherwise it would catch at the top. Once opened about 50cm all was good.
Sorry if I’ve misunderstood the thread.

Yes when the side door was open but now with the bolts fitted I can wind out the awning with the door in the open postion

That is great news, thanks.
Off for the annual family week on the South coast tomorrow (not in the van) so will investigate when back 

It seems that some dealers/converters fit the pitch control screws (allen headed bolts with spacer washers fitted to the two folding rafter blocks in the awning cassette) and some don't and some like Auto-Sleepers sometimes fit them and sometimes don't.  Having looked more closely at my awning, which doesn't have the pitch control screws and has a high pitch angle, on the last turn of the winder handle the tops of the two folding rafter blocks are pulled back in their slot which raises the folding rafters to a low pitch angle position.  I don't believe this is intentional but it doesn't really matter as the rafters are already folded in.  When the awning is rolled out the weight of the folding rafters before the legs are put down causes the top of the blocks to move forward in their slot and the folding rafters to drop down to their high pitch angle position.  When a Thule tension rafter is then fitted, it forces the blocks back into their low pitch angle setting.  This could stress the awning if the awning legs are not extended enough and if a central tension rafter is fitted, as in my case, it damages the awning material at the cassette end of the tension rafter.  Further damage is done when the tension rafter is removed and attempts are made to wind the awning back in, as the blocks are still in their low pitch angle position.  My advice to anyone fitting a tension rafter, which by the way are quite effective, is to ensure that the awning's pitch control screws are fitted and correctly adjusted.

Caraman wrote:It seems that some dealers/converters fit the pitch control screws (allen headed bolts with spacer washers fitted to the two folding rafter blocks in the awning cassette) and some don't and some like Auto-Sleepers sometimes fit them and sometimes don't.  Having looked more closely at my awning, which doesn't have the pitch control screws and has a high pitch angle, on the last turn of the winder handle the tops of the two folding rafter blocks are pulled back in their slot which raises the folding rafters to a low pitch angle position.  I don't believe this is intentional but it doesn't really matter as the rafters are already folded in.  When the awning is rolled out the weight of the folding rafters before the legs are put down causes the top of the blocks to move forward in their slot and the folding rafters to drop down to their high pitch angle position.  When a Thule tension rafter is then fitted, it forces the blocks back into their low pitch angle setting.  This could stress the awning if the awning legs are not extended enough and if a central tension rafter is fitted, as in my case, it damages the awning material at the cassette end of the tension rafter.  Further damage is done when the tension rafter is removed and attempts are made to wind the awning back in, as the blocks are still in their low pitch angle position.  My advice to anyone fitting a tension rafter, which by the way are quite effective, is to ensure that the awning's pitch control screws are fitted and correctly adjusted.

Following the advice from Thule Support I received a complementary set of pitch control screws from them in the post yesterday - all the way from Belgium.  Having fitted them I can now see what they do and don't do and they haven't really helped with my problem.  All they do is raise the height of the folding rafters - the fewer the washers the higher they go.  They only lock the tops of the folding rafter blocks in one position if no washers are fitted and that results in the rafters sticking out at 90 degrees to the side of the van which is clearly no good.  Having seen videos and photos of my awning Thule Support now believe that the problem lies with what they call a Support Bar that runs the length of the awning cassette and as far as I can see helps guide the fabric back onto its roll.  On the Omnistor 6200 it's made of PVC and in my case seems to have twisted so that the top of the centrally mounted inner tension rafter socket that is stuck to it catches on the fabric when it is initially rolled in.  I am hoping this will be rectified under warranty.

Caraman wrote:My advice to anyone fitting a tension rafter, which by the way are quite effective, is to ensure that the awning's pitch control screws are fitted and correctly adjusted.

Hi Caraman - haven't looked at the pitch control yet but I will next time out. Same you are having problems with the rafter. I've found mine really make the awning feel much sturdier, and when supported by the storm straps the whole structure feels very stable. The rafters help pull the fabric tighter too, reducing 'wind flap' and noise.

I haven't notice any damage to mine so hopefully you have found the issue and can get it resolved.....

On the old Autotrail I had the front awning panel bowed as we used to connect an awning to the beading channel, I eventually stopped doing this and fitted a aluminium rail underneath

gpilky wrote:

Caraman wrote:My advice to anyone fitting a tension rafter, which by the way are quite effective, is to ensure that the awning's pitch control screws are fitted and correctly adjusted.

Hi Caraman - haven't looked at the pitch control yet but I will next time out. Same you are having problems with the rafter. I've found mine really make the awning feel much sturdier, and when supported by the storm straps the whole structure feels very stable. The rafters help pull the fabric tighter too, reducing 'wind flap' and noise.

I haven't notice any damage to mine so hopefully you have found the issue and can get it resolved.....

I deliberated whether I should fit one rafter centrally or two, one each side using the existing sockets.  I chose the single rafter because Thule said it would be fine, it was half the cost and there was less to store and fit.  On the only occasion I have used it, it was very effective.  I have had to stop using it and the awning now because of the damage to the awning fabric caused by the tension rafter's inner socket which is stuck in place.  I may get some resolution when I go to Willersey next week.  I don't think there would have been a problem if I had chosen two rafters, one each side, which I guess is what you have.

Update on the above - Willersey looked at the problem and said they only fit ready assembled Thule awnings; they don't repair them.  If an awning needs repair its a matter for Thule.  They referred me to the UK Thule account manager/sales director who I have just spoken to.  He advises against fitting a single tension rafter in the centre of a 3 metre awning (rather than two - one on each side) even though Thule Support in Belgium (where the awning is manufactured) has repeatedly told me that one can be fitted and features a single rafter being used in its advertising literature.  Fortunately my problems started and were reported to Thule Support before the awning's 2 year warranty had expired.  So the way forward is for spares for my 6200 (which will be 6300 spares and include a stronger alloy support bar to replace the 6200's PVC support bar and a new awning roll) are delivered to Willersey which the sales director himself will eventually fit, or, at my suggestion the 6200 (which is no longer manufactured) is replaced with a 6300 whose spring loaded folding rafters can be braced to allow the awning to be better tensioned, thus obviating the need for a tension rafter.  There is more water to flow under the bridge on this yet but my advice to anyone contemplating fitting a tension rafter is to fit two, one on each side, and its got nothing to do with the pitch control screws or their lack of them.

I found on the Autotrail when I used the centre rafter and the weather was warm in used to stretch the awning fabric and once the rafter was removed I used to have like a ridge down the center, it took many months before this started to go, never used the center rafter again

FreelanderUK wrote:I found on the Autotrail when I used the centre rafter and the weather was warm in used to stretch the awning fabric and once the rafter was removed I used to have like a ridge down the center, it took many months before this started to go, never used the center rafter again

I've read about the stretching but I think that's to do with a 3-part arched rafter that used to be fitted whose arch lifted the centre of the awning, presumably after it had been tensioned against the spring-loaded folding rafters.  This type of rafter is referred to in my 6200's installation/user instruction but it is no longer available/supplied.  According to Thule, the G2 tension rafter has replaced it which is a 2-part rigid/straight pole against which the awning pulls when it is tensioned.  Thule has said there should be no substantial contact between the awning fabric and the G2 tension rafter which there is on mine at the cassette end which is stretching the fabric but the main concern is the damage being done by its socket which is stuck onto the PVC support bar.  I have just removed it with a sharp Stanley blade and some solvent so I can now start using the awning again but not with the central tension rafter fitted.  My PVC support bar has 4 plastic/metal retaining clips.  The two centre ones are clearly not seated properly which is part pf the problem.  There is also another problem which is that the tension rafter's outer socket which is screwed to the centre of the awning rail fouls on the spring loaded folding rafters when the awning is fully rolled in.  Thule Support in Belgium recommended moving the folding rafters 1 or 2 cm further apart, which looks like a simple job but the UK sales manager advised me against doing it as it can take hours to get the adjustment right so that awning retracts fully and equally on both sides.

ajrm wrote:Hi Don
I'd appreciate if you could post the information. I'm 5'11' and still can't read it till its almost 2 metres out!
Allan

Should have gone to Specsavers?

Finally got round to investigating my canopy which slightly catches if you were to unwind it with the sliding door open.
From reading the thread would I be correct in thinking that I need to add one (or more) washers to the large bolt?
Excuse the poor picture.

Hi, adjusted mine last week to cure the same problem.Washers dont go on the large bolt in your picture, they fit into a tapped hole under the adjacent white plastic cover.You should have a pack with 2 small bolts and 8 washers.The instructions with mine said 2 washers for Boxer,fiat and Citroen which worked well.To fit easily I found the awning needed to be partly out and horizontal with no slope.Good luck,Tony.

Dbvwt wrote:Finally got round to investigating my canopy which slightly catches if you were to unwind it with the sliding door open.
From reading the thread would I be correct in thinking that I need to add one (or more) washers to the large bolt?
Excuse the poor picture.

Just at the hospital with the wife at the moment but will post photos this evening where I placed by bolts , no washers used on mine

Thank you both, rain stopped play today!

Sorry I did use something to pack out the bolt ,I used a nut and a washer to get the desired lift so I could open the awning with the door open, see photos of where I put the bolt , the white cover pulls of and the 2 threaded holes are under it ,this was done to both brackets

Thanks Chris, great help 

Worth checking in the folder of bumff that came with the vehicle,thats where I found my my pack of  bolts and washers.If not they are available from Thule.

Update… I’ve been away since my post last week so I’ve only just adjusted my canopy.
I think mine must be different to yours although the principle is the same. There is no white cover, just a single grub screw at each end as you can see in the picture. Simply screwing them in 3/4 of a turn with an Allen key has raised the canopy sufficient to clear the door. No washers were fitted or needed.