Testing for 12v current drain
4 posters
The Auto-Sleeper Motorhome Owners Forum (ASOF) :: Auto-Sleeper Motorhome Forums :: Auto-Sleeper "Coachbuilt Motorhomes" Forum
Page 1 of 1
Testing for 12v current drain
I want to see if I've got a continuous drain on the habitation 12v. I assume I can do this by disconnecting the battery from one of its terminals and using an ammeter between the battery terminal and the disconnected wire. Does it matter whether I disconnect the positive or negative?
Also I've not been able to locate a fuse on the 30w solar panel (factory standard fit) - any ideas about where it will be? It's on 2012 Nuevo ES.
Also I've not been able to locate a fuse on the 30w solar panel (factory standard fit) - any ideas about where it will be? It's on 2012 Nuevo ES.
Billy Ruffian- Donator
-
Posts : 290
Joined : 2011-10-25
Member Age : 74
Location : Chalford, Gloucestershire
Auto-Sleeper Model : Nuevo 2 ES
Vehicle Year : 2012
Re: Testing for 12v current drain
Hi
Yes - you assume correctly - and you can use either terminal (whichever is more convenient).
Don't forget to change the meter lead back to the voltage terminal immediately afterwards to avoid the classic mistake of inadvertently connecting the meter across 12V with the leads in the current socket!
Brod
Billy Ruffian wrote: I assume I can do this by disconnecting the battery from one of its terminals and using an ammeter between the battery terminal and the disconnected wire. Does it matter whether I disconnect the positive or negative?
Yes - you assume correctly - and you can use either terminal (whichever is more convenient).
Don't forget to change the meter lead back to the voltage terminal immediately afterwards to avoid the classic mistake of inadvertently connecting the meter across 12V with the leads in the current socket!
Brod
brodco- Donator
-
Posts : 1255
Joined : 2012-07-30
Member Age : 69
Location : Worthing
Auto-Sleeper Model : Duetto
Vehicle Year : 1997
Re: Testing for 12v current drain
Who would do such a stupid thing?brodco wrote:
Don't forget to change the meter lead back to the voltage terminal immediately afterwards to avoid the classic mistake of inadvertently connecting the meter across 12V with the leads in the current socket!
Brod
Oh yes, I remember, me.
dbroada- Donator
-
Posts : 1957
Joined : 2015-10-25
Member Age : 70
Location : Surrey
Auto-Sleeper Model : Nuevo EK (Stolen)
Vehicle Year : 2016
Re: Testing for 12v current drain
DONT do this on the main vehicle battery. The multimeter will usually take a max of 10A and if you, say, open an electric window that will draw a much larger current.
For the habitation battery, make sure your battery charger is off. There is no fuse for the solar panel, you need to unplug it from the Sargent PSU.
Elsewhere on the forum can be found information for ammeters designed to plug into blade fuses that are available from Maplins and a multimeter with a none-intrusive loop that can measure current safely. If you can't find them, I can find the details later today.
For the habitation battery, make sure your battery charger is off. There is no fuse for the solar panel, you need to unplug it from the Sargent PSU.
Elsewhere on the forum can be found information for ammeters designed to plug into blade fuses that are available from Maplins and a multimeter with a none-intrusive loop that can measure current safely. If you can't find them, I can find the details later today.
_________________
Peter #1
Peter Brown- Donator
-
Posts : 10592
Joined : 2012-11-10
Member Age : 72
Location : Staffs
Auto-Sleeper Model : Broadway EB
Vehicle Year : 2016
Re: Testing for 12v current drain
Hi Peter
Thanks for the warning about the engine battery. I can't find the links so if you could have a look for them I'd be greatful
Thanks for the warning about the engine battery. I can't find the links so if you could have a look for them I'd be greatful
Billy Ruffian- Donator
-
Posts : 290
Joined : 2011-10-25
Member Age : 74
Location : Chalford, Gloucestershire
Auto-Sleeper Model : Nuevo 2 ES
Vehicle Year : 2012
Peter Brown- Donator
-
Posts : 10592
Joined : 2012-11-10
Member Age : 72
Location : Staffs
Auto-Sleeper Model : Broadway EB
Vehicle Year : 2016
Re: Testing for 12v current drain
Many thanks Peter
Billy Ruffian- Donator
-
Posts : 290
Joined : 2011-10-25
Member Age : 74
Location : Chalford, Gloucestershire
Auto-Sleeper Model : Nuevo 2 ES
Vehicle Year : 2012
Re: Testing for 12v current drain
Hi
The original question was about the leisure battery but you can use the same technique on the engine battery if you just want to measure the parasitic drain. I can’t think why you would open an electric window or (switch on anything else for that matter) while you were measuring current drain.
You'd hope it would be obvious, never the less just to be on the safe side it’s worth making the point that any high current equipment should be turned off and there’s no point in measuring the current drain while the battery is charging. Normally you get a clue if there is any significant unknown drain because there is a spark when you disconnect / connect the battery terminal.
I agree that a clamp meter is excellent if you want to measure current on a regular basis but I’m not sure it’s worth the expense if you only want to measure low currents occasionally. If you’re worried about it you can always put a fast blow 10A fuse in series with the meter lead (or buy a set of fused meter leads). From the safety point of view it's a good idea to do that on an un-fused meter anyway.
It wouldn’t be so bad if I’d only done it once! Problem is I tend to put the meter back in the case with the lead still in the current socket. Next time – well it’s another ten quid fuse!
Brod
Peter Brown wrote:DONT do this on the main vehicle battery. The multimeter will usually take a max of 10A and if you, say, open an electric window that will draw a much larger current.
The original question was about the leisure battery but you can use the same technique on the engine battery if you just want to measure the parasitic drain. I can’t think why you would open an electric window or (switch on anything else for that matter) while you were measuring current drain.
You'd hope it would be obvious, never the less just to be on the safe side it’s worth making the point that any high current equipment should be turned off and there’s no point in measuring the current drain while the battery is charging. Normally you get a clue if there is any significant unknown drain because there is a spark when you disconnect / connect the battery terminal.
I agree that a clamp meter is excellent if you want to measure current on a regular basis but I’m not sure it’s worth the expense if you only want to measure low currents occasionally. If you’re worried about it you can always put a fast blow 10A fuse in series with the meter lead (or buy a set of fused meter leads). From the safety point of view it's a good idea to do that on an un-fused meter anyway.
dbroada wrote:Who would do such a stupid thing?brodco wrote:
Don't forget to change the meter lead back to the voltage terminal immediately afterwards to avoid the classic mistake of inadvertently connecting the meter across 12V with the leads in the current socket!
Oh yes, I remember, me.
It wouldn’t be so bad if I’d only done it once! Problem is I tend to put the meter back in the case with the lead still in the current socket. Next time – well it’s another ten quid fuse!
Brod
brodco- Donator
-
Posts : 1255
Joined : 2012-07-30
Member Age : 69
Location : Worthing
Auto-Sleeper Model : Duetto
Vehicle Year : 1997
Re: Testing for 12v current drain
brodco wrote:I can’t think why you would open an electric window or (switch on anything else for that matter) while you were measuring current drain.
You'd hope it would be obvious, never the less just to be on the safe side it’s worth making the point that any high current equipment should be turned off
Brod
I don't disagree with the points Brod makes but....
I regularly lock/unlock the van just by bending over with the keys in my pocket - I reckon that would pop a 10A fuse. Not everyone has the concept of how large the currents can be in vehicle 12v circuitry and we've no idea who is going to read these posts.
_________________
Peter #1
Peter Brown- Donator
-
Posts : 10592
Joined : 2012-11-10
Member Age : 72
Location : Staffs
Auto-Sleeper Model : Broadway EB
Vehicle Year : 2016
Re: Testing for 12v current drain
Thanks for all the responses. I bought the clamp meter suggested by Peter and sure enough when I switch on the control panel there is a 0.3 amp current through the battery leads. Doesn't sound much but in 24 hours that's 7 amps. I can't find anything on in the van and as I spend a lot of time off 240v its very relevant to me.
Do all Nuevos have a current draw like this?
Do all Nuevos have a current draw like this?
Billy Ruffian- Donator
-
Posts : 290
Joined : 2011-10-25
Member Age : 74
Location : Chalford, Gloucestershire
Auto-Sleeper Model : Nuevo 2 ES
Vehicle Year : 2012
Re: Testing for 12v current drain
I would think that 300 MA is normal. There is the power used by the control panel and PSU and a permanent supply to the circuit board in the fridge. If yo have Whale fresh water fill system, that will also draw a little current.
_________________
Peter #1
Peter Brown- Donator
-
Posts : 10592
Joined : 2012-11-10
Member Age : 72
Location : Staffs
Auto-Sleeper Model : Broadway EB
Vehicle Year : 2016
Similar topics
» Corrugated drain pipe adapter to drain valve
» WASTE WATER DRAINING
» External Drain Tap for main water tank.
» Adrian Flux - Current Situation
» battery drain
» WASTE WATER DRAINING
» External Drain Tap for main water tank.
» Adrian Flux - Current Situation
» battery drain
The Auto-Sleeper Motorhome Owners Forum (ASOF) :: Auto-Sleeper Motorhome Forums :: Auto-Sleeper "Coachbuilt Motorhomes" Forum
Page 1 of 1
Permissions in this forum:
You cannot reply to topics in this forum